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	<updated>2026-09-22T18:25:17Z</updated>
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	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Nelson_Sauvin&amp;diff=364</id>
		<title>Nelson Sauvin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Nelson_Sauvin&amp;diff=364"/>
		<updated>2026-07-27T08:21:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: /* Notes */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;Notes on &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson Sauvin&#039;&#039;&#039; gathered automatically from across the wiki. Each heading links back to the exact section it came from&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hazy IPA#Hops misc|Hazy IPA: Hops misc]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Evan - 165 coolpool. Don’t go over &#039;&#039;&#039;1lb/bbl in w.pool&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Kelsey - also &#039;&#039;&#039;1lb/bbl&#039;&#039;&#039; due to constrictions &lt;br /&gt;
* All of them try to do at &#039;&#039;&#039;10ibu bittering charge&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
* Kelsey - they do &#039;&#039;&#039;“dip hop” with flowables&#039;&#039;&#039;. But &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;be careful&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; cause you have a stratified hot layer on top. Through experiments they found that as soon as the wort hits the manway (you can feel the heat) they bump for 30 seconds with 20psi and that mixes everything well (3/4-1bbl of hot out of 15bbl batch). &lt;br /&gt;
* 75% &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; 25% &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; is good&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Malt Bills]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses a mix of Pilsners&lt;br /&gt;
* Likes gambrinus Pilsner cause it’s so lean &lt;br /&gt;
* Some malts and hops match well. Nelson matches gambrinus cause it’s so lean, but it’s too lean for competition beers (they’ve gotten knocked for it). [[NZ hops]] match it so well&lt;br /&gt;
* Rahr is good cause has more “shoulders” &lt;br /&gt;
* PNW doesnt pop as much with gambrinus&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hops#CBB 270 - sapwood|Hops: CBB 270 - sapwood]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Hops dry hopped at a lower ph have a generic hoppines but using more potent hops like Nelson or [[Riwaka|riwaka]] can stand up to it more&lt;br /&gt;
*  Dry hop sub 40 degrees F (they started warmer but studies show warmer pulls out stuff like myrcene)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hops#Favorite hop combos:|Hops: Favorite hop combos:]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Riwaka]] + [[Rakau]] (50/50)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Citra]] + Nelson&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Thiols#Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA|Thiols: Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 2-Row Malt for Base, 25% all wheat, incl. high protein red wheat from Mecca Grade.  Mash Hopping with US [[Cascade]] Hops&lt;br /&gt;
* Whirlpool at 175, 2 Kg of [[Idaho 7]] Full Spectrum Plasma &amp;amp; 0.5 lbs. / bbl [[Simcoe]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Ferment with Tropics yeast at 68 deg.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry Hop 5 lbs / bbl with blend of [[Mosaic]], [[Citra]] Cryo, Waimea &amp;amp; Nelson hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Thiols#&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Incorporating Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpenes in Recipes&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;|Thiols: &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Incorporating Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpenes in Recipes&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Results from VB show us that Thiols are only part of the story. Must take into account:&lt;br /&gt;
* Presence of Monoterpene Alcohols: Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol&lt;br /&gt;
* Ester compounds found in hops like 2MIB&lt;br /&gt;
* Knowing Free Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpene Alcohol Concentrations, a brewer can extrapolate when planning dry hops.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 Nelson hops / bbl = 1300 ng/L of potential 3S4MP if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 [[Sabro]] Cryo hops / bbl = 497.84 ppm of potential Geraniol if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* Thinking about how much ”special sauce” could be going into your DH, rather than a blind lbs / bbl benchmark.&lt;br /&gt;
* Establish Odor Activity Values for various compounds, then determine how to get there with hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop combos#US|Hop combos: US]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* CBB Hazy now&#039;&#039;&#039;:&#039;&#039;&#039; 75% &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; 25% &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; is good&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop combos#NZ|Hop combos: NZ]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Sorachi Ace|Sorachi]] ace and Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; combo, I don’t recall where that combo was recommended&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson/[[Riwaka]]/[[Mosaic]]/[[Simcoe]] cryo&#039;&#039;&#039;  Was a fun one&lt;br /&gt;
* Mosaic simcoe only in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop was even split (4.4lb/bbl so 1.2lb/bbl each)&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Hoppy Lager - R:&#039;&#039;&#039; We’ve done the same base hoppy lager a few times and switched up the hop combos. Favorite so far was &#039;&#039;&#039;Mandarina/Nelson/[[Nectaron]]&#039;&#039;&#039;. All 3 in the dry hop. Nelson/Necataron at a 170 degree whirlpool.&lt;br /&gt;
* Used it with &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Mosaic]], [[Talus]], Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; and got a real tropical coconut vibe. &lt;br /&gt;
* Used it with &#039;&#039;&#039;Kohatu and [[Wai-iti]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and it&#039;s all pineapple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[West Coast Pilsner#hops|West Coast Pilsner: hops]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)ops: sam- start with noble in the boil, get that traditional German flavor as a bottom layer. &#039;&#039;&#039;Mandarin and melon&#039;&#039;&#039; they really like (new German hops) [[Spalt|spalt]] select in boil&#039;&#039;&#039;. [[Simcoe]]&#039;&#039;&#039; is good on these beers, always tries to get some of that. And &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; is good with lager ferms. He’s a little more careful with [[Mosaic|mosaic]]. Their core wcpils is &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; hot side, dry hop with &#039;&#039;&#039;mosaic/nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;. They save the nobles for Italian Pilsners&lt;br /&gt;
* Bob - low alpha hops on hot side, recently noble heritage but US grown, instead of 1lb of high alpha they use 3lb low alpha cause that high vegetal matter gives it a little weight and structure. Cold side- lager kicks more sulfur for sure. Can play well or not. Bright tropical high tone citrus zest hops play well with sulfur; &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]], [[Mosaic|mosaic]], Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;. Maybe those old school hops help build thiol stuff that works well with the sulfur in the lager yeast. They do 69/30/10 and whirlpool to build layers of texture. The varietals they like are Adina, super [[Saaz|saaz]] f/michigan, they like floral delicate citrus and not so much herbal, Crosby [[Sterling|sterling]],&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Hops|Podcasts: Oregon: Hops]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Simcoe]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039; as base&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039;: works best at &#039;&#039;&#039;20% or less&#039;&#039;&#039;, adds some woody notes&lt;br /&gt;
** Can be overdone—best used in a mix&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Nectaron]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; as top notes&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;A little [[Mosaic]]&#039;&#039;&#039; to tie it together&lt;br /&gt;
* NZ hops (Nectaron, Nelson): &#039;&#039;&#039;cool-pooled and dry-hopped&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Mosaic&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; help prevent vegetal character&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses &#039;&#039;&#039;regular Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;, no special lots&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Dry Hop|Podcasts: Oregon: Dry Hop]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Mosaic]]&#039;&#039;&#039; to tie it together&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Top note: &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Strata]]&#039;&#039;&#039; + &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson Kief&#039;&#039;&#039; from Freestyle&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Simcoe&amp;diff=362</id>
		<title>Simcoe</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Simcoe&amp;diff=362"/>
		<updated>2026-07-27T08:15:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;Notes on &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; gathered automatically from across the wiki. Each heading links back to the exact section it came from&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop Oils#Hops Oils 101|Hop Oils: Hops Oils 101]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Those compounds classified as hydrocarbons are highly volatile, not very soluble, and are perceptible in finished beer only when added very late in the boil or post-fermentation. Myrcene is almost always the most prominent, constituting 50 percent or more of the oils in hops varieties such as [[Cascade]] and Simcoe. It has a green, herbaceous, and resinous aroma associated with fresh hops that will be scrubbed away during boiling and fermentation but that will provide distinctive piney character to a dry-hopped beer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop Oils#Hops by Compound|Hop Oils: Hops by Compound]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Geraniol-rich Hops&lt;br /&gt;
** Aurora, [[Bravo]], [[Cascade]], [[Centennial]], [[Chinook]], [[Citra]], [[Mosaic]], [[Motueka]], [[Styrian Golding]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Linalool-rich Hops&lt;br /&gt;
** [[Amarillo]], Cascade, Centennial, Citra, Glacier, Millennium, [[Mount Hood]], [[Nugget]], Pacifica, [[Willamette]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Hops that Contain 4-mercapto-4-methylpentan-2-one (4MMP)&lt;br /&gt;
** Apollo, Cascade, Centennial, Citra, Chinook, [[Cluster]], [[Ekuanot|Equinox]], Mosaic, Simcoe, Summit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Thiols#Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA|Thiols: Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 2-Row Malt for Base, 25% all wheat, incl. high protein red wheat from Mecca Grade.  Mash Hopping with US [[Cascade]] Hops&lt;br /&gt;
* Whirlpool at 175, 2 Kg of [[Idaho 7]] Full Spectrum Plasma &amp;amp; 0.5 lbs. / bbl Simcoe&lt;br /&gt;
* Ferment with Tropics yeast at 68 deg.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry Hop 5 lbs / bbl with blend of [[Mosaic]], [[Citra]] Cryo, Waimea &amp;amp; [[Nelson Sauvin|Nelson]] hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop combos#Hop Combinations that Emulate Fruit Flavors|Hop combos: Hop Combinations that Emulate Fruit Flavors]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* · Orange Juice – [[Mosaic]], [[Amarillo]], [[Centennial]]&lt;br /&gt;
* · Orange Rind – [[Bravo]]&lt;br /&gt;
* · Grapefruit – Simcoe, Amarillo&lt;br /&gt;
* · Lemon – Lemondrop, [[Citra]], Centennial, [[Loral]] Cryo&lt;br /&gt;
* · Lime – [[Motueka]]&lt;br /&gt;
* · Mango – Simcoe, [[Citra]]&lt;br /&gt;
* · Passionfruit – [[Strata]], Citra&lt;br /&gt;
* · Pineapple – [[Sultana]], [[Azacca]], Citra&lt;br /&gt;
* · Coconut – [[Sabro]]&lt;br /&gt;
* · Guava – Still searching for the right combination&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop combos#US|Hop combos: US]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* CBB 349 &#039;&#039;&#039;- Parish:&#039;&#039;&#039; Ghost is big on &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe and [[Cascade]]&#039;&#039;&#039; on the hot side. Dry hop is mostly [[Citra]] with a little cascade&lt;br /&gt;
* 65-70% &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* round out with &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Idaho 7]]&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* touch of &#039;&#039;&#039;chinoook&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* early harvest simcoe and [[Idaho 7|idaho 7]] are fruitiest&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop combos#NZ|Hop combos: NZ]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Nelson Sauvin|Nelson]]/[[Riwaka]]/[[Mosaic]]/Simcoe cryo&#039;&#039;&#039;  Was a fun one&lt;br /&gt;
* Mosaic simcoe only in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop was even split (4.4lb/bbl so 1.2lb/bbl each)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[West Coast Pilsner#hops|West Coast Pilsner: hops]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)ops: sam- start with noble in the boil, get that traditional German flavor as a bottom layer. &#039;&#039;&#039;Mandarin and melon&#039;&#039;&#039; they really like (new German hops) [[Spalt|spalt]] select in boil&#039;&#039;&#039;. Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; is good on these beers, always tries to get some of that. And &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; is good with lager ferms. He’s a little more careful with [[Mosaic|mosaic]]. Their core wcpils is &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; hot side, dry hop with &#039;&#039;&#039;mosaic/[[Nelson Sauvin|nelson]]&#039;&#039;&#039;. They save the nobles for Italian Pilsners&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[West Coast IPA#Burlington Beer|West Coast IPA: Burlington Beer]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* early harvest simcoe and [[Idaho 7|idaho 7]] are fruitiest&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Late Boil Additions|Podcasts: Oregon: Late Boil Additions]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* At &#039;&#039;&#039;5–10 minutes remaining&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
** Add &#039;&#039;&#039;CO2 extract&#039;&#039;&#039; (Simcoe or [[Mosaic]])&lt;br /&gt;
** Add a &#039;&#039;&#039;large dose of T90 pellets&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* CO2 extract is favored for a &#039;&#039;&#039;resinous character&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Hop Varietals &amp;amp; Blends|Podcasts: Oregon: Hop Varietals &amp;amp; Blends]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
** Works especially well when it’s not the dominant hop&lt;br /&gt;
** Example: Blends nicely with &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Nectaron]]&#039;&#039;&#039; in NZ IPAs&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
** Pairs well with &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039;, &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Mosaic]]&#039;&#039;&#039;, and other classics&lt;br /&gt;
** Adds a &#039;&#039;&#039;red berry&#039;&#039;&#039; flavor&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;1019 (Dolcita)&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
** Effective at around &#039;&#039;&#039;25%&#039;&#039;&#039; of the hop bill&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Hops|Podcasts: Oregon: Hops]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039; as base&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039;: works best at &#039;&#039;&#039;20% or less&#039;&#039;&#039;, adds some woody notes&lt;br /&gt;
** Can be overdone—best used in a mix&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Nectaron]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Nelson Sauvin|Nelson]]&#039;&#039;&#039; as top notes&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;A little [[Mosaic]]&#039;&#039;&#039; to tie it together&lt;br /&gt;
* NZ hops (Nectaron, Nelson): &#039;&#039;&#039;cool-pooled and dry-hopped&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Mosaic&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; help prevent vegetal character&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses &#039;&#039;&#039;regular Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;, no special lots&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Hot Side|Podcasts: Oregon: Hot Side]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Columbus]]&#039;&#039;&#039; for bittering and at end of boil&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; at end of boil&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Chinook]]&#039;&#039;&#039; + &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039; also added on hot side&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Nelson_Sauvin&amp;diff=359</id>
		<title>Nelson Sauvin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Nelson_Sauvin&amp;diff=359"/>
		<updated>2026-07-27T08:10:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: /* From Thiols: Incorporating Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpenes in Recipes */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;Notes on &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson Sauvin&#039;&#039;&#039; gathered automatically from across the wiki. Each heading links back to the exact section it came from.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hazy IPA#Hops misc|Hazy IPA: Hops misc]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Evan - 165 coolpool. Don’t go over &#039;&#039;&#039;1lb/bbl in w.pool&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Kelsey - also &#039;&#039;&#039;1lb/bbl&#039;&#039;&#039; due to constrictions &lt;br /&gt;
* All of them try to do at &#039;&#039;&#039;10ibu bittering charge&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
* Kelsey - they do &#039;&#039;&#039;“dip hop” with flowables&#039;&#039;&#039;. But &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;be careful&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; cause you have a stratified hot layer on top. Through experiments they found that as soon as the wort hits the manway (you can feel the heat) they bump for 30 seconds with 20psi and that mixes everything well (3/4-1bbl of hot out of 15bbl batch). &lt;br /&gt;
* 75% &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; 25% &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; is good&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Malt Bills]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses a mix of Pilsners&lt;br /&gt;
* Likes gambrinus Pilsner cause it’s so lean &lt;br /&gt;
* Some malts and hops match well. Nelson matches gambrinus cause it’s so lean, but it’s too lean for competition beers (they’ve gotten knocked for it). [[NZ hops]] match it so well&lt;br /&gt;
* Rahr is good cause has more “shoulders” &lt;br /&gt;
* PNW doesnt pop as much with gambrinus&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hops#CBB 270 - sapwood|Hops: CBB 270 - sapwood]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Hops dry hopped at a lower ph have a generic hoppines but using more potent hops like Nelson or [[Riwaka|riwaka]] can stand up to it more&lt;br /&gt;
*  Dry hop sub 40 degrees F (they started warmer but studies show warmer pulls out stuff like myrcene)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hops#Favorite hop combos:|Hops: Favorite hop combos:]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Riwaka]] + [[Rakau]] (50/50)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Citra]] + Nelson&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Thiols#Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA|Thiols: Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 2-Row Malt for Base, 25% all wheat, incl. high protein red wheat from Mecca Grade.  Mash Hopping with US [[Cascade]] Hops&lt;br /&gt;
* Whirlpool at 175, 2 Kg of [[Idaho 7]] Full Spectrum Plasma &amp;amp; 0.5 lbs. / bbl [[Simcoe]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Ferment with Tropics yeast at 68 deg.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry Hop 5 lbs / bbl with blend of [[Mosaic]], [[Citra]] Cryo, Waimea &amp;amp; Nelson hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From Thiols: Incorporating Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpenes in Recipes ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Results from VB show us that Thiols are only part of the story. Must take into account:&lt;br /&gt;
* Presence of Monoterpene Alcohols: Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol&lt;br /&gt;
* Ester compounds found in hops like 2MIB&lt;br /&gt;
* Knowing Free Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpene Alcohol Concentrations, a brewer can extrapolate when planning dry hops.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 Nelson hops / bbl = 1300 ng/L of potential 3S4MP if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 [[Sabro]] Cryo hops / bbl = 497.84 ppm of potential Geraniol if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* Thinking about how much ”special sauce” could be going into your DH, rather than a blind lbs / bbl benchmark.&lt;br /&gt;
* Establish Odor Activity Values for various compounds, then determine how to get there with hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop combos#US|Hop combos: US]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* CBB Hazy now&#039;&#039;&#039;:&#039;&#039;&#039; 75% &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; 25% &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; is good&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop combos#NZ|Hop combos: NZ]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Sorachi Ace|Sorachi]] ace and Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; combo, I don’t recall where that combo was recommended&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson/[[Riwaka]]/[[Mosaic]]/[[Simcoe]] cryo&#039;&#039;&#039;  Was a fun one&lt;br /&gt;
* Mosaic simcoe only in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop was even split (4.4lb/bbl so 1.2lb/bbl each)&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Hoppy Lager - R:&#039;&#039;&#039; We’ve done the same base hoppy lager a few times and switched up the hop combos. Favorite so far was &#039;&#039;&#039;Mandarina/Nelson/[[Nectaron]]&#039;&#039;&#039;. All 3 in the dry hop. Nelson/Necataron at a 170 degree whirlpool.&lt;br /&gt;
* Used it with &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Mosaic]], [[Talus]], Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; and got a real tropical coconut vibe. &lt;br /&gt;
* Used it with &#039;&#039;&#039;Kohatu and [[Wai-iti]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and it&#039;s all pineapple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[West Coast Pilsner#hops|West Coast Pilsner: hops]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)ops: sam- start with noble in the boil, get that traditional German flavor as a bottom layer. &#039;&#039;&#039;Mandarin and melon&#039;&#039;&#039; they really like (new German hops) [[Spalt|spalt]] select in boil&#039;&#039;&#039;. [[Simcoe]]&#039;&#039;&#039; is good on these beers, always tries to get some of that. And &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; is good with lager ferms. He’s a little more careful with [[Mosaic|mosaic]]. Their core wcpils is &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; hot side, dry hop with &#039;&#039;&#039;mosaic/nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;. They save the nobles for Italian Pilsners&lt;br /&gt;
* Bob - low alpha hops on hot side, recently noble heritage but US grown, instead of 1lb of high alpha they use 3lb low alpha cause that high vegetal matter gives it a little weight and structure. Cold side- lager kicks more sulfur for sure. Can play well or not. Bright tropical high tone citrus zest hops play well with sulfur; &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]], [[Mosaic|mosaic]], Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;. Maybe those old school hops help build thiol stuff that works well with the sulfur in the lager yeast. They do 69/30/10 and whirlpool to build layers of texture. The varietals they like are Adina, super [[Saaz|saaz]] f/michigan, they like floral delicate citrus and not so much herbal, Crosby [[Sterling|sterling]],&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Hops|Podcasts: Oregon: Hops]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Simcoe]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039; as base&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039;: works best at &#039;&#039;&#039;20% or less&#039;&#039;&#039;, adds some woody notes&lt;br /&gt;
** Can be overdone—best used in a mix&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Nectaron]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; as top notes&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;A little [[Mosaic]]&#039;&#039;&#039; to tie it together&lt;br /&gt;
* NZ hops (Nectaron, Nelson): &#039;&#039;&#039;cool-pooled and dry-hopped&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Mosaic&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; help prevent vegetal character&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses &#039;&#039;&#039;regular Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;, no special lots&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Dry Hop|Podcasts: Oregon: Dry Hop]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Mosaic]]&#039;&#039;&#039; to tie it together&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Top note: &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Strata]]&#039;&#039;&#039; + &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson Kief&#039;&#039;&#039; from Freestyle&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Nelson_Sauvin&amp;diff=358</id>
		<title>Nelson Sauvin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Nelson_Sauvin&amp;diff=358"/>
		<updated>2026-07-27T08:09:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: /* From Thiols: Incorporating Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpenes in Recipes */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;Notes on &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson Sauvin&#039;&#039;&#039; gathered automatically from across the wiki. Each heading links back to the exact section it came from.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hazy IPA#Hops misc|Hazy IPA: Hops misc]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Evan - 165 coolpool. Don’t go over &#039;&#039;&#039;1lb/bbl in w.pool&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Kelsey - also &#039;&#039;&#039;1lb/bbl&#039;&#039;&#039; due to constrictions &lt;br /&gt;
* All of them try to do at &#039;&#039;&#039;10ibu bittering charge&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
* Kelsey - they do &#039;&#039;&#039;“dip hop” with flowables&#039;&#039;&#039;. But &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;be careful&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; cause you have a stratified hot layer on top. Through experiments they found that as soon as the wort hits the manway (you can feel the heat) they bump for 30 seconds with 20psi and that mixes everything well (3/4-1bbl of hot out of 15bbl batch). &lt;br /&gt;
* 75% &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; 25% &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; is good&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Malt Bills]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses a mix of Pilsners&lt;br /&gt;
* Likes gambrinus Pilsner cause it’s so lean &lt;br /&gt;
* Some malts and hops match well. Nelson matches gambrinus cause it’s so lean, but it’s too lean for competition beers (they’ve gotten knocked for it). [[NZ hops]] match it so well&lt;br /&gt;
* Rahr is good cause has more “shoulders” &lt;br /&gt;
* PNW doesnt pop as much with gambrinus&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hops#CBB 270 - sapwood|Hops: CBB 270 - sapwood]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Hops dry hopped at a lower ph have a generic hoppines but using more potent hops like Nelson or [[Riwaka|riwaka]] can stand up to it more&lt;br /&gt;
*  Dry hop sub 40 degrees F (they started warmer but studies show warmer pulls out stuff like myrcene)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hops#Favorite hop combos:|Hops: Favorite hop combos:]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Riwaka]] + [[Rakau]] (50/50)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Citra]] + Nelson&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Thiols#Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA|Thiols: Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 2-Row Malt for Base, 25% all wheat, incl. high protein red wheat from Mecca Grade.  Mash Hopping with US [[Cascade]] Hops&lt;br /&gt;
* Whirlpool at 175, 2 Kg of [[Idaho 7]] Full Spectrum Plasma &amp;amp; 0.5 lbs. / bbl [[Simcoe]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Ferment with Tropics yeast at 68 deg.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry Hop 5 lbs / bbl with blend of [[Mosaic]], [[Citra]] Cryo, Waimea &amp;amp; Nelson hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From Thiols: &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Incorporating Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpenes in Recipes&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Results from VB show us that Thiols are only part of the story. Must take into account:&lt;br /&gt;
* Presence of Monoterpene Alcohols: Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol&lt;br /&gt;
* Ester compounds found in hops like 2MIB&lt;br /&gt;
* Knowing Free Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpene Alcohol Concentrations, a brewer can extrapolate when planning dry hops.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 Nelson hops / bbl = 1300 ng/L of potential 3S4MP if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 [[Sabro]] Cryo hops / bbl = 497.84 ppm of potential Geraniol if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* Thinking about how much ”special sauce” could be going into your DH, rather than a blind lbs / bbl benchmark.&lt;br /&gt;
* Establish Odor Activity Values for various compounds, then determine how to get there with hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop combos#US|Hop combos: US]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* CBB Hazy now&#039;&#039;&#039;:&#039;&#039;&#039; 75% &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; 25% &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; is good&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop combos#NZ|Hop combos: NZ]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Sorachi Ace|Sorachi]] ace and Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; combo, I don’t recall where that combo was recommended&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson/[[Riwaka]]/[[Mosaic]]/[[Simcoe]] cryo&#039;&#039;&#039;  Was a fun one&lt;br /&gt;
* Mosaic simcoe only in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop was even split (4.4lb/bbl so 1.2lb/bbl each)&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Hoppy Lager - R:&#039;&#039;&#039; We’ve done the same base hoppy lager a few times and switched up the hop combos. Favorite so far was &#039;&#039;&#039;Mandarina/Nelson/[[Nectaron]]&#039;&#039;&#039;. All 3 in the dry hop. Nelson/Necataron at a 170 degree whirlpool.&lt;br /&gt;
* Used it with &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Mosaic]], [[Talus]], Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; and got a real tropical coconut vibe. &lt;br /&gt;
* Used it with &#039;&#039;&#039;Kohatu and [[Wai-iti]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and it&#039;s all pineapple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[West Coast Pilsner#hops|West Coast Pilsner: hops]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)ops: sam- start with noble in the boil, get that traditional German flavor as a bottom layer. &#039;&#039;&#039;Mandarin and melon&#039;&#039;&#039; they really like (new German hops) [[Spalt|spalt]] select in boil&#039;&#039;&#039;. [[Simcoe]]&#039;&#039;&#039; is good on these beers, always tries to get some of that. And &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; is good with lager ferms. He’s a little more careful with [[Mosaic|mosaic]]. Their core wcpils is &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; hot side, dry hop with &#039;&#039;&#039;mosaic/nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;. They save the nobles for Italian Pilsners&lt;br /&gt;
* Bob - low alpha hops on hot side, recently noble heritage but US grown, instead of 1lb of high alpha they use 3lb low alpha cause that high vegetal matter gives it a little weight and structure. Cold side- lager kicks more sulfur for sure. Can play well or not. Bright tropical high tone citrus zest hops play well with sulfur; &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]], [[Mosaic|mosaic]], Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;. Maybe those old school hops help build thiol stuff that works well with the sulfur in the lager yeast. They do 69/30/10 and whirlpool to build layers of texture. The varietals they like are Adina, super [[Saaz|saaz]] f/michigan, they like floral delicate citrus and not so much herbal, Crosby [[Sterling|sterling]],&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Hops|Podcasts: Oregon: Hops]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Simcoe]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039; as base&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039;: works best at &#039;&#039;&#039;20% or less&#039;&#039;&#039;, adds some woody notes&lt;br /&gt;
** Can be overdone—best used in a mix&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Nectaron]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; as top notes&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;A little [[Mosaic]]&#039;&#039;&#039; to tie it together&lt;br /&gt;
* NZ hops (Nectaron, Nelson): &#039;&#039;&#039;cool-pooled and dry-hopped&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Mosaic&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; help prevent vegetal character&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses &#039;&#039;&#039;regular Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;, no special lots&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Dry Hop|Podcasts: Oregon: Dry Hop]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Mosaic]]&#039;&#039;&#039; to tie it together&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Top note: &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Strata]]&#039;&#039;&#039; + &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson Kief&#039;&#039;&#039; from Freestyle&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Nelson_Sauvin&amp;diff=357</id>
		<title>Nelson Sauvin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Nelson_Sauvin&amp;diff=357"/>
		<updated>2026-07-27T08:09:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: /* From Thiols: Incorporating Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpenes in Recipes */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;Notes on &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson Sauvin&#039;&#039;&#039; gathered automatically from across the wiki. Each heading links back to the exact section it came from.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hazy IPA#Hops misc|Hazy IPA: Hops misc]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Evan - 165 coolpool. Don’t go over &#039;&#039;&#039;1lb/bbl in w.pool&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Kelsey - also &#039;&#039;&#039;1lb/bbl&#039;&#039;&#039; due to constrictions &lt;br /&gt;
* All of them try to do at &#039;&#039;&#039;10ibu bittering charge&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
* Kelsey - they do &#039;&#039;&#039;“dip hop” with flowables&#039;&#039;&#039;. But &#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;be careful&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039; cause you have a stratified hot layer on top. Through experiments they found that as soon as the wort hits the manway (you can feel the heat) they bump for 30 seconds with 20psi and that mixes everything well (3/4-1bbl of hot out of 15bbl batch). &lt;br /&gt;
* 75% &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; 25% &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; is good&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Malt Bills]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses a mix of Pilsners&lt;br /&gt;
* Likes gambrinus Pilsner cause it’s so lean &lt;br /&gt;
* Some malts and hops match well. Nelson matches gambrinus cause it’s so lean, but it’s too lean for competition beers (they’ve gotten knocked for it). [[NZ hops]] match it so well&lt;br /&gt;
* Rahr is good cause has more “shoulders” &lt;br /&gt;
* PNW doesnt pop as much with gambrinus&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hops#CBB 270 - sapwood|Hops: CBB 270 - sapwood]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Hops dry hopped at a lower ph have a generic hoppines but using more potent hops like Nelson or [[Riwaka|riwaka]] can stand up to it more&lt;br /&gt;
*  Dry hop sub 40 degrees F (they started warmer but studies show warmer pulls out stuff like myrcene)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hops#Favorite hop combos:|Hops: Favorite hop combos:]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Riwaka]] + [[Rakau]] (50/50)&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Citra]] + Nelson&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Thiols#Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA|Thiols: Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* 2-Row Malt for Base, 25% all wheat, incl. high protein red wheat from Mecca Grade.  Mash Hopping with US [[Cascade]] Hops&lt;br /&gt;
* Whirlpool at 175, 2 Kg of [[Idaho 7]] Full Spectrum Plasma &amp;amp; 0.5 lbs. / bbl [[Simcoe]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Ferment with Tropics yeast at 68 deg.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry Hop 5 lbs / bbl with blend of [[Mosaic]], [[Citra]] Cryo, Waimea &amp;amp; Nelson hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Thiols#&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Incorporating Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpenes in Recipes&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;|Thiols: &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Incorporating Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpenes in Recipes&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Results from VB show us that Thiols are only part of the story. Must take into account:&lt;br /&gt;
* Presence of Monoterpene Alcohols: Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol&lt;br /&gt;
* Ester compounds found in hops like 2MIB&lt;br /&gt;
* Knowing Free Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpene Alcohol Concentrations, a brewer can extrapolate when planning dry hops.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 Nelson hops / bbl = 1300 ng/L of potential 3S4MP if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 [[Sabro]] Cryo hops / bbl = 497.84 ppm of potential Geraniol if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* Thinking about how much ”special sauce” could be going into your DH, rather than a blind lbs / bbl benchmark.&lt;br /&gt;
* Establish Odor Activity Values for various compounds, then determine how to get there with hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop combos#US|Hop combos: US]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* CBB Hazy now&#039;&#039;&#039;:&#039;&#039;&#039; 75% &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; 25% &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; is good&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Hop combos#NZ|Hop combos: NZ]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Sorachi Ace|Sorachi]] ace and Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; combo, I don’t recall where that combo was recommended&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson/[[Riwaka]]/[[Mosaic]]/[[Simcoe]] cryo&#039;&#039;&#039;  Was a fun one&lt;br /&gt;
* Mosaic simcoe only in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop was even split (4.4lb/bbl so 1.2lb/bbl each)&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Hoppy Lager - R:&#039;&#039;&#039; We’ve done the same base hoppy lager a few times and switched up the hop combos. Favorite so far was &#039;&#039;&#039;Mandarina/Nelson/[[Nectaron]]&#039;&#039;&#039;. All 3 in the dry hop. Nelson/Necataron at a 170 degree whirlpool.&lt;br /&gt;
* Used it with &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Mosaic]], [[Talus]], Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; and got a real tropical coconut vibe. &lt;br /&gt;
* Used it with &#039;&#039;&#039;Kohatu and [[Wai-iti]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and it&#039;s all pineapple.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[West Coast Pilsner#hops|West Coast Pilsner: hops]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)ops: sam- start with noble in the boil, get that traditional German flavor as a bottom layer. &#039;&#039;&#039;Mandarin and melon&#039;&#039;&#039; they really like (new German hops) [[Spalt|spalt]] select in boil&#039;&#039;&#039;. [[Simcoe]]&#039;&#039;&#039; is good on these beers, always tries to get some of that. And &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]]&#039;&#039;&#039; is good with lager ferms. He’s a little more careful with [[Mosaic|mosaic]]. Their core wcpils is &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; hot side, dry hop with &#039;&#039;&#039;mosaic/nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;. They save the nobles for Italian Pilsners&lt;br /&gt;
* Bob - low alpha hops on hot side, recently noble heritage but US grown, instead of 1lb of high alpha they use 3lb low alpha cause that high vegetal matter gives it a little weight and structure. Cold side- lager kicks more sulfur for sure. Can play well or not. Bright tropical high tone citrus zest hops play well with sulfur; &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Citra|citra]], [[Mosaic|mosaic]], Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;. Maybe those old school hops help build thiol stuff that works well with the sulfur in the lager yeast. They do 69/30/10 and whirlpool to build layers of texture. The varietals they like are Adina, super [[Saaz|saaz]] f/michigan, they like floral delicate citrus and not so much herbal, Crosby [[Sterling|sterling]],&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Hops|Podcasts: Oregon: Hops]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Simcoe]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039; as base&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039;: works best at &#039;&#039;&#039;20% or less&#039;&#039;&#039;, adds some woody notes&lt;br /&gt;
** Can be overdone—best used in a mix&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Nectaron]]&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; as top notes&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;A little [[Mosaic]]&#039;&#039;&#039; to tie it together&lt;br /&gt;
* NZ hops (Nectaron, Nelson): &#039;&#039;&#039;cool-pooled and dry-hopped&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Mosaic&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; help prevent vegetal character&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses &#039;&#039;&#039;regular Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;, no special lots&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== From [[Podcasts: Oregon#Dry Hop|Podcasts: Oregon: Dry Hop]] ==&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Mosaic]]&#039;&#039;&#039; to tie it together&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Krush&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* Top note: &#039;&#039;&#039;[[Strata]]&#039;&#039;&#039; + &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson Kief&#039;&#039;&#039; from Freestyle&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Red&amp;diff=238</id>
		<title>Red</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Red&amp;diff=238"/>
		<updated>2026-02-14T11:56:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: Created page with &amp;quot;Shun Nakade (expat Brewers)  I’m brewing a Red IPA next week. Funny timing. My go to malt bill is:  ~75% Base Malt  -12% Melanoidin  ~12% Spelt Malt  ~1% Midnight Wheat  As expected, the ratio varies depending on the color ramge you are aiming for, and which base malt you are using. I tend to go for Ireks Pilsner or Rahr North Star.  Red X is good but I have had a few under attenuated beers when I went 100% Red X.  I do use finings to get that clear red color, and spel...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Shun Nakade (expat Brewers)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I’m brewing a Red IPA next week. Funny timing. My go to malt bill is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
~75% Base Malt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
-12% Melanoidin&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
~12% Spelt Malt&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
~1% Midnight Wheat&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As expected, the ratio varies depending on the color ramge you are aiming for, and which base malt you are using. I tend to go for Ireks Pilsner or Rahr North Star.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Red X is good but I have had a few under attenuated beers when I went 100% Red X.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I do use finings to get that clear red color, and spelt malt doesn’t usually cause much of a haze but it provides that body you expect from that color. Melanoidin is for both color and perceived sweetness.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another thing about haze for me when it comes to red beers is to reduce the amount of time of diacetyl rest as much as possible. Run the diacetyl test frequently and keep that 20c post fermentation tank to minimum.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I don’t have a good source for this info but coming from experience. My best guess is that with red beers (and my use of melanoidin malts), letting it sit in that range for a long time, the yeast gets stressed and keeps working hard and produce too much enzymes to break down some proteins into amino acids. You end up with smaller protein particles that end up binding with polyphenols from dry hops or heavy WP hopping that cause that haze.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As I said fining is important, but when I have shorted D rest time, my red beers with exact same grist bill and similar hopping regime come out clear. Like crystal (not crystal malt) clear.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sorry for the rant, and it’s just my own experience. I wish both of us good luck with red hoppy beers!&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Coffee&amp;diff=237</id>
		<title>Coffee</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Coffee&amp;diff=237"/>
		<updated>2026-02-13T12:48:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can roast away most of the pyrazines if you want, that will eliminate alot of the potential for green pepper. Lighter roasts, certain processing methods, and some terroirs are just naturally green pepper heavy. Then typically low stout pH amplifies it. It seems to evolve over time because the eventual oxidation of the beer is stripping the more pleasant aromatic notes of both the coffee and the beer and leaving behind the pyrazines which were there the whole time but buried underneath of everything else.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
TL;DR - Don&#039;t want green pepper flavors in your coffee stout? Use a darker roast and/or coffee from Ethiopia or Sumatra. And don&#039;t let that pH fall below 4.5 in the finished beer. To grind or not to grind, contact time, extraction temperature also play a secondary role but that&#039;s a whole &#039;nother post.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
.....&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Grinding dissipates a lot of the oils. The trade off is extraction but mainly you don&#039;t get as much of the earthy flavor by using whole beans. It depends on what you&#039;re going for. In my opinion cracked beans are the best of both if you have a method available (if the grain mill allows a wide enough gap that&#039;d be ideal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://www.reddit.com/r/TheBrewery/comments/1r309mf/espresso_porter/&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Coffee&amp;diff=236</id>
		<title>Coffee</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Coffee&amp;diff=236"/>
		<updated>2026-02-13T12:44:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: Created page with &amp;quot;  You can roast away most of the pyrazines if you want, that will eliminate alot of the potential for green pepper. Lighter roasts, certain processing methods, and some terroirs are just naturally green pepper heavy. Then typically low stout pH amplifies it. It seems to evolve over time because the eventual oxidation of the beer is stripping the more pleasant aromatic notes of both the coffee and the beer and leaving behind the pyrazines which were there the whole time b...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can roast away most of the pyrazines if you want, that will eliminate alot of the potential for green pepper. Lighter roasts, certain processing methods, and some terroirs are just naturally green pepper heavy. Then typically low stout pH amplifies it. It seems to evolve over time because the eventual oxidation of the beer is stripping the more pleasant aromatic notes of both the coffee and the beer and leaving behind the pyrazines which were there the whole time but buried underneath of everything else.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
TL;DR - Don&#039;t want green pepper flavors in your coffee stout? Use a darker roast and/or coffee from Ethiopia or Sumatra. And don&#039;t let that pH fall below 4.5 in the finished beer. To grind or not to grind, contact time, extraction temperature also play a secondary role but that&#039;s a whole &#039;nother post.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Dark_Malts&amp;diff=235</id>
		<title>Dark Malts</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Dark_Malts&amp;diff=235"/>
		<updated>2025-12-02T00:20:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: /* Cold Steeping Dark Malts: */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Cold Steeping Dark Malts: ==&lt;br /&gt;
Sse 2 quarts of water per lb of grain.  1.8 liters of water per .45kg grain (4 liters/kg)  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Left Hand Brewing ==&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure Chocolate Malt is about twice the [[roasted barley]] so its not too bitter. Heavy Barley = bitter sweet&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=234</id>
		<title>Hops</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=234"/>
		<updated>2025-11-28T01:30:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Mash Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park - Janish mash hops 2lbs in 10bbls just to get iron content down (for oxidation) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Thiols - R&#039;&#039;&#039;:&#039;&#039;&#039; Done a bunch of brews with mash hopping combined with Thiolized yeast and the results are fascinating.... &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Saaz mash hop at a rate of 5kg/25hL batch resulted in a beer bursting with grapefruit notes, &lt;br /&gt;
* Cascade mash hop at the same rate (in essentially the same malt and kettle hop profile) was bursting with guava notes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Order of Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB Podcast 202: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
They always do T90s, then cryo, then terpenes. Because basically, vegetal matter, hop oils will absorb to vegetal matter, and the vegetal matter will pull the hop oils out. So each time they dry hop, they use something that has least, less vegetal matter on it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hop Varietal Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Misc: ===&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
** good “base” hop, &#039;&#039;&#039;NZ&#039;&#039;&#039; Is good for top note (CBB - Firestone)&lt;br /&gt;
** CBB 321 - Varietal: El dorado is a great supporting hop, but not on its own&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Bravo Hops&#039;&#039;&#039; (Brulosophy Hop Chronicles)&lt;br /&gt;
** I couldn’t agree more with the results from blind participants, Bravo imparted a deliciously pungent citrus flavor balanced nicely by notes of tropical fruit and a hint of floral character that I think would work just as beautifully in a liberally hopped IPA as it would a less aggressive Amber Ale or Saison. And on top of all that, the bitterness quality was smooth and enjoyable. Bravo is an absolute winner in my book&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Zappa&#039;&#039;&#039; Hop Tips: (from CLS farms) &lt;br /&gt;
** Kettle: Maximize on herbal and spice qualities.&lt;br /&gt;
** Whirlpool: Introduce the wider and multifaceted aromas of Zappa.&lt;br /&gt;
** Dry Hop: Elicit the hop’s more tropical notes of passion fruit and mango, grape, or fruity pebbles.​​&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Complementary Hops:&#039;&#039;&#039; Dependent on which part of the aromatic spectrum you want to focus on. Maximize Zappa®’s tropical notes by combining with El Dorado®, Mosaic or Strata; for red fruits and berries look to Cashmere or Idaho Gem; for citrus a combination of Centennial, Cascade, and Chinook would play well.&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Sabro&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
**CBB 340 - Calusa uses Sabro at about 20% to keep it dialed back (also Sabro has mouthfeel)&lt;br /&gt;
**We found that &#039;&#039;&#039;Talus&#039;&#039;&#039; gives a lot more coconut taste is used in the whirlpool vs dry hop, I assume Sabro is the same&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Książęcy&#039;&#039;&#039;  &lt;br /&gt;
** very coconut, maybe use them in a black ipa?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== C-Hops: ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually dry hop is less than/around 25%&lt;br /&gt;
* Blending the c-hops with the sexy hops makes the aroma stick around more (chinook, Columbus)&lt;br /&gt;
* He thinks it’s something about the oils that makes the aromas stick around more.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Southern Hemisphere ===&lt;br /&gt;
Wibby Loves &#039;&#039;&#039;Waiti hops&#039;&#039;&#039; cause low alpha and high oils and you can add tons to the whirlpool. Adds a new dimension to his hop program.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Breakside - &#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039; needs a very short contact time (48 hours or left)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bitterness ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 192 Burke Gilliam: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Mid boil - chinook, strata, have nice complicated bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Warrior has good citrus piney bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Most single IPAs beers 40-60 IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
* Example: c-Hops would be 10-15% of the kettle and the rest would be other hop varieties (just to give some bite), mainly whirlpool&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusual hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What&#039;s the most unorthodox hop you&#039;ve used in a dry-hop? (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Calypso&#039;&#039;&#039; also has an extremely high quantity of thiols that work well with Berkeley Yeast&#039;s Tropics yeast and OYL&#039;s Cosmic Punch. &lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop an APA with &#039;&#039;&#039;Fuggles&#039;&#039;&#039;, Blew my mind. &lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Strisselspalt&#039;&#039;&#039;. Used it in a Sencha IPA. Paired it with Liberty and Vic Secret. I really liked the outcome. &lt;br /&gt;
* We just dry hopped a Vienna Pils with &#039;&#039;&#039;Saphir.&#039;&#039;&#039; Not sure if that counts or not. …. Not really, I mean, that&#039;s what Firestone Walker Pivo Pils is dry hopped with, right? &lt;br /&gt;
* We’ve thrown &#039;&#039;&#039;saaz&#039;&#039;&#039; in the dry hopping mix at twice the dosing rate to some new world varietals for a pale and we got pretty interesting matcha green tea vibes, was pretty cool, definitely a one off concept.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Don’t sleep on Idaho Gem.&#039;&#039;&#039; Idaho gem and strata, that is a combo made in heaven and then you get a better idea what gem is like.  I always go heavy Idaho gem so I’d say 60-40. whirlpool: it also has a good amount of survivable flavors/aromas similar to Idaho 7  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Experience with new Styrian hop varieties? (Dragon, Wolf, Eagle, etc.) (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian wolf is fantastic. Very fruity when used for dry hop. &lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian Cardinal is pretty cool. Definitely has the apple/strawberry thing as advertised as well as some apricot noble spice. &lt;br /&gt;
** Just used Styrian wolf in a saison during whirlpool. The aromatics and flavours are quite distinct; elderflower and tropical fruits are present but I feel they are complimented by a nice Noble hope spice which brings a full flavoured feel to the finished product.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusng Hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Brewer&#039;s Perspectives: Unsung Hops (Beer and Brewing Sean Buchan )&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“In supporting roles, we tend to use a good amount of &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039;,” says Sean Buchan of Cerebral Brewing, “but in small amounts—10–20 percent of the hops bill. It can get excessively sweet on you really quick, especially if you combine it with other hops that have that perceived sweetness, so we tend to use it in conjunction with other hops that will tame that back a bit. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“We’ve been using a lot more Huell Melon and Hallertau Blanc in IPAs, and the &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Huell Melon/Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; combo has worked really well for us. It tends to bring out more of the melon notes already there in Galaxy, and we get more pineapple and honeydew melon. Similarly, &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Hallertau Blanc and Motueka&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; work well together to complement bright hops, and we use it with Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy as well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Our Remote Island IPA is &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy, Hallertau Blanc, and Motueka,&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; with Galaxy being 50 percent and the other two the remaining 50 percent. They work really well to provide a lot more depth and bring out more of the bright pineapple and a hint of lemongrass that I always enjoy. It adds a bit of complexity to the hops bill, so it’s not just one big fruit note.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“I love Columbus, and it works well with Citra at about &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;80 percent Citra, 20 percent Columbus&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;. We use heavier Columbus in the whirpool, then flip the ratio in the dry hop. The Citra lot we have right now is bright with a ton of lychee, passionfruit, and other fun acidic fruits. But in everything we do, I don’t want the fruit to dominate everything else, so Columbus brings that back a bit with a touch of classic citrus and a little bit of dank. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dosage Rates ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== American IPA and Hazy IPA ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reddit- Curious what everyone&#039;s dry hop ratio is per bbl based on their standard American IPA and Hazy IPA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* For us, we do 2.5lbs/bbl for American IPA and 3.5lbs/bbl for our Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
* Diminishing returns are real. That said, go 4-5# per barrel on a 2 stage DH for hazys. Whirlpool hop extracts and cryo/t-45s can be great too.&lt;br /&gt;
* After working somewhere that did upwards of #6.5/bbl on hazy I&#039;ve found the sweet spot between #2-#3/bbl. At #2.2/bbl my Citra hazy is just as juicy and hop forward as the #4.5/bbl beer I use to have to brew.&lt;br /&gt;
* We go with 3#/bbl. Though when we get into 2-stage/double dry hopping it&#039;s generally around 5#/bbl&lt;br /&gt;
* Typically around 5lb/bbl on our hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* Around 5 for hazy, around 3-4 for anything else&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually 3 for west coast, 6+ for hazies. Hotside usually looks like 1.5-2.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.75-2.25 - East/West Coast 2.25-2.75 – Hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5kg (3.3lbs)/bbl for hazies, 1kg (2.2lbs)/bbl other IPAs&lt;br /&gt;
* American or west coast we are around 2#/bbl. For hazy our standard is 6# (flagship is 4 and we’ve gone up to 10)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5lb in the kettle, 3lbs dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
* Biggest positive effect I’ve seen on our proverbial bang-per-buck is doing the (now almost industry standard it seems) soft crash to 55F for 1-2 days, harvesting yeast after first 14 hours, doing initial dump, then a second dump day 2, then dry-hopping at that 55F. Haven’t noticed too much difference between holding the beer on those dry hops for 2 days vs 5 days, even with twice daily CO2 rousing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Varietal:&#039;&#039;&#039;1.5-2lbs/bbl for whirlpool. Usually 2-3 varieties - CBB 321&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Parish:&#039;&#039;&#039; No hops in bbl. About 1lb/bbl at flameout Then cool below 180 and add 3lb/bbl for whirlpool (takes about 30 minutes to get to 180) - CBB 349&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Sapwood:&#039;&#039;&#039;Whirlpool is close to 2lbs/bbl - CBB 270&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lawson:&#039;&#039;&#039; 1-2lbs/bbl dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Breakside -&#039;&#039;&#039; if they don’t dry hop twice then they felt like lots of hops don’t matter. Low dry hop amounts for each charge. Citra is always good for the second or late hop, for the top notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CBB Hazy Now:&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Green Cheek - 165 coolpool. Don’t go over 1lb/bbl in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* North Park - also 1lb/bbl due to constrictions&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park&#039;&#039;&#039; - Fidens - does 2lb/bbl whirlpool, dry hops in small quantities over a few days. And they don’t rouse&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;360 Burlington&#039;&#039;&#039;: 30bbl: w.pool - 22lb (9.9kg).  dry hop - 143 lb (64kg - 18 g/L)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop saturation point: R -&#039;&#039;&#039; The general wisdom seems to be the higher the abv the more you can saturate the beer with hops. We’ve got great results at 5-6g/L on a 5% beer but we’re at 8g/L IPAs and pretty much double that for DIPA’s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== WC PILS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Firestone? Does about 1.5lb/bbl dry hop and higher abv (5.9%) for balance (lager yeast you don’t get esters to fill out the profile) Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Survivables ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Survivables.png|none|frame]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Reverse Engineering Cryo Pop ===&lt;br /&gt;
(TRI-2304CR) Blend (thirdleap brewing&#039;&#039;&#039;)&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A blend of 46% Idaho 7 / 25% Citra / 24% Loral / 5% Talus is closest to TRI-2304CR &lt;br /&gt;
* a blend of 65% Idaho 7 / 33% Mosaic / 2% Citra maximizes each “survivable” compound level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Misc Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== CBB 270 - sapwood ===&lt;br /&gt;
* Hops dry hopped at a lower ph have a generic hoppines but using more potent hops like Nelson or riwaka can stand up to it more&lt;br /&gt;
*  Dry hop sub 40 degrees F (they started warmer but studies show warmer pulls out stuff like myrcene)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== CBB 84 Hop Butcher for the World ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop Combinations&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* One combo they tried that they really liked recently is &#039;&#039;&#039;Amarillo, Strata, and Galaxy.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy Usage&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* For Galaxy, they use about 15–20%.&lt;br /&gt;
* None on the hot side, all in the dry hop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Dry Hopping Approach&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They do one big dry hop at 1–2 Plato before finishing.&lt;br /&gt;
* Then they cap it.&lt;br /&gt;
* They don’t rouse; they let the finishing fermentation rouse it.&lt;br /&gt;
* No second dry hop.&lt;br /&gt;
* Every once in a while, if there’s no aroma, they’ll try to rouse or bump it up. But the vast majority of beers: no rousing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop Varieties – Cryo vs T90&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They love &#039;&#039;&#039;Equinox&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;(Ekuanot) Cryo:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
** T90 pellets can give vegetal green pepper flavor if used too much., cCryo is super tropical and lemon.&lt;br /&gt;
* They also like &#039;&#039;&#039;Mosaic Cryo&#039;&#039;&#039; for hazies:&lt;br /&gt;
** Mosaic T90 can sometimes give a green flavor, Mosaic Cryo is just pure fruit.&lt;br /&gt;
** But they do like Mosaic T90 for West Coast, because they want some of that green, stank flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Polish Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
From our hop rub day with the Polish Hop guys...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* ZU12 was tangerine and bright yellow citrus&lt;br /&gt;
* PL01 was peach, apricot, diesel, and guava. This was one of the top two&lt;br /&gt;
* PL160 was a hop that Live Oak used in a pilsner. I didn&#039;t get much from it&lt;br /&gt;
* PL149 was unusual, kind of farty but in a good way, like maybe lots of sulfur? could be interesting to play with?&lt;br /&gt;
* Zbyszko was my favorite. Very unusual, tasted like custard and pound cake. Bready and super custard. Someone suggesed to them using it in a gose and that sounds good to me, maybe like a Great Notion blueberry muffin style beer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== NEw Zealand Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB Podcast, my notes say 418 but thats wrong. Also talked about witbier&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Favorite hop combos: ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Riwaka + Rakau (50/50)&lt;br /&gt;
* Citra + Nelson&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Hop Notes ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Rakau: Just okay on its own, works well in blends, especially with NZ hops, lays a solid foundation&lt;br /&gt;
* Riwaka: Low threshold; 20% or 50% gives similar flavor impact, Using more (30–50%) makes it feel more fruity and less dominant&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Australian hops:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Does not rouse them during dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
* Too “pasty” / too haze-positive—even for hazy beers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Hop suppliers &amp;amp; characteristics: ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Garston: muted when rubbed, but very fruity in bright tank&lt;br /&gt;
* Freestyle: diesel-like&lt;br /&gt;
* Eggers: similar to Freestyle, but more diesel-forward&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hop Trial tests: ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Pull 1 liter of beer from the fermenter at dry hop stage&lt;br /&gt;
* Add hops at intended g/L rate (e.g. ~28 g for 1 L)&lt;br /&gt;
* Shake/mix to simulate batch conditions&lt;br /&gt;
* Taste after ~4 hours for evaluation&lt;br /&gt;
* Shorter contact helps reduce oxidation risk&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Witbier&amp;diff=233</id>
		<title>Witbier</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Witbier&amp;diff=233"/>
		<updated>2025-11-28T01:26:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: Created page with &amp;quot;== CBB Podcast == I have it as #418 in my notes but thats wrong. This podcast also talked about NZ hops/   * Uses Verdant yeast for witbier. * Makes a version with lime zest and pink peppercorn only. * Likes the pepper-citrus combo, avoids phenolic yeast flavors. * Water profile: ** Chloride: ~150 ppm, Sulfate: ~80 ppm   === Whirlpool additions: ===  * Fresh lime zest for ~5 minutes, in bags for easy removal. * Coriander in bags, 1–1.5 g/L. * Motueka hops also in the w...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== CBB Podcast ==&lt;br /&gt;
I have it as #418 in my notes but thats wrong. This podcast also talked about NZ hops/ &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Uses Verdant yeast for witbier.&lt;br /&gt;
* Makes a version with lime zest and pink peppercorn only.&lt;br /&gt;
* Likes the pepper-citrus combo, avoids phenolic yeast flavors.&lt;br /&gt;
* Water profile:&lt;br /&gt;
** Chloride: ~150 ppm, Sulfate: ~80 ppm &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Whirlpool additions: ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Fresh lime zest for ~5 minutes, in bags for easy removal.&lt;br /&gt;
* Coriander in bags, 1–1.5 g/L.&lt;br /&gt;
* Motueka hops also in the whirlpool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Fermentation &amp;amp; process: ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Drops to 16°C for diacetyl rest (may be a misstatement).&lt;br /&gt;
* Drops to 13°C for infusion additions like dry hops or zest.&lt;br /&gt;
* Beers are typically 7–8 days grain to glass. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Styles]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=232</id>
		<title>Hops</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=232"/>
		<updated>2025-11-21T07:56:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Mash Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park - Janish mash hops 2lbs in 10bbls just to get iron content down (for oxidation) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Thiols - R&#039;&#039;&#039;:&#039;&#039;&#039; Done a bunch of brews with mash hopping combined with Thiolized yeast and the results are fascinating.... &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Saaz mash hop at a rate of 5kg/25hL batch resulted in a beer bursting with grapefruit notes, &lt;br /&gt;
* Cascade mash hop at the same rate (in essentially the same malt and kettle hop profile) was bursting with guava notes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Order of Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB Podcast 202: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
They always do T90s, then cryo, then terpenes. Because basically, vegetal matter, hop oils will absorb to vegetal matter, and the vegetal matter will pull the hop oils out. So each time they dry hop, they use something that has least, less vegetal matter on it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hop Varietal Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Misc: ===&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
** good “base” hop, &#039;&#039;&#039;NZ&#039;&#039;&#039; Is good for top note (CBB - Firestone)&lt;br /&gt;
** CBB 321 - Varietal: El dorado is a great supporting hop, but not on its own&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Bravo Hops&#039;&#039;&#039; (Brulosophy Hop Chronicles)&lt;br /&gt;
** I couldn’t agree more with the results from blind participants, Bravo imparted a deliciously pungent citrus flavor balanced nicely by notes of tropical fruit and a hint of floral character that I think would work just as beautifully in a liberally hopped IPA as it would a less aggressive Amber Ale or Saison. And on top of all that, the bitterness quality was smooth and enjoyable. Bravo is an absolute winner in my book&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Zappa&#039;&#039;&#039; Hop Tips: (from CLS farms) &lt;br /&gt;
** Kettle: Maximize on herbal and spice qualities.&lt;br /&gt;
** Whirlpool: Introduce the wider and multifaceted aromas of Zappa.&lt;br /&gt;
** Dry Hop: Elicit the hop’s more tropical notes of passion fruit and mango, grape, or fruity pebbles.​​&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Complementary Hops:&#039;&#039;&#039; Dependent on which part of the aromatic spectrum you want to focus on. Maximize Zappa®’s tropical notes by combining with El Dorado®, Mosaic or Strata; for red fruits and berries look to Cashmere or Idaho Gem; for citrus a combination of Centennial, Cascade, and Chinook would play well.&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Sabro&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
**CBB 340 - Calusa uses Sabro at about 20% to keep it dialed back (also Sabro has mouthfeel)&lt;br /&gt;
**We found that &#039;&#039;&#039;Talus&#039;&#039;&#039; gives a lot more coconut taste is used in the whirlpool vs dry hop, I assume Sabro is the same&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Książęcy&#039;&#039;&#039;  &lt;br /&gt;
** very coconut, maybe use them in a black ipa?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== C-Hops: ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually dry hop is less than/around 25%&lt;br /&gt;
* Blending the c-hops with the sexy hops makes the aroma stick around more (chinook, Columbus)&lt;br /&gt;
* He thinks it’s something about the oils that makes the aromas stick around more.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Southern Hemisphere ===&lt;br /&gt;
Wibby Loves &#039;&#039;&#039;Waiti hops&#039;&#039;&#039; cause low alpha and high oils and you can add tons to the whirlpool. Adds a new dimension to his hop program.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Breakside - &#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039; needs a very short contact time (48 hours or left)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bitterness ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 192 Burke Gilliam: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Mid boil - chinook, strata, have nice complicated bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Warrior has good citrus piney bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Most single IPAs beers 40-60 IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
* Example: c-Hops would be 10-15% of the kettle and the rest would be other hop varieties (just to give some bite), mainly whirlpool&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusual hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What&#039;s the most unorthodox hop you&#039;ve used in a dry-hop? (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Calypso&#039;&#039;&#039; also has an extremely high quantity of thiols that work well with Berkeley Yeast&#039;s Tropics yeast and OYL&#039;s Cosmic Punch. &lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop an APA with &#039;&#039;&#039;Fuggles&#039;&#039;&#039;, Blew my mind. &lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Strisselspalt&#039;&#039;&#039;. Used it in a Sencha IPA. Paired it with Liberty and Vic Secret. I really liked the outcome. &lt;br /&gt;
* We just dry hopped a Vienna Pils with &#039;&#039;&#039;Saphir.&#039;&#039;&#039; Not sure if that counts or not. …. Not really, I mean, that&#039;s what Firestone Walker Pivo Pils is dry hopped with, right? &lt;br /&gt;
* We’ve thrown &#039;&#039;&#039;saaz&#039;&#039;&#039; in the dry hopping mix at twice the dosing rate to some new world varietals for a pale and we got pretty interesting matcha green tea vibes, was pretty cool, definitely a one off concept.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Don’t sleep on Idaho Gem.&#039;&#039;&#039; Idaho gem and strata, that is a combo made in heaven and then you get a better idea what gem is like.  I always go heavy Idaho gem so I’d say 60-40. whirlpool: it also has a good amount of survivable flavors/aromas similar to Idaho 7  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Experience with new Styrian hop varieties? (Dragon, Wolf, Eagle, etc.) (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian wolf is fantastic. Very fruity when used for dry hop. &lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian Cardinal is pretty cool. Definitely has the apple/strawberry thing as advertised as well as some apricot noble spice. &lt;br /&gt;
** Just used Styrian wolf in a saison during whirlpool. The aromatics and flavours are quite distinct; elderflower and tropical fruits are present but I feel they are complimented by a nice Noble hope spice which brings a full flavoured feel to the finished product.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusng Hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Brewer&#039;s Perspectives: Unsung Hops (Beer and Brewing Sean Buchan )&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“In supporting roles, we tend to use a good amount of &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039;,” says Sean Buchan of Cerebral Brewing, “but in small amounts—10–20 percent of the hops bill. It can get excessively sweet on you really quick, especially if you combine it with other hops that have that perceived sweetness, so we tend to use it in conjunction with other hops that will tame that back a bit. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“We’ve been using a lot more Huell Melon and Hallertau Blanc in IPAs, and the &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Huell Melon/Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; combo has worked really well for us. It tends to bring out more of the melon notes already there in Galaxy, and we get more pineapple and honeydew melon. Similarly, &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Hallertau Blanc and Motueka&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; work well together to complement bright hops, and we use it with Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy as well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Our Remote Island IPA is &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy, Hallertau Blanc, and Motueka,&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; with Galaxy being 50 percent and the other two the remaining 50 percent. They work really well to provide a lot more depth and bring out more of the bright pineapple and a hint of lemongrass that I always enjoy. It adds a bit of complexity to the hops bill, so it’s not just one big fruit note.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“I love Columbus, and it works well with Citra at about &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;80 percent Citra, 20 percent Columbus&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;. We use heavier Columbus in the whirpool, then flip the ratio in the dry hop. The Citra lot we have right now is bright with a ton of lychee, passionfruit, and other fun acidic fruits. But in everything we do, I don’t want the fruit to dominate everything else, so Columbus brings that back a bit with a touch of classic citrus and a little bit of dank. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dosage Rates ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== American IPA and Hazy IPA ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reddit- Curious what everyone&#039;s dry hop ratio is per bbl based on their standard American IPA and Hazy IPA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* For us, we do 2.5lbs/bbl for American IPA and 3.5lbs/bbl for our Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
* Diminishing returns are real. That said, go 4-5# per barrel on a 2 stage DH for hazys. Whirlpool hop extracts and cryo/t-45s can be great too.&lt;br /&gt;
* After working somewhere that did upwards of #6.5/bbl on hazy I&#039;ve found the sweet spot between #2-#3/bbl. At #2.2/bbl my Citra hazy is just as juicy and hop forward as the #4.5/bbl beer I use to have to brew.&lt;br /&gt;
* We go with 3#/bbl. Though when we get into 2-stage/double dry hopping it&#039;s generally around 5#/bbl&lt;br /&gt;
* Typically around 5lb/bbl on our hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* Around 5 for hazy, around 3-4 for anything else&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually 3 for west coast, 6+ for hazies. Hotside usually looks like 1.5-2.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.75-2.25 - East/West Coast 2.25-2.75 – Hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5kg (3.3lbs)/bbl for hazies, 1kg (2.2lbs)/bbl other IPAs&lt;br /&gt;
* American or west coast we are around 2#/bbl. For hazy our standard is 6# (flagship is 4 and we’ve gone up to 10)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5lb in the kettle, 3lbs dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
* Biggest positive effect I’ve seen on our proverbial bang-per-buck is doing the (now almost industry standard it seems) soft crash to 55F for 1-2 days, harvesting yeast after first 14 hours, doing initial dump, then a second dump day 2, then dry-hopping at that 55F. Haven’t noticed too much difference between holding the beer on those dry hops for 2 days vs 5 days, even with twice daily CO2 rousing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Varietal:&#039;&#039;&#039;1.5-2lbs/bbl for whirlpool. Usually 2-3 varieties - CBB 321&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Parish:&#039;&#039;&#039; No hops in bbl. About 1lb/bbl at flameout Then cool below 180 and add 3lb/bbl for whirlpool (takes about 30 minutes to get to 180) - CBB 349&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Sapwood:&#039;&#039;&#039;Whirlpool is close to 2lbs/bbl - CBB 270&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lawson:&#039;&#039;&#039; 1-2lbs/bbl dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Breakside -&#039;&#039;&#039; if they don’t dry hop twice then they felt like lots of hops don’t matter. Low dry hop amounts for each charge. Citra is always good for the second or late hop, for the top notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CBB Hazy Now:&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Green Cheek - 165 coolpool. Don’t go over 1lb/bbl in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* North Park - also 1lb/bbl due to constrictions&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park&#039;&#039;&#039; - Fidens - does 2lb/bbl whirlpool, dry hops in small quantities over a few days. And they don’t rouse&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;360 Burlington&#039;&#039;&#039;: 30bbl: w.pool - 22lb (9.9kg).  dry hop - 143 lb (64kg - 18 g/L)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop saturation point: R -&#039;&#039;&#039; The general wisdom seems to be the higher the abv the more you can saturate the beer with hops. We’ve got great results at 5-6g/L on a 5% beer but we’re at 8g/L IPAs and pretty much double that for DIPA’s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== WC PILS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Firestone? Does about 1.5lb/bbl dry hop and higher abv (5.9%) for balance (lager yeast you don’t get esters to fill out the profile) Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Survivables ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Survivables.png|none|frame]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Reverse Engineering Cryo Pop ===&lt;br /&gt;
(TRI-2304CR) Blend (thirdleap brewing&#039;&#039;&#039;)&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A blend of 46% Idaho 7 / 25% Citra / 24% Loral / 5% Talus is closest to TRI-2304CR &lt;br /&gt;
* a blend of 65% Idaho 7 / 33% Mosaic / 2% Citra maximizes each “survivable” compound level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Misc Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== CBB 270 - sapwood ===&lt;br /&gt;
* Hops dry hopped at a lower ph have a generic hoppines but using more potent hops like Nelson or riwaka can stand up to it more&lt;br /&gt;
*  Dry hop sub 40 degrees F (they started warmer but studies show warmer pulls out stuff like myrcene)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== CBB 84 Hop Butcher for the World ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop Combinations&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* One combo they tried that they really liked recently is &#039;&#039;&#039;Amarillo, Strata, and Galaxy.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy Usage&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* For Galaxy, they use about 15–20%.&lt;br /&gt;
* None on the hot side, all in the dry hop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Dry Hopping Approach&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They do one big dry hop at 1–2 Plato before finishing.&lt;br /&gt;
* Then they cap it.&lt;br /&gt;
* They don’t rouse; they let the finishing fermentation rouse it.&lt;br /&gt;
* No second dry hop.&lt;br /&gt;
* Every once in a while, if there’s no aroma, they’ll try to rouse or bump it up. But the vast majority of beers: no rousing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop Varieties – Cryo vs T90&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They love &#039;&#039;&#039;Equinox&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;(Ekuanot) Cryo:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
** T90 pellets can give vegetal green pepper flavor if used too much., cCryo is super tropical and lemon.&lt;br /&gt;
* They also like &#039;&#039;&#039;Mosaic Cryo&#039;&#039;&#039; for hazies:&lt;br /&gt;
** Mosaic T90 can sometimes give a green flavor, Mosaic Cryo is just pure fruit.&lt;br /&gt;
** But they do like Mosaic T90 for West Coast, because they want some of that green, stank flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Polish Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
From our hop rub day with the Polish Hop guys...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* ZU12 was tangerine and bright yellow citrus&lt;br /&gt;
* PL01 was peach, apricot, diesel, and guava. This was one of the top two&lt;br /&gt;
* PL160 was a hop that Live Oak used in a pilsner. I didn&#039;t get much from it&lt;br /&gt;
* PL149 was unusual, kind of farty but in a good way, like maybe lots of sulfur? could be interesting to play with?&lt;br /&gt;
* Zbyszko was my favorite. Very unusual, tasted like custard and pound cake. Bready and super custard. Someone suggesed to them using it in a gose and that sounds good to me, maybe like a Great Notion blueberry muffin style beer &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=47_Ronin&amp;diff=231</id>
		<title>47 Ronin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=47_Ronin&amp;diff=231"/>
		<updated>2025-10-31T04:30:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: /* Names so far */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
= The 47 Rōnin – Table of Roles, Actions, and Legacy =&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Name (English)&lt;br /&gt;
!Name (Japanese)&lt;br /&gt;
!Role / Rank&lt;br /&gt;
!In Hiding&lt;br /&gt;
!Legacy&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Kuranosuke Yoshio&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 内蔵助 良雄&lt;br /&gt;
|Chief retainer, leader&lt;br /&gt;
|Feigned dissipation in Kyoto (drinking, women) to deceive Kira’s spies&lt;br /&gt;
|Master strategist, symbol of cunning loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Chikara Yoshikane&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 主税 良金&lt;br /&gt;
|Son of Kuranosuke (15 yrs)&lt;br /&gt;
|Stayed with father, quietly trained&lt;br /&gt;
|Youthful devotion, died with honor&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Horibe Yasubee Taketsune&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|堀部 安兵衛 武庸&lt;br /&gt;
|Master swordsman&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived in Edo, trained discreetly&lt;br /&gt;
|Folk hero, fencing legend&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Onodera Jūnai Hidetomi&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|小野寺 十内 秀富&lt;br /&gt;
|Senior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Kept group disciplined with Confucian teachings&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of moral guidance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kataoka Gengoemon Takafusa&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|片岡 源五右衛門 高房&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Organized supplies, weapons&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of loyalty in hardship&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Fuwa Kazuemon Masatane&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|不破 数右衛門 正種&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot-tempered warrior&lt;br /&gt;
|Waited impatiently, urged for swift action&lt;br /&gt;
|Admired for martial zeal&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hara Sōemon Taketoshi&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|原 惣右衛門 武俊&lt;br /&gt;
|Strong fighter&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as a commoner in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Remembered for physical bravery&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yoshida Chūzaemon Kanesada&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|吉田 忠左衛門 兼貞&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Helped recruit wavering comrades&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of steadfastness&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kayano Sanpei Masanaga&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|茅野 三平 政永&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Collected intelligence on Kira’s residence&lt;br /&gt;
|Known as a spy-like figure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okano Kin’emon Kanehide&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|岡野 金右衛門 包秀&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Broke off engagement to focus on vendetta&lt;br /&gt;
|Tragic-romantic hero&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Masayoshi Tomomori&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間瀬 久太夫 正明&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked in trades to cover identity&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of endurance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okuda Magodayū Shigemori&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|奥田 孫太夫 重盛&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as merchant&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyalty through disguise&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yokogawa Kanpei Hisayasu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|横川 勘平 久保&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived as a servant in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of humble sacrifice&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Maehara Isuke Yukitaka&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|前原 伊助 幸隆&lt;br /&gt;
|Go-between&lt;br /&gt;
|Traveled often, kept communications secret&lt;br /&gt;
|Facilitator of the vendetta&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hazama Jūjirō Mitsunobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間 十次郎 光延&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked menial jobs in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Patience and endurance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Harada Matasuke Mitsunobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|原田 又右衛門 光直&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as craftsman near Kira’s mansion&lt;br /&gt;
|Key scout&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Muramatsu Sandayū Takanao&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|村松 三太夫 高直&lt;br /&gt;
|Senior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Retired quietly but rejoined for raid&lt;br /&gt;
|Elders’ loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Sugaya Hachirōzaemon Mitsushige&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|菅谷 半之丞 正利&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Maintained contact with supporters in Ako&lt;br /&gt;
|Link between Edo and home&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Oishi Sezaemon Nobukiyo&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 瀬左衛門 信清&lt;br /&gt;
|Cousin of Ōishi&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as laborer in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Family loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Matsumura Sōjirō Kaneyasu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|松村 宗十郎 兼安&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as a clerk in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of blending into common life&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Yataemon Nobufusa&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 弥太右衛門 信房&lt;br /&gt;
|Family retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Stayed near Kuranosuke&lt;br /&gt;
|Familial loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Nishimura Kan’emon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|西村 金右衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as peddler&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of persistence&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Sugino Jūrōzaemon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|杉野 十郎左衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked in trades to earn living&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyalty in obscurity&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kurahashi Sannosuke Takeyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|倉橋 三之助 武行&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Took work as artisan&lt;br /&gt;
|Died young in the raid&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Takebayashi Tadashichi Masashige&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|竹林 唯七 正恒&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as commoner&lt;br /&gt;
|Quiet perseverance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Tomimori Densuke&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|富森 伝右衛門 正直&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Posed as servant in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Remembered for stealth role&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yoshida Senzō Jirōemon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|吉田 仙蔵 次郎右衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked as errand boy&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyal in menial disguise&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kataoka Jūjirō Tadanobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|片岡 十三郎 忠正&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived disguised in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Persevered until attack&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Muramatsu Shigenobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|村松 茂信&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Took lowly jobs&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of loyalty despite hardship&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okuda Shigeyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|奥田 重之&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid in Edo as tradesman&lt;br /&gt;
|Died with comrades&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Mase Kyūdai&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間瀬 久大夫&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as shop worker&lt;br /&gt;
|Kept surveillance role&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kuranaga Rihei&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|倉永 理兵衛&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked as craftsman&lt;br /&gt;
|Humble but faithful&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Maehara Tōzaemon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|前原 桃左衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Died loyally&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Teraoka Nobuyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|寺岡 信行&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived as servant&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguise loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hazama Jūshirō&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間 十四郎&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Blended into townsfolk&lt;br /&gt;
|Perseverance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yokogawa Hisayasu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|横川 久安&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as farmer&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of persistence&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Horibe Taketsune (same family)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|堀部 武庸&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Trained discreetly&lt;br /&gt;
|Family line loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Yoshitaka&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 良隆&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid with other Oishi relatives&lt;br /&gt;
|Clan loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yoshida Kanesada&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|吉田 兼貞&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Took low-level jobs&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyalty remembered&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kayano Masanaga&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|茅野 政永&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as townsman&lt;br /&gt;
|Enduring loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okano Kanehide&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|岡野 包秀&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Broke off engagement (folk tale)&lt;br /&gt;
|Romantic figure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Terasaka Kichiemon Nobuyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|寺坂 吉右衛門 信行&lt;br /&gt;
|Messenger&lt;br /&gt;
|Spared seppuku to spread news&lt;br /&gt;
|Only survivor, testified later&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Names so far ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!#&lt;br /&gt;
!Rōnin&lt;br /&gt;
!Beer Name&lt;br /&gt;
!Style / Notes&lt;br /&gt;
!Story / Reason&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;1&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ōishi Kuranosuke&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Kuronosake&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Black IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|Leader of the 47; pretended to be a drunken fool to deceive Kira while plotting revenge. The dark-but-crisp Black IPA mirrors his “black disguise” and hidden sharpness.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;3&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Kataoka Gengo&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kataoka Gengose&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Fruited gose&lt;br /&gt;
|One of the younger warriors; the playful sour style fits his energy. You liked the natural pun on his name.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;5&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Onodera Jūnai&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Onodera Brew-nai&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Pale ale&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyal, dependable, educated retainer; a balanced, approachable pale suits his steadiness.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;6&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hara Sōemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hara Sourmon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Fruited sour&lt;br /&gt;
|A fierce fighter during the raid; the “sour bite” echoes his edge and courage.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;8&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hazama Jūjirō&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hazama Juicy-ro&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|Young, energetic ronin; the “juicy” haze captures his fresh boldness.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;9&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Yokogawa Kanpei&lt;br /&gt;
|—&lt;br /&gt;
|Double IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|Described as large and strong; a high-gravity, double IPA matches his size and power.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;10&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Horibe Yasubee&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Horibe Yasubeer&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|—&lt;br /&gt;
|A famous swordsman and duelist; quick, confident, instantly recognizable—hence the clean pun that stands on its own.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;11&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ōishi Chikara&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Oishi Chikara Stout&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|—&lt;br /&gt;
|Ōishi Kuranosuke’s son; “Chikara” means strength—perfect for a bold stout.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;12&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Muramatsu Sandayū&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Muramaltsu Lager&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Classic lager&lt;br /&gt;
|Quiet, steadfast, utterly reliable; a simple, traditional lager reflects that loyalty.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;13&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ōtaka Gengo&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōtaka Gengolden Ale&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Golden ale&lt;br /&gt;
|Veteran samurai noted for composure; a golden ale’s balance suits his dignity.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;14&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Sugino Juheiji&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Sugino Juicy Hazy&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Juicy Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|Modern, fruit-forward haze to match his bright, friendly image.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;15&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Maebara Bunshichi&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Maebara Bunch-Saison (Libushi collab)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Saison&lt;br /&gt;
|Collab call-out you specified; saison fits his rural Akō background and Libushi’s farmhouse focus.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ōishi Sezaemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Saison-mon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Saison&lt;br /&gt;
|Relative of the leader; shares the Ōishi loyalty theme, mirrored by the shared farmhouse style.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;17&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Kimura Okaemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kimura Osakemon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ale with sake yeast&lt;br /&gt;
|Famous for his love of sake; the sake-yeast ale honors that directly.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;19&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Okuda Magodayū&lt;br /&gt;
|—&lt;br /&gt;
|Bitter IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|You chose this because he was especially vengeful in the raid; bitterness mirrors that fury.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;21&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hara Mototoki&lt;br /&gt;
|—&lt;br /&gt;
|German Pils (early in story)&lt;br /&gt;
|One of the planners; careful and precise. A crisp, meticulous pils suits his temperament.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;22&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ōishi Yoshitaka&lt;br /&gt;
|—&lt;br /&gt;
|Session IPA / brother beer&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger brother of the leader; a lighter “session” version to pair with #1’s flagship.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;23&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Yoshida Tokihisa&lt;br /&gt;
|—&lt;br /&gt;
|Barrel-aged strong ale (before attack)&lt;br /&gt;
|“Toki” = time; he’s remembered for patience. Aging over time fits his symbolism and release timing.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;25&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Kayano Sanpei&lt;br /&gt;
|—&lt;br /&gt;
|Bright IPA (style)&lt;br /&gt;
|Cheerful, youthful spirit; bright, fruit-forward IPA captures that optimism.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;28&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Okano Jūemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okano Juicy-mon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|—&lt;br /&gt;
|You linked him to #14 (Juicy Hazy); same juicy hop character to keep the family feel.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;33&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Tomomori Suke’emon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Momo-mori&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Peach beer&lt;br /&gt;
|You made it a peach beer; “momo” (peach) plus his name’s “protect/friend” meaning fits the gentle tone.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;38&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hazama Yōsuke&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hazyma Yosuke&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|The wordplay Hazy + Hazama; smooth hazy matches his calm loyalty.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;40&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hara Heizaemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hara Hazy-mon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Session Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|Keeps the hazy family line; “-mon” keeps the rhythm of his name.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;44&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Kimura Jūemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kimura Juicy-man Lager&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|—&lt;br /&gt;
|You said “yes juicy man”; dry-hopped lager plays off the juicy motif.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;46&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Mase Yagorō&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Mase Golden (ゴールデン)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Golden ale&lt;br /&gt;
|“Kane/metal/gold” associations and your note to show ゴールデン in katakana.&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=47_Ronin&amp;diff=230</id>
		<title>47 Ronin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=47_Ronin&amp;diff=230"/>
		<updated>2025-10-31T04:15:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
= The 47 Rōnin – Table of Roles, Actions, and Legacy =&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Name (English)&lt;br /&gt;
!Name (Japanese)&lt;br /&gt;
!Role / Rank&lt;br /&gt;
!In Hiding&lt;br /&gt;
!Legacy&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Kuranosuke Yoshio&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 内蔵助 良雄&lt;br /&gt;
|Chief retainer, leader&lt;br /&gt;
|Feigned dissipation in Kyoto (drinking, women) to deceive Kira’s spies&lt;br /&gt;
|Master strategist, symbol of cunning loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Chikara Yoshikane&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 主税 良金&lt;br /&gt;
|Son of Kuranosuke (15 yrs)&lt;br /&gt;
|Stayed with father, quietly trained&lt;br /&gt;
|Youthful devotion, died with honor&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Horibe Yasubee Taketsune&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|堀部 安兵衛 武庸&lt;br /&gt;
|Master swordsman&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived in Edo, trained discreetly&lt;br /&gt;
|Folk hero, fencing legend&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Onodera Jūnai Hidetomi&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|小野寺 十内 秀富&lt;br /&gt;
|Senior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Kept group disciplined with Confucian teachings&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of moral guidance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kataoka Gengoemon Takafusa&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|片岡 源五右衛門 高房&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Organized supplies, weapons&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of loyalty in hardship&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Fuwa Kazuemon Masatane&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|不破 数右衛門 正種&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot-tempered warrior&lt;br /&gt;
|Waited impatiently, urged for swift action&lt;br /&gt;
|Admired for martial zeal&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hara Sōemon Taketoshi&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|原 惣右衛門 武俊&lt;br /&gt;
|Strong fighter&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as a commoner in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Remembered for physical bravery&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yoshida Chūzaemon Kanesada&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|吉田 忠左衛門 兼貞&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Helped recruit wavering comrades&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of steadfastness&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kayano Sanpei Masanaga&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|茅野 三平 政永&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Collected intelligence on Kira’s residence&lt;br /&gt;
|Known as a spy-like figure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okano Kin’emon Kanehide&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|岡野 金右衛門 包秀&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Broke off engagement to focus on vendetta&lt;br /&gt;
|Tragic-romantic hero&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Masayoshi Tomomori&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間瀬 久太夫 正明&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked in trades to cover identity&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of endurance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okuda Magodayū Shigemori&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|奥田 孫太夫 重盛&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as merchant&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyalty through disguise&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yokogawa Kanpei Hisayasu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|横川 勘平 久保&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived as a servant in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of humble sacrifice&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Maehara Isuke Yukitaka&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|前原 伊助 幸隆&lt;br /&gt;
|Go-between&lt;br /&gt;
|Traveled often, kept communications secret&lt;br /&gt;
|Facilitator of the vendetta&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hazama Jūjirō Mitsunobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間 十次郎 光延&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked menial jobs in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Patience and endurance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Harada Matasuke Mitsunobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|原田 又右衛門 光直&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as craftsman near Kira’s mansion&lt;br /&gt;
|Key scout&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Muramatsu Sandayū Takanao&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|村松 三太夫 高直&lt;br /&gt;
|Senior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Retired quietly but rejoined for raid&lt;br /&gt;
|Elders’ loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Sugaya Hachirōzaemon Mitsushige&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|菅谷 半之丞 正利&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Maintained contact with supporters in Ako&lt;br /&gt;
|Link between Edo and home&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Oishi Sezaemon Nobukiyo&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 瀬左衛門 信清&lt;br /&gt;
|Cousin of Ōishi&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as laborer in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Family loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Matsumura Sōjirō Kaneyasu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|松村 宗十郎 兼安&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as a clerk in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of blending into common life&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Yataemon Nobufusa&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 弥太右衛門 信房&lt;br /&gt;
|Family retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Stayed near Kuranosuke&lt;br /&gt;
|Familial loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Nishimura Kan’emon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|西村 金右衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as peddler&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of persistence&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Sugino Jūrōzaemon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|杉野 十郎左衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked in trades to earn living&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyalty in obscurity&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kurahashi Sannosuke Takeyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|倉橋 三之助 武行&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Took work as artisan&lt;br /&gt;
|Died young in the raid&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Takebayashi Tadashichi Masashige&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|竹林 唯七 正恒&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as commoner&lt;br /&gt;
|Quiet perseverance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Tomimori Densuke&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|富森 伝右衛門 正直&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Posed as servant in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Remembered for stealth role&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yoshida Senzō Jirōemon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|吉田 仙蔵 次郎右衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked as errand boy&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyal in menial disguise&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kataoka Jūjirō Tadanobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|片岡 十三郎 忠正&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived disguised in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Persevered until attack&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Muramatsu Shigenobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|村松 茂信&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Took lowly jobs&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of loyalty despite hardship&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okuda Shigeyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|奥田 重之&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid in Edo as tradesman&lt;br /&gt;
|Died with comrades&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Mase Kyūdai&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間瀬 久大夫&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as shop worker&lt;br /&gt;
|Kept surveillance role&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kuranaga Rihei&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|倉永 理兵衛&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked as craftsman&lt;br /&gt;
|Humble but faithful&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Maehara Tōzaemon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|前原 桃左衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Died loyally&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Teraoka Nobuyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|寺岡 信行&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived as servant&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguise loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hazama Jūshirō&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間 十四郎&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Blended into townsfolk&lt;br /&gt;
|Perseverance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yokogawa Hisayasu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|横川 久安&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as farmer&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of persistence&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Horibe Taketsune (same family)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|堀部 武庸&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Trained discreetly&lt;br /&gt;
|Family line loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Yoshitaka&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 良隆&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid with other Oishi relatives&lt;br /&gt;
|Clan loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yoshida Kanesada&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|吉田 兼貞&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Took low-level jobs&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyalty remembered&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kayano Masanaga&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|茅野 政永&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as townsman&lt;br /&gt;
|Enduring loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okano Kanehide&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|岡野 包秀&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Broke off engagement (folk tale)&lt;br /&gt;
|Romantic figure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Terasaka Kichiemon Nobuyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|寺坂 吉右衛門 信行&lt;br /&gt;
|Messenger&lt;br /&gt;
|Spared seppuku to spread news&lt;br /&gt;
|Only survivor, testified later&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Names so far ==&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!#&lt;br /&gt;
!Original Rōnin Name&lt;br /&gt;
!Beer Name&lt;br /&gt;
!Style / Concept&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;1&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ōishi Kuranosuke&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Kuronosake&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Black IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;3&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Kataoka Gengo&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kataoka Gengose&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Fruited gose&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;5&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Onodera Jūnai&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Onodera Brew-nai&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Pale ale&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;6&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hara Sōemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hara Sourmon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Fruited sour&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;7&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Fuwa Kazuemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hothead Kveik&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Kveik ale&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;8&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hazama Jūjirō&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hazama Juicy-ro&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;9&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Yokogawa Kanpei&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kanpei Double IPA&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Double IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;10&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Horibe Yasubee&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Horibe Yasubeer&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Farmhouse / Bière de Garde&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;11&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ōishi Chikara&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Oishi Chikara Stout&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Strong stout&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;12&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Muramatsu Sandayū&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Muramaltsu Lager&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Classic lager&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;13&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ōtaka Gengo&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōtaka Gengolden Ale&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Golden ale&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;14&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Sugino Juheiji&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Sugino Juicy Hazy&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Juicy hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;15&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Maebara Bunshichi&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Maebara Bunch-Saison&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;(Libushi collab)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Saison&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;16&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ōishi Sezaemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Saison-mon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Saison&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;17&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Kimura Okaemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kimura Osakemon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ale with sake yeast&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;19&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Okuda Magodayū&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Bitterday IPA&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Bitter West Coast IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;21&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hara Mototoki&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hara Precision Pils&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|German pils&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;22&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Ōishi Yoshitaka&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Sudsy Jr.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Session IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;23&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Yoshida Tokihisa&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Timely Ale&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Barrel-aged strong ale&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;25&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Kayano Sanpei&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Bright IPA&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Fruity IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;28&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Okano Jūemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okano Juicy-mon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;32&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hazama Suke’emon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Juicy Twin&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;33&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Tomomori Suke’emon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Momo-mori&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Peach beer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;38&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hazama Yōsuke&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hazyma Yosuke&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;40&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Hara Heizaemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hara Hazy-mon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Session hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;44&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Kimura Jūemon&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kimura Juicy-man Lager&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Juicy dry-hopped lager&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;46&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Mase Yagorō&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Mase Golden (ゴールデン)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|Golden ale&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Herbs&amp;diff=229</id>
		<title>Herbs</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Herbs&amp;diff=229"/>
		<updated>2025-10-31T04:09:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: /* Sansho */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Shiso ==&lt;br /&gt;
9-14-25 Quick test at home: (Shiso Extract)  紫蘇フレーバー RW-7170 (Shiso Flavor RW-7170) Company: ゴールデンケリーパテント香料株式会社 (Golden Kerry Patent Fragrance Co., Ltd.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a good shiso extract&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Guava and shiso: Nice. The shiso cut through the thick guava taste, the aromas blended nicely. Maybe for a beer put the shiso as a back note though&lt;br /&gt;
* Mango and Shiso: No, just didn&#039;t blend well at all&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Sansho ==&lt;br /&gt;
9-14-25 Quick test at home: (Budo Bros sansho)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Guava and Sansho: I couldn&#039;t smell so well but didn&#039;t stick out as amazing. Worth another test&lt;br /&gt;
* Mango and Sansho: Better than the mango&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hibiscus ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Aka no Uzume did 2kg in the whirlpool with about 700L wort and it turned a nice pink/red. Imparted a nice cherry flavor thats not too strong&lt;br /&gt;
* Aka no Uzume the whirlpool hibiscus lowered the pH but about 0.1-.015&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=228</id>
		<title>Hops</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=228"/>
		<updated>2025-10-19T22:20:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Mash Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park - Janish mash hops 2lbs in 10bbls just to get iron content down (for oxidation) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Thiols - R&#039;&#039;&#039;:&#039;&#039;&#039; Done a bunch of brews with mash hopping combined with Thiolized yeast and the results are fascinating.... &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Saaz mash hop at a rate of 5kg/25hL batch resulted in a beer bursting with grapefruit notes, &lt;br /&gt;
* Cascade mash hop at the same rate (in essentially the same malt and kettle hop profile) was bursting with guava notes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Order of Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB Podcast 202: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
They always do T90s, then cryo, then terpenes. Because basically, vegetal matter, hop oils will absorb to vegetal matter, and the vegetal matter will pull the hop oils out. So each time they dry hop, they use something that has least, less vegetal matter on it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hop Varietal Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Misc: ===&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
** good “base” hop, &#039;&#039;&#039;NZ&#039;&#039;&#039; Is good for top note (CBB - Firestone)&lt;br /&gt;
** CBB 321 - Varietal: El dorado is a great supporting hop, but not on its own&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Bravo Hops&#039;&#039;&#039; (Brulosophy Hop Chronicles)&lt;br /&gt;
** I couldn’t agree more with the results from blind participants, Bravo imparted a deliciously pungent citrus flavor balanced nicely by notes of tropical fruit and a hint of floral character that I think would work just as beautifully in a liberally hopped IPA as it would a less aggressive Amber Ale or Saison. And on top of all that, the bitterness quality was smooth and enjoyable. Bravo is an absolute winner in my book&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Zappa&#039;&#039;&#039; Hop Tips: (from CLS farms) &lt;br /&gt;
** Kettle: Maximize on herbal and spice qualities.&lt;br /&gt;
** Whirlpool: Introduce the wider and multifaceted aromas of Zappa.&lt;br /&gt;
** Dry Hop: Elicit the hop’s more tropical notes of passion fruit and mango, grape, or fruity pebbles.​​&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Complementary Hops:&#039;&#039;&#039; Dependent on which part of the aromatic spectrum you want to focus on. Maximize Zappa®’s tropical notes by combining with El Dorado®, Mosaic or Strata; for red fruits and berries look to Cashmere or Idaho Gem; for citrus a combination of Centennial, Cascade, and Chinook would play well.&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Sabro&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
**CBB 340 - Calusa uses Sabro at about 20% to keep it dialed back (also Sabro has mouthfeel)&lt;br /&gt;
**We found that &#039;&#039;&#039;Talus&#039;&#039;&#039; gives a lot more coconut taste is used in the whirlpool vs dry hop, I assume Sabro is the same&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Książęcy&#039;&#039;&#039;  &lt;br /&gt;
** very coconut, maybe use them in a black ipa?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== C-Hops: ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually dry hop is less than/around 25%&lt;br /&gt;
* Blending the c-hops with the sexy hops makes the aroma stick around more (chinook, Columbus)&lt;br /&gt;
* He thinks it’s something about the oils that makes the aromas stick around more.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Southern Hemisphere ===&lt;br /&gt;
Wibby Loves &#039;&#039;&#039;Waiti hops&#039;&#039;&#039; cause low alpha and high oils and you can add tons to the whirlpool. Adds a new dimension to his hop program.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Breakside - &#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039; needs a very short contact time (48 hours or left)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bitterness ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 192 Burke Gilliam: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Mid boil - chinook, strata, have nice complicated bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Warrior has good citrus piney bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Most single IPAs beers 40-60 IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
* Example: c-Hops would be 10-15% of the kettle and the rest would be other hop varieties (just to give some bite), mainly whirlpool&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusual hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What&#039;s the most unorthodox hop you&#039;ve used in a dry-hop? (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Calypso&#039;&#039;&#039; also has an extremely high quantity of thiols that work well with Berkeley Yeast&#039;s Tropics yeast and OYL&#039;s Cosmic Punch. &lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop an APA with &#039;&#039;&#039;Fuggles&#039;&#039;&#039;, Blew my mind. &lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Strisselspalt&#039;&#039;&#039;. Used it in a Sencha IPA. Paired it with Liberty and Vic Secret. I really liked the outcome. &lt;br /&gt;
* We just dry hopped a Vienna Pils with &#039;&#039;&#039;Saphir.&#039;&#039;&#039; Not sure if that counts or not. …. Not really, I mean, that&#039;s what Firestone Walker Pivo Pils is dry hopped with, right? &lt;br /&gt;
* We’ve thrown &#039;&#039;&#039;saaz&#039;&#039;&#039; in the dry hopping mix at twice the dosing rate to some new world varietals for a pale and we got pretty interesting matcha green tea vibes, was pretty cool, definitely a one off concept.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Don’t sleep on Idaho Gem.&#039;&#039;&#039; Idaho gem and strata, that is a combo made in heaven and then you get a better idea what gem is like.  I always go heavy Idaho gem so I’d say 60-40. whirlpool: it also has a good amount of survivable flavors/aromas similar to Idaho 7  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Experience with new Styrian hop varieties? (Dragon, Wolf, Eagle, etc.) (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian wolf is fantastic. Very fruity when used for dry hop. &lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian Cardinal is pretty cool. Definitely has the apple/strawberry thing as advertised as well as some apricot noble spice. &lt;br /&gt;
** Just used Styrian wolf in a saison during whirlpool. The aromatics and flavours are quite distinct; elderflower and tropical fruits are present but I feel they are complimented by a nice Noble hope spice which brings a full flavoured feel to the finished product.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusng Hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Brewer&#039;s Perspectives: Unsung Hops (Beer and Brewing Sean Buchan )&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“In supporting roles, we tend to use a good amount of &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039;,” says Sean Buchan of Cerebral Brewing, “but in small amounts—10–20 percent of the hops bill. It can get excessively sweet on you really quick, especially if you combine it with other hops that have that perceived sweetness, so we tend to use it in conjunction with other hops that will tame that back a bit. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“We’ve been using a lot more Huell Melon and Hallertau Blanc in IPAs, and the &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Huell Melon/Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; combo has worked really well for us. It tends to bring out more of the melon notes already there in Galaxy, and we get more pineapple and honeydew melon. Similarly, &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Hallertau Blanc and Motueka&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; work well together to complement bright hops, and we use it with Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy as well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Our Remote Island IPA is &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy, Hallertau Blanc, and Motueka,&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; with Galaxy being 50 percent and the other two the remaining 50 percent. They work really well to provide a lot more depth and bring out more of the bright pineapple and a hint of lemongrass that I always enjoy. It adds a bit of complexity to the hops bill, so it’s not just one big fruit note.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“I love Columbus, and it works well with Citra at about &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;80 percent Citra, 20 percent Columbus&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;. We use heavier Columbus in the whirpool, then flip the ratio in the dry hop. The Citra lot we have right now is bright with a ton of lychee, passionfruit, and other fun acidic fruits. But in everything we do, I don’t want the fruit to dominate everything else, so Columbus brings that back a bit with a touch of classic citrus and a little bit of dank. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dosage Rates ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== American IPA and Hazy IPA ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reddit- Curious what everyone&#039;s dry hop ratio is per bbl based on their standard American IPA and Hazy IPA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* For us, we do 2.5lbs/bbl for American IPA and 3.5lbs/bbl for our Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
* Diminishing returns are real. That said, go 4-5# per barrel on a 2 stage DH for hazys. Whirlpool hop extracts and cryo/t-45s can be great too.&lt;br /&gt;
* After working somewhere that did upwards of #6.5/bbl on hazy I&#039;ve found the sweet spot between #2-#3/bbl. At #2.2/bbl my Citra hazy is just as juicy and hop forward as the #4.5/bbl beer I use to have to brew.&lt;br /&gt;
* We go with 3#/bbl. Though when we get into 2-stage/double dry hopping it&#039;s generally around 5#/bbl&lt;br /&gt;
* Typically around 5lb/bbl on our hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* Around 5 for hazy, around 3-4 for anything else&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually 3 for west coast, 6+ for hazies. Hotside usually looks like 1.5-2.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.75-2.25 - East/West Coast 2.25-2.75 – Hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5kg (3.3lbs)/bbl for hazies, 1kg (2.2lbs)/bbl other IPAs&lt;br /&gt;
* American or west coast we are around 2#/bbl. For hazy our standard is 6# (flagship is 4 and we’ve gone up to 10)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5lb in the kettle, 3lbs dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
* Biggest positive effect I’ve seen on our proverbial bang-per-buck is doing the (now almost industry standard it seems) soft crash to 55F for 1-2 days, harvesting yeast after first 14 hours, doing initial dump, then a second dump day 2, then dry-hopping at that 55F. Haven’t noticed too much difference between holding the beer on those dry hops for 2 days vs 5 days, even with twice daily CO2 rousing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Varietal:&#039;&#039;&#039;1.5-2lbs/bbl for whirlpool. Usually 2-3 varieties - CBB 321&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Parish:&#039;&#039;&#039; No hops in bbl. About 1lb/bbl at flameout Then cool below 180 and add 3lb/bbl for whirlpool (takes about 30 minutes to get to 180) - CBB 349&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Sapwood:&#039;&#039;&#039;Whirlpool is close to 2lbs/bbl - CBB 270&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lawson:&#039;&#039;&#039; 1-2lbs/bbl dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Breakside -&#039;&#039;&#039; if they don’t dry hop twice then they felt like lots of hops don’t matter. Low dry hop amounts for each charge. Citra is always good for the second or late hop, for the top notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CBB Hazy Now:&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Green Cheek - 165 coolpool. Don’t go over 1lb/bbl in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* North Park - also 1lb/bbl due to constrictions&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park&#039;&#039;&#039; - Fidens - does 2lb/bbl whirlpool, dry hops in small quantities over a few days. And they don’t rouse&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;360 Burlington&#039;&#039;&#039;: 30bbl: w.pool - 22lb (9.9kg).  dry hop - 143 lb (64kg - 18 g/L)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop saturation point: R -&#039;&#039;&#039; The general wisdom seems to be the higher the abv the more you can saturate the beer with hops. We’ve got great results at 5-6g/L on a 5% beer but we’re at 8g/L IPAs and pretty much double that for DIPA’s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== WC PILS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Firestone? Does about 1.5lb/bbl dry hop and higher abv (5.9%) for balance (lager yeast you don’t get esters to fill out the profile) Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Survivables ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Survivables.png|none|frame]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Reverse Engineering Cryo Pop ===&lt;br /&gt;
(TRI-2304CR) Blend (thirdleap brewing&#039;&#039;&#039;)&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A blend of 46% Idaho 7 / 25% Citra / 24% Loral / 5% Talus is closest to TRI-2304CR &lt;br /&gt;
* a blend of 65% Idaho 7 / 33% Mosaic / 2% Citra maximizes each “survivable” compound level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Misc Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== CBB 270 - sapwood ===&lt;br /&gt;
* Hops dry hopped at a lower ph have a generic hoppines but using more potent hops like Nelson or riwaka can stand up to it more&lt;br /&gt;
*  Dry hop sub 40 degrees F (they started warmer but studies show warmer pulls out stuff like myrcene)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== CBB 84 Hop Butcher for the World ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop Combinations&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* One combo they tried that they really liked recently is &#039;&#039;&#039;Amarillo, Strata, and Galaxy.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy Usage&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* For Galaxy, they use about 15–20%.&lt;br /&gt;
* None on the hot side, all in the dry hop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Dry Hopping Approach&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They do one big dry hop at 1–2 Plato before finishing.&lt;br /&gt;
* Then they cap it.&lt;br /&gt;
* They don’t rouse; they let the finishing fermentation rouse it.&lt;br /&gt;
* No second dry hop.&lt;br /&gt;
* Every once in a while, if there’s no aroma, they’ll try to rouse or bump it up. But the vast majority of beers: no rousing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop Varieties – Cryo vs T90&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They love &#039;&#039;&#039;Equinox&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;(Ekuanot) Cryo:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
** T90 pellets can give vegetal green pepper flavor if used too much., cCryo is super tropical and lemon.&lt;br /&gt;
* They also like &#039;&#039;&#039;Mosaic Cryo&#039;&#039;&#039; for hazies:&lt;br /&gt;
** Mosaic T90 can sometimes give a green flavor, Mosaic Cryo is just pure fruit.&lt;br /&gt;
** But they do like Mosaic T90 for West Coast, because they want some of that green, stank flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=227</id>
		<title>Hops</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=227"/>
		<updated>2025-10-18T06:07:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Mash Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park - Janish mash hops 2lbs in 10bbls just to get iron content down (for oxidation) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Thiols - R&#039;&#039;&#039;:&#039;&#039;&#039; Done a bunch of brews with mash hopping combined with Thiolized yeast and the results are fascinating.... &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Saaz mash hop at a rate of 5kg/25hL batch resulted in a beer bursting with grapefruit notes, &lt;br /&gt;
* Cascade mash hop at the same rate (in essentially the same malt and kettle hop profile) was bursting with guava notes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Order of Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB Podcast 202: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
They always do T90s, then cryo, then terpenes. Because basically, vegetal matter, hop oils will absorb to vegetal matter, and the vegetal matter will pull the hop oils out. So each time they dry hop, they use something that has least, less vegetal matter on it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hop Varietal Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Misc: ===&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
** good “base” hop, &#039;&#039;&#039;NZ&#039;&#039;&#039; Is good for top note (CBB - Firestone)&lt;br /&gt;
** CBB 321 - Varietal: El dorado is a great supporting hop, but not on its own&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Bravo Hops&#039;&#039;&#039; (Brulosophy Hop Chronicles)&lt;br /&gt;
** I couldn’t agree more with the results from blind participants, Bravo imparted a deliciously pungent citrus flavor balanced nicely by notes of tropical fruit and a hint of floral character that I think would work just as beautifully in a liberally hopped IPA as it would a less aggressive Amber Ale or Saison. And on top of all that, the bitterness quality was smooth and enjoyable. Bravo is an absolute winner in my book&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Zappa&#039;&#039;&#039; Hop Tips: (from CLS farms) &lt;br /&gt;
** Kettle: Maximize on herbal and spice qualities.&lt;br /&gt;
** Whirlpool: Introduce the wider and multifaceted aromas of Zappa.&lt;br /&gt;
** Dry Hop: Elicit the hop’s more tropical notes of passion fruit and mango, grape, or fruity pebbles.​​&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Complementary Hops:&#039;&#039;&#039; Dependent on which part of the aromatic spectrum you want to focus on. Maximize Zappa®’s tropical notes by combining with El Dorado®, Mosaic or Strata; for red fruits and berries look to Cashmere or Idaho Gem; for citrus a combination of Centennial, Cascade, and Chinook would play well.&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Sabro&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
**CBB 340 - Calusa uses Sabro at about 20% to keep it dialed back (also Sabro has mouthfeel)&lt;br /&gt;
**We found that &#039;&#039;&#039;Talus&#039;&#039;&#039; gives a lot more coconut taste is used in the whirlpool vs dry hop, I assume Sabro is the same&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== C-Hops: ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually dry hop is less than/around 25%&lt;br /&gt;
* Blending the c-hops with the sexy hops makes the aroma stick around more (chinook, Columbus)&lt;br /&gt;
* He thinks it’s something about the oils that makes the aromas stick around more.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Southern Hemisphere ===&lt;br /&gt;
Wibby Loves &#039;&#039;&#039;Waiti hops&#039;&#039;&#039; cause low alpha and high oils and you can add tons to the whirlpool. Adds a new dimension to his hop program.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Breakside - &#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039; needs a very short contact time (48 hours or left)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bitterness ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 192 Burke Gilliam: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Mid boil - chinook, strata, have nice complicated bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Warrior has good citrus piney bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Most single IPAs beers 40-60 IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
* Example: c-Hops would be 10-15% of the kettle and the rest would be other hop varieties (just to give some bite), mainly whirlpool&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusual hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What&#039;s the most unorthodox hop you&#039;ve used in a dry-hop? (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Calypso&#039;&#039;&#039; also has an extremely high quantity of thiols that work well with Berkeley Yeast&#039;s Tropics yeast and OYL&#039;s Cosmic Punch. &lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop an APA with &#039;&#039;&#039;Fuggles&#039;&#039;&#039;, Blew my mind. &lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Strisselspalt&#039;&#039;&#039;. Used it in a Sencha IPA. Paired it with Liberty and Vic Secret. I really liked the outcome. &lt;br /&gt;
* We just dry hopped a Vienna Pils with &#039;&#039;&#039;Saphir.&#039;&#039;&#039; Not sure if that counts or not. …. Not really, I mean, that&#039;s what Firestone Walker Pivo Pils is dry hopped with, right? &lt;br /&gt;
* We’ve thrown &#039;&#039;&#039;saaz&#039;&#039;&#039; in the dry hopping mix at twice the dosing rate to some new world varietals for a pale and we got pretty interesting matcha green tea vibes, was pretty cool, definitely a one off concept.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Don’t sleep on Idaho Gem.&#039;&#039;&#039; Idaho gem and strata, that is a combo made in heaven and then you get a better idea what gem is like.  I always go heavy Idaho gem so I’d say 60-40. whirlpool: it also has a good amount of survivable flavors/aromas similar to Idaho 7  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Experience with new Styrian hop varieties? (Dragon, Wolf, Eagle, etc.) (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian wolf is fantastic. Very fruity when used for dry hop. &lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian Cardinal is pretty cool. Definitely has the apple/strawberry thing as advertised as well as some apricot noble spice. &lt;br /&gt;
** Just used Styrian wolf in a saison during whirlpool. The aromatics and flavours are quite distinct; elderflower and tropical fruits are present but I feel they are complimented by a nice Noble hope spice which brings a full flavoured feel to the finished product.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusng Hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Brewer&#039;s Perspectives: Unsung Hops (Beer and Brewing Sean Buchan )&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“In supporting roles, we tend to use a good amount of &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039;,” says Sean Buchan of Cerebral Brewing, “but in small amounts—10–20 percent of the hops bill. It can get excessively sweet on you really quick, especially if you combine it with other hops that have that perceived sweetness, so we tend to use it in conjunction with other hops that will tame that back a bit. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“We’ve been using a lot more Huell Melon and Hallertau Blanc in IPAs, and the &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Huell Melon/Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; combo has worked really well for us. It tends to bring out more of the melon notes already there in Galaxy, and we get more pineapple and honeydew melon. Similarly, &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Hallertau Blanc and Motueka&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; work well together to complement bright hops, and we use it with Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy as well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Our Remote Island IPA is &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy, Hallertau Blanc, and Motueka,&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; with Galaxy being 50 percent and the other two the remaining 50 percent. They work really well to provide a lot more depth and bring out more of the bright pineapple and a hint of lemongrass that I always enjoy. It adds a bit of complexity to the hops bill, so it’s not just one big fruit note.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“I love Columbus, and it works well with Citra at about &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;80 percent Citra, 20 percent Columbus&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;. We use heavier Columbus in the whirpool, then flip the ratio in the dry hop. The Citra lot we have right now is bright with a ton of lychee, passionfruit, and other fun acidic fruits. But in everything we do, I don’t want the fruit to dominate everything else, so Columbus brings that back a bit with a touch of classic citrus and a little bit of dank. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dosage Rates ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== American IPA and Hazy IPA ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reddit- Curious what everyone&#039;s dry hop ratio is per bbl based on their standard American IPA and Hazy IPA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* For us, we do 2.5lbs/bbl for American IPA and 3.5lbs/bbl for our Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
* Diminishing returns are real. That said, go 4-5# per barrel on a 2 stage DH for hazys. Whirlpool hop extracts and cryo/t-45s can be great too.&lt;br /&gt;
* After working somewhere that did upwards of #6.5/bbl on hazy I&#039;ve found the sweet spot between #2-#3/bbl. At #2.2/bbl my Citra hazy is just as juicy and hop forward as the #4.5/bbl beer I use to have to brew.&lt;br /&gt;
* We go with 3#/bbl. Though when we get into 2-stage/double dry hopping it&#039;s generally around 5#/bbl&lt;br /&gt;
* Typically around 5lb/bbl on our hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* Around 5 for hazy, around 3-4 for anything else&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually 3 for west coast, 6+ for hazies. Hotside usually looks like 1.5-2.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.75-2.25 - East/West Coast 2.25-2.75 – Hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5kg (3.3lbs)/bbl for hazies, 1kg (2.2lbs)/bbl other IPAs&lt;br /&gt;
* American or west coast we are around 2#/bbl. For hazy our standard is 6# (flagship is 4 and we’ve gone up to 10)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5lb in the kettle, 3lbs dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
* Biggest positive effect I’ve seen on our proverbial bang-per-buck is doing the (now almost industry standard it seems) soft crash to 55F for 1-2 days, harvesting yeast after first 14 hours, doing initial dump, then a second dump day 2, then dry-hopping at that 55F. Haven’t noticed too much difference between holding the beer on those dry hops for 2 days vs 5 days, even with twice daily CO2 rousing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Varietal:&#039;&#039;&#039;1.5-2lbs/bbl for whirlpool. Usually 2-3 varieties - CBB 321&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Parish:&#039;&#039;&#039; No hops in bbl. About 1lb/bbl at flameout Then cool below 180 and add 3lb/bbl for whirlpool (takes about 30 minutes to get to 180) - CBB 349&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Sapwood:&#039;&#039;&#039;Whirlpool is close to 2lbs/bbl - CBB 270&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lawson:&#039;&#039;&#039; 1-2lbs/bbl dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Breakside -&#039;&#039;&#039; if they don’t dry hop twice then they felt like lots of hops don’t matter. Low dry hop amounts for each charge. Citra is always good for the second or late hop, for the top notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CBB Hazy Now:&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Green Cheek - 165 coolpool. Don’t go over 1lb/bbl in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* North Park - also 1lb/bbl due to constrictions&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park&#039;&#039;&#039; - Fidens - does 2lb/bbl whirlpool, dry hops in small quantities over a few days. And they don’t rouse&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;360 Burlington&#039;&#039;&#039;: 30bbl: w.pool - 22lb (9.9kg).  dry hop - 143 lb (64kg - 18 g/L)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop saturation point: R -&#039;&#039;&#039; The general wisdom seems to be the higher the abv the more you can saturate the beer with hops. We’ve got great results at 5-6g/L on a 5% beer but we’re at 8g/L IPAs and pretty much double that for DIPA’s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== WC PILS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Firestone? Does about 1.5lb/bbl dry hop and higher abv (5.9%) for balance (lager yeast you don’t get esters to fill out the profile) Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Survivables ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Survivables.png|none|frame]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Reverse Engineering Cryo Pop ===&lt;br /&gt;
(TRI-2304CR) Blend (thirdleap brewing&#039;&#039;&#039;)&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A blend of 46% Idaho 7 / 25% Citra / 24% Loral / 5% Talus is closest to TRI-2304CR &lt;br /&gt;
* a blend of 65% Idaho 7 / 33% Mosaic / 2% Citra maximizes each “survivable” compound level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Misc Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== CBB 270 - sapwood ===&lt;br /&gt;
* Hops dry hopped at a lower ph have a generic hoppines but using more potent hops like Nelson or riwaka can stand up to it more&lt;br /&gt;
*  Dry hop sub 40 degrees F (they started warmer but studies show warmer pulls out stuff like myrcene)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== CBB 84 Hop Butcher for the World ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop Combinations&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* One combo they tried that they really liked recently is &#039;&#039;&#039;Amarillo, Strata, and Galaxy.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy Usage&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* For Galaxy, they use about 15–20%.&lt;br /&gt;
* None on the hot side, all in the dry hop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Dry Hopping Approach&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They do one big dry hop at 1–2 Plato before finishing.&lt;br /&gt;
* Then they cap it.&lt;br /&gt;
* They don’t rouse; they let the finishing fermentation rouse it.&lt;br /&gt;
* No second dry hop.&lt;br /&gt;
* Every once in a while, if there’s no aroma, they’ll try to rouse or bump it up. But the vast majority of beers: no rousing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop Varieties – Cryo vs T90&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They love &#039;&#039;&#039;Equinox&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;(Ekuanot) Cryo:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
** T90 pellets can give vegetal green pepper flavor if used too much., cCryo is super tropical and lemon.&lt;br /&gt;
* They also like &#039;&#039;&#039;Mosaic Cryo&#039;&#039;&#039; for hazies:&lt;br /&gt;
** Mosaic T90 can sometimes give a green flavor, Mosaic Cryo is just pure fruit.&lt;br /&gt;
** But they do like Mosaic T90 for West Coast, because they want some of that green, stank flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Fruit&amp;diff=226</id>
		<title>Fruit</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Fruit&amp;diff=226"/>
		<updated>2025-10-18T06:02:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== General Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB Podcast 276: WIley Roots&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They found what works for them is about two-thirds puree, and about one-third fruit concentrate, and then a little touch of, like, natural flavoring or even beyond natural flavoring. They might use, like, freeze-dried fruit powder.&lt;br /&gt;
* For using potassium sorbate, they said for a high pH beer the maximum is about 30 grams per liter. For a low pH beer, they’ll use up to 100 grams per barrel when they want to make sure it’s totally killing the yeast. On higher pH, above 3.8 pH, you should use less because it starts to taste like geranium.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They will, they&#039;ll add like if they have some unpasteurized or unsanitized stuff like just fresh fruits they&#039;ve ground up or citrus peel or something, they will put it in at high krausen, like on day three, so in that way they feel the yeast will outcompete any, you know, bacteria or anything, any riders-on is what they said.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Fruit]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Fruit&amp;diff=225</id>
		<title>Fruit</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Fruit&amp;diff=225"/>
		<updated>2025-10-18T06:02:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: Created page with &amp;quot;== General Notes == CBB Podcast 276: WIley Roots  * They found what works for them is about two-thirds puree, and about one-third fruit concentrate, and then a little touch of, like, natural flavoring or even beyond natural flavoring. They might use, like, freeze-dried fruit powder. * For using potassium sorbate, they said for a high pH beer the maximum is about 30 grams per liter. For a low pH beer, they’ll use up to 100 grams per barrel when they want to make sure it...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== General Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB Podcast 276: WIley Roots&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They found what works for them is about two-thirds puree, and about one-third fruit concentrate, and then a little touch of, like, natural flavoring or even beyond natural flavoring. They might use, like, freeze-dried fruit powder.&lt;br /&gt;
* For using potassium sorbate, they said for a high pH beer the maximum is about 30 grams per liter. For a low pH beer, they’ll use up to 100 grams per barrel when they want to make sure it’s totally killing the yeast. On higher pH, above 3.8 pH, you should use less because it starts to taste like geranium.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* They will, they&#039;ll add like if they have some unpasteurized or unsanitized stuff like just fresh fruits they&#039;ve ground up or citrus peel or something, they will put it in at high krausen, like on day three, so in that way they feel the yeast will outcompete any, you know, bacteria or anything, any riders-on is what they said.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=224</id>
		<title>Hops</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=224"/>
		<updated>2025-10-18T06:00:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Mash Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park - Janish mash hops 2lbs in 10bbls just to get iron content down (for oxidation) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Thiols - R&#039;&#039;&#039;:&#039;&#039;&#039; Done a bunch of brews with mash hopping combined with Thiolized yeast and the results are fascinating.... &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Saaz mash hop at a rate of 5kg/25hL batch resulted in a beer bursting with grapefruit notes, &lt;br /&gt;
* Cascade mash hop at the same rate (in essentially the same malt and kettle hop profile) was bursting with guava notes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Order of Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB Podcast 202: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
They always do T90s, then cryo, then terpenes. Because basically, vegetal matter, hop oils will absorb to vegetal matter, and the vegetal matter will pull the hop oils out. So each time they dry hop, they use something that has least, less vegetal matter on it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hop Varietal Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Misc: ===&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
** good “base” hop, &#039;&#039;&#039;NZ&#039;&#039;&#039; Is good for top note (CBB - Firestone)&lt;br /&gt;
** CBB 321 - Varietal: El dorado is a great supporting hop, but not on its own&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Bravo Hops&#039;&#039;&#039; (Brulosophy Hop Chronicles)&lt;br /&gt;
** I couldn’t agree more with the results from blind participants, Bravo imparted a deliciously pungent citrus flavor balanced nicely by notes of tropical fruit and a hint of floral character that I think would work just as beautifully in a liberally hopped IPA as it would a less aggressive Amber Ale or Saison. And on top of all that, the bitterness quality was smooth and enjoyable. Bravo is an absolute winner in my book&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Zappa&#039;&#039;&#039; Hop Tips: (from CLS farms) &lt;br /&gt;
** Kettle: Maximize on herbal and spice qualities.&lt;br /&gt;
** Whirlpool: Introduce the wider and multifaceted aromas of Zappa.&lt;br /&gt;
** Dry Hop: Elicit the hop’s more tropical notes of passion fruit and mango, grape, or fruity pebbles.​​&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Complementary Hops:&#039;&#039;&#039; Dependent on which part of the aromatic spectrum you want to focus on. Maximize Zappa®’s tropical notes by combining with El Dorado®, Mosaic or Strata; for red fruits and berries look to Cashmere or Idaho Gem; for citrus a combination of Centennial, Cascade, and Chinook would play well.&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Sabro&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
**CBB 340 - Calusa uses Sabro at about 20% to keep it dialed back (also Sabro has mouthfeel)&lt;br /&gt;
**We found that &#039;&#039;&#039;Talus&#039;&#039;&#039; gives a lot more coconut taste is used in the whirlpool vs dry hop, I assume Sabro is the same&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== C-Hops: ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually dry hop is less than/around 25%&lt;br /&gt;
* Blending the c-hops with the sexy hops makes the aroma stick around more (chinook, Columbus)&lt;br /&gt;
* He thinks it’s something about the oils that makes the aromas stick around more.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Southern Hemisphere ===&lt;br /&gt;
Wibby Loves &#039;&#039;&#039;Waiti hops&#039;&#039;&#039; cause low alpha and high oils and you can add tons to the whirlpool. Adds a new dimension to his hop program.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Breakside - &#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039; needs a very short contact time (48 hours or left)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bitterness ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 192 Burke Gilliam: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Mid boil - chinook, strata, have nice complicated bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Warrior has good citrus piney bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Most single IPAs beers 40-60 IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
* Example: c-Hops would be 10-15% of the kettle and the rest would be other hop varieties (just to give some bite), mainly whirlpool&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusual hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What&#039;s the most unorthodox hop you&#039;ve used in a dry-hop? (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Calypso&#039;&#039;&#039; also has an extremely high quantity of thiols that work well with Berkeley Yeast&#039;s Tropics yeast and OYL&#039;s Cosmic Punch. &lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop an APA with &#039;&#039;&#039;Fuggles&#039;&#039;&#039;, Blew my mind. &lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Strisselspalt&#039;&#039;&#039;. Used it in a Sencha IPA. Paired it with Liberty and Vic Secret. I really liked the outcome. &lt;br /&gt;
* We just dry hopped a Vienna Pils with &#039;&#039;&#039;Saphir.&#039;&#039;&#039; Not sure if that counts or not. …. Not really, I mean, that&#039;s what Firestone Walker Pivo Pils is dry hopped with, right? &lt;br /&gt;
* We’ve thrown &#039;&#039;&#039;saaz&#039;&#039;&#039; in the dry hopping mix at twice the dosing rate to some new world varietals for a pale and we got pretty interesting matcha green tea vibes, was pretty cool, definitely a one off concept.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Don’t sleep on Idaho Gem.&#039;&#039;&#039; Idaho gem and strata, that is a combo made in heaven and then you get a better idea what gem is like.  I always go heavy Idaho gem so I’d say 60-40. whirlpool: it also has a good amount of survivable flavors/aromas similar to Idaho 7  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Experience with new Styrian hop varieties? (Dragon, Wolf, Eagle, etc.) (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian wolf is fantastic. Very fruity when used for dry hop. &lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian Cardinal is pretty cool. Definitely has the apple/strawberry thing as advertised as well as some apricot noble spice. &lt;br /&gt;
** Just used Styrian wolf in a saison during whirlpool. The aromatics and flavours are quite distinct; elderflower and tropical fruits are present but I feel they are complimented by a nice Noble hope spice which brings a full flavoured feel to the finished product.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusng Hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Brewer&#039;s Perspectives: Unsung Hops (Beer and Brewing Sean Buchan )&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“In supporting roles, we tend to use a good amount of &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039;,” says Sean Buchan of Cerebral Brewing, “but in small amounts—10–20 percent of the hops bill. It can get excessively sweet on you really quick, especially if you combine it with other hops that have that perceived sweetness, so we tend to use it in conjunction with other hops that will tame that back a bit. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“We’ve been using a lot more Huell Melon and Hallertau Blanc in IPAs, and the &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Huell Melon/Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; combo has worked really well for us. It tends to bring out more of the melon notes already there in Galaxy, and we get more pineapple and honeydew melon. Similarly, &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Hallertau Blanc and Motueka&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; work well together to complement bright hops, and we use it with Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy as well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Our Remote Island IPA is &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy, Hallertau Blanc, and Motueka,&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; with Galaxy being 50 percent and the other two the remaining 50 percent. They work really well to provide a lot more depth and bring out more of the bright pineapple and a hint of lemongrass that I always enjoy. It adds a bit of complexity to the hops bill, so it’s not just one big fruit note.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“I love Columbus, and it works well with Citra at about &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;80 percent Citra, 20 percent Columbus&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;. We use heavier Columbus in the whirpool, then flip the ratio in the dry hop. The Citra lot we have right now is bright with a ton of lychee, passionfruit, and other fun acidic fruits. But in everything we do, I don’t want the fruit to dominate everything else, so Columbus brings that back a bit with a touch of classic citrus and a little bit of dank. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dosage Rates ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== American IPA and Hazy IPA ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reddit- Curious what everyone&#039;s dry hop ratio is per bbl based on their standard American IPA and Hazy IPA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* For us, we do 2.5lbs/bbl for American IPA and 3.5lbs/bbl for our Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
* Diminishing returns are real. That said, go 4-5# per barrel on a 2 stage DH for hazys. Whirlpool hop extracts and cryo/t-45s can be great too.&lt;br /&gt;
* After working somewhere that did upwards of #6.5/bbl on hazy I&#039;ve found the sweet spot between #2-#3/bbl. At #2.2/bbl my Citra hazy is just as juicy and hop forward as the #4.5/bbl beer I use to have to brew.&lt;br /&gt;
* We go with 3#/bbl. Though when we get into 2-stage/double dry hopping it&#039;s generally around 5#/bbl&lt;br /&gt;
* Typically around 5lb/bbl on our hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* Around 5 for hazy, around 3-4 for anything else&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually 3 for west coast, 6+ for hazies. Hotside usually looks like 1.5-2.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.75-2.25 - East/West Coast 2.25-2.75 – Hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5kg (3.3lbs)/bbl for hazies, 1kg (2.2lbs)/bbl other IPAs&lt;br /&gt;
* American or west coast we are around 2#/bbl. For hazy our standard is 6# (flagship is 4 and we’ve gone up to 10)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5lb in the kettle, 3lbs dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
* Biggest positive effect I’ve seen on our proverbial bang-per-buck is doing the (now almost industry standard it seems) soft crash to 55F for 1-2 days, harvesting yeast after first 14 hours, doing initial dump, then a second dump day 2, then dry-hopping at that 55F. Haven’t noticed too much difference between holding the beer on those dry hops for 2 days vs 5 days, even with twice daily CO2 rousing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Varietal:&#039;&#039;&#039;1.5-2lbs/bbl for whirlpool. Usually 2-3 varieties - CBB 321&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Parish:&#039;&#039;&#039; No hops in bbl. About 1lb/bbl at flameout Then cool below 180 and add 3lb/bbl for whirlpool (takes about 30 minutes to get to 180) - CBB 349&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Sapwood:&#039;&#039;&#039;Whirlpool is close to 2lbs/bbl - CBB 270&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lawson:&#039;&#039;&#039; 1-2lbs/bbl dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Breakside -&#039;&#039;&#039; if they don’t dry hop twice then they felt like lots of hops don’t matter. Low dry hop amounts for each charge. Citra is always good for the second or late hop, for the top notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CBB Hazy Now:&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Green Cheek - 165 coolpool. Don’t go over 1lb/bbl in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* North Park - also 1lb/bbl due to constrictions&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park&#039;&#039;&#039; - Fidens - does 2lb/bbl whirlpool, dry hops in small quantities over a few days. And they don’t rouse&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;360 Burlington&#039;&#039;&#039;: 30bbl: w.pool - 22lb (9.9kg).  dry hop - 143 lb (64kg - 18 g/L)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop saturation point: R -&#039;&#039;&#039; The general wisdom seems to be the higher the abv the more you can saturate the beer with hops. We’ve got great results at 5-6g/L on a 5% beer but we’re at 8g/L IPAs and pretty much double that for DIPA’s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== WC PILS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Firestone? Does about 1.5lb/bbl dry hop and higher abv (5.9%) for balance (lager yeast you don’t get esters to fill out the profile) Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Survivables ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Survivables.png|none|frame]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Reverse Engineering Cryo Pop ===&lt;br /&gt;
(TRI-2304CR) Blend (thirdleap brewing&#039;&#039;&#039;)&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A blend of 46% Idaho 7 / 25% Citra / 24% Loral / 5% Talus is closest to TRI-2304CR &lt;br /&gt;
* a blend of 65% Idaho 7 / 33% Mosaic / 2% Citra maximizes each “survivable” compound level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Misc Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CBB 270 - sapwood&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hops dry hopped at a lower ph have a generic hoppines but using more potent hops like Nelson or riwaka can stand up to it more&lt;br /&gt;
*  Dry hop sub 40 degrees F (they started warmer but studies show warmer pulls out stuff like myrcene)&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Fruit_Flavoring&amp;diff=223</id>
		<title>Fruit Flavoring</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Fruit_Flavoring&amp;diff=223"/>
		<updated>2025-09-27T05:57:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: Created page with &amp;quot;== Peach ==  ==== momono kai for small batch ====  * ・キャップフリュイ　パッションフルーツピューレ　2㎏ * ・キャップフリュイ　ペーシュ（白桃）ピューレ　2㎏ * ・YOKOKAWA　ピーチフレーバーB4541 * ・ゴールデンケリー　オーチャードピーチ  == Pineapple == https://www.takatakoryo.co.jp/ (from Onishii)   Pineapple 51797 is good, fresh pineapple  51793 is not as pure pineappl  == Watermelon == takatako...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Peach ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== momono kai for small batch ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* ・キャップフリュイ　パッションフルーツピューレ　2㎏&lt;br /&gt;
* ・キャップフリュイ　ペーシュ（白桃）ピューレ　2㎏&lt;br /&gt;
* ・YOKOKAWA　ピーチフレーバーB4541&lt;br /&gt;
* ・ゴールデンケリー　オーチャードピーチ&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Pineapple ==&lt;br /&gt;
https://www.takatakoryo.co.jp/ (from Onishii) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pineapple 51797 is good, fresh pineapple&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
51793 is not as pure pineappl&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Watermelon ==&lt;br /&gt;
takatakoryo suica 52729 is the only one in all our samples that smelled fresh. Others said it was like suica popsicle cause they said watermelon doesn&#039;t have a smell in nature&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Blueberry ==&lt;br /&gt;
takatakoryo blueberry 51980 wasn&#039;t good. they said too candy, for me it was too deep dark blueberry&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Our_Beer_Notes&amp;diff=222</id>
		<title>Our Beer Notes</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Our_Beer_Notes&amp;diff=222"/>
		<updated>2025-09-14T10:20:37Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: /* Momonokai – Passion Fruit Peach */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;=== Combustion – Smoked Porter ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Turned out really nice.&lt;br /&gt;
* Ended up with a very high finishing Plato (don’t remember the exact number, need to look it up).&lt;br /&gt;
* The sweetness from the higher finish actually worked well.&lt;br /&gt;
* If remaking: aim for a finish higher than the original plan, but not as high as this batch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Southern Tides / Nomocraft Pale ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Our version was quite nice.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possible candidate for a remake.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Momo no kai – Passion Fruit Peach ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Very well-received by HopHopka people.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test batch: used the nicer peach → much better.&lt;br /&gt;
* Full batch: used cheaper peach → not as good.&lt;br /&gt;
* Conclusion: always use the nicer peach.&lt;br /&gt;
* Yeast: used &#039;&#039;&#039;thiol yeast&#039;&#039;&#039; in the test batch but not in the full batch. Want to use that again, as it added something extra.&lt;br /&gt;
* Style/method: think it might have been a kettle sour? Not sure. Would like to do a kettle sour in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== momono kai for big batch ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* ・白桃ピューレ（国産）　18.5㎏×3缶&lt;br /&gt;
* ・ベトナム産パッションフルーツジュース　18㎏×３缶&lt;br /&gt;
* ・YOKOKAWA　ピーチフレーバーB4541　1kg&lt;br /&gt;
* ・ゴールデンケリー　オーチャードピーチ　1kg&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== momono kai for small batch ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* ・キャップフリュイ　パッションフルーツピューレ　2㎏&lt;br /&gt;
* ・キャップフリュイ　ペーシュ（白桃）ピューレ　2㎏&lt;br /&gt;
* ・YOKOKAWA　ピーチフレーバーB4541&lt;br /&gt;
* ・ゴールデンケリー　オーチャードピーチ&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sake Yeast Beer Tests ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Helles + Sake Yeast:&#039;&#039;&#039;   Started as a nice variation, but over time the sake character disappeared and it ended up tasting like a regular helles.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Sake Yeast + Koji Rice in Fermenter:&#039;&#039;&#039;   Produced nice flavors, but balance is tricky — need the right alcohol level without thinning out the body too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Sancho Gose (World Beer Cup Winner):&#039;&#039;&#039;   Attempted to ferment with sake yeast → didn’t fully work.   After thinking it was finished, added koji rice in the fermenter.   Didn’t ferment much further, but improved the sake character.   → Idea: test adding sake rice/koji rice post-fermentation again.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;QA23 Wine Yeast + Sake Rice in Fermenter:&#039;&#039;&#039;   Came out really nice.   Flavor: phenolic, citrusy, farmhouse-style funk, but not unpleasant.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Berry Belly – Blueberry Beer ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Came out a little too thick.&lt;br /&gt;
* Would have preferred to kettle sour and lighten the body.&lt;br /&gt;
* Tonka beans were a highlight — nougat-like flavor.   → Want to reuse tonka beans in a different context, maybe a dark beer (brown ale, porter, etc.).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Nonic – English Pale Ale ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Really nice.&lt;br /&gt;
* Very cheap to make.&lt;br /&gt;
* Customers (especially taproom) really liked it.&lt;br /&gt;
* Clear demand for this style at the taproom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Big Dreams ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* People really liked it.&lt;br /&gt;
* Personally, I thought it was just “meh.”&lt;br /&gt;
* Need to analyze what people responded to in it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Fancy a Cuppa – Earl Grey Beer ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Used &#039;&#039;&#039;5 kg of Earl Grey tea&#039;&#039;&#039; in a full batch.&lt;br /&gt;
* Tea added in the lauter tun; wort brought in from the bottom, mimicking traditional Japanese tea-making.&lt;br /&gt;
* Only ~10 minutes contact time with hot liquor.&lt;br /&gt;
* Result: very intensely tea-flavored, almost too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Plan: try again with a different tea and/or a smaller amount.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Szechuan Lager ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Flavor was too strong at &#039;&#039;&#039;1.3 g/L Szechuan peppercorn&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* Nice red-tinged flavor profile, though.&lt;br /&gt;
* Idea: use in a &#039;&#039;&#039;red rye beer&#039;&#039;&#039; at a lower dosage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Voltage – English IPA with Sansho ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sansho paired really well with the English IPA base.&lt;br /&gt;
* Balance and integration worked nicely.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Watermelon Gose ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Didn’t have enough watermelon flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
* Added watermelon before fermentation finished → some fermented, produced an off flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
* Result wasn’t great.&lt;br /&gt;
* Percentage was only ~10% watermelon; probably need &#039;&#039;&#039;12–15%&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* Could also add another puree (e.g. strawberry, other melon) to boost flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sancho Lager ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Used too much sancho.&lt;br /&gt;
* Used non-premium “budo” sancho, which has a greener profile.&lt;br /&gt;
* Still a nice match overall, but needs refinement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Momochan (Peach Beer) ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Good reception, people seem to like it.&lt;br /&gt;
* If remade: would add vanilla to give a “peaches and cream” vibe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Might also thicken the body slightly.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Herbs&amp;diff=221</id>
		<title>Herbs</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Herbs&amp;diff=221"/>
		<updated>2025-09-14T10:16:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: Created page with &amp;quot;== Shiso == 9-14-25 Quick test at home: (Shiso Extract)  紫蘇フレーバー RW-7170 (Shiso Flavor RW-7170) Company: ゴールデンケリーパテント香料株式会社 (Golden Kerry Patent Fragrance Co., Ltd.)  This is a good shiso extract  * Guava and shiso: Nice. The shiso cut through the thick guava taste, the aromas blended nicely. Maybe for a beer put the shiso as a back note though * Mango and Shiso: No, just didn&amp;#039;t blend well at all  == Sansho == 9-14-25 Qui...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Shiso ==&lt;br /&gt;
9-14-25 Quick test at home: (Shiso Extract)  紫蘇フレーバー RW-7170 (Shiso Flavor RW-7170) Company: ゴールデンケリーパテント香料株式会社 (Golden Kerry Patent Fragrance Co., Ltd.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a good shiso extract&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Guava and shiso: Nice. The shiso cut through the thick guava taste, the aromas blended nicely. Maybe for a beer put the shiso as a back note though&lt;br /&gt;
* Mango and Shiso: No, just didn&#039;t blend well at all&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Sansho ==&lt;br /&gt;
9-14-25 Quick test at home: (Budo Bros sansho)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Guava and Sansho: I couldn&#039;t smell so well but didn&#039;t stick out as amazing. Worth another test&lt;br /&gt;
* Mango and Sansho: Better than the mango&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=47_Ronin&amp;diff=220</id>
		<title>47 Ronin</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=47_Ronin&amp;diff=220"/>
		<updated>2025-09-13T06:34:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: Created page with &amp;quot; = The 47 Rōnin – Table of Roles, Actions, and Legacy = {| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot; !Name (English) !Name (Japanese) !Role / Rank !In Hiding !Legacy |- |&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Ōishi Kuranosuke Yoshio&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; |大石 内蔵助 良雄 |Chief retainer, leader |Feigned dissipation in Kyoto (drinking, women) to deceive Kira’s spies |Master strategist, symbol of cunning loyalty |- |&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Ōishi Chikara Yoshikane&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; |大石 主税 良金 |Son of Kuranosuke (15 yrs) |Stayed with father, quietly trained |You...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
= The 47 Rōnin – Table of Roles, Actions, and Legacy =&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Name (English)&lt;br /&gt;
!Name (Japanese)&lt;br /&gt;
!Role / Rank&lt;br /&gt;
!In Hiding&lt;br /&gt;
!Legacy&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Kuranosuke Yoshio&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 内蔵助 良雄&lt;br /&gt;
|Chief retainer, leader&lt;br /&gt;
|Feigned dissipation in Kyoto (drinking, women) to deceive Kira’s spies&lt;br /&gt;
|Master strategist, symbol of cunning loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Chikara Yoshikane&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 主税 良金&lt;br /&gt;
|Son of Kuranosuke (15 yrs)&lt;br /&gt;
|Stayed with father, quietly trained&lt;br /&gt;
|Youthful devotion, died with honor&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Horibe Yasubee Taketsune&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|堀部 安兵衛 武庸&lt;br /&gt;
|Master swordsman&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived in Edo, trained discreetly&lt;br /&gt;
|Folk hero, fencing legend&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Onodera Jūnai Hidetomi&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|小野寺 十内 秀富&lt;br /&gt;
|Senior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Kept group disciplined with Confucian teachings&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of moral guidance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kataoka Gengoemon Takafusa&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|片岡 源五右衛門 高房&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Organized supplies, weapons&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of loyalty in hardship&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Fuwa Kazuemon Masatane&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|不破 数右衛門 正種&lt;br /&gt;
|Hot-tempered warrior&lt;br /&gt;
|Waited impatiently, urged for swift action&lt;br /&gt;
|Admired for martial zeal&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hara Sōemon Taketoshi&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|原 惣右衛門 武俊&lt;br /&gt;
|Strong fighter&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as a commoner in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Remembered for physical bravery&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yoshida Chūzaemon Kanesada&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|吉田 忠左衛門 兼貞&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Helped recruit wavering comrades&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of steadfastness&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kayano Sanpei Masanaga&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|茅野 三平 政永&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Collected intelligence on Kira’s residence&lt;br /&gt;
|Known as a spy-like figure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okano Kin’emon Kanehide&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|岡野 金右衛門 包秀&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Broke off engagement to focus on vendetta&lt;br /&gt;
|Tragic-romantic hero&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Masayoshi Tomomori&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間瀬 久太夫 正明&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked in trades to cover identity&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of endurance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okuda Magodayū Shigemori&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|奥田 孫太夫 重盛&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as merchant&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyalty through disguise&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yokogawa Kanpei Hisayasu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|横川 勘平 久保&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived as a servant in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of humble sacrifice&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Maehara Isuke Yukitaka&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|前原 伊助 幸隆&lt;br /&gt;
|Go-between&lt;br /&gt;
|Traveled often, kept communications secret&lt;br /&gt;
|Facilitator of the vendetta&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hazama Jūjirō Mitsunobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間 十次郎 光延&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked menial jobs in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Patience and endurance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Harada Matasuke Mitsunobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|原田 又右衛門 光直&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as craftsman near Kira’s mansion&lt;br /&gt;
|Key scout&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Muramatsu Sandayū Takanao&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|村松 三太夫 高直&lt;br /&gt;
|Senior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Retired quietly but rejoined for raid&lt;br /&gt;
|Elders’ loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Sugaya Hachirōzaemon Mitsushige&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|菅谷 半之丞 正利&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Maintained contact with supporters in Ako&lt;br /&gt;
|Link between Edo and home&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Oishi Sezaemon Nobukiyo&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 瀬左衛門 信清&lt;br /&gt;
|Cousin of Ōishi&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as laborer in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Family loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Matsumura Sōjirō Kaneyasu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|松村 宗十郎 兼安&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as a clerk in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of blending into common life&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Yataemon Nobufusa&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 弥太右衛門 信房&lt;br /&gt;
|Family retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Stayed near Kuranosuke&lt;br /&gt;
|Familial loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Nishimura Kan’emon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|西村 金右衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as peddler&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of persistence&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Sugino Jūrōzaemon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|杉野 十郎左衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked in trades to earn living&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyalty in obscurity&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kurahashi Sannosuke Takeyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|倉橋 三之助 武行&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Took work as artisan&lt;br /&gt;
|Died young in the raid&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Takebayashi Tadashichi Masashige&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|竹林 唯七 正恒&lt;br /&gt;
|Younger samurai&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as commoner&lt;br /&gt;
|Quiet perseverance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Tomimori Densuke&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|富森 伝右衛門 正直&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Posed as servant in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Remembered for stealth role&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yoshida Senzō Jirōemon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|吉田 仙蔵 次郎右衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked as errand boy&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyal in menial disguise&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kataoka Jūjirō Tadanobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|片岡 十三郎 忠正&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived disguised in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Persevered until attack&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Muramatsu Shigenobu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|村松 茂信&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Took lowly jobs&lt;br /&gt;
|Example of loyalty despite hardship&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okuda Shigeyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|奥田 重之&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid in Edo as tradesman&lt;br /&gt;
|Died with comrades&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Mase Kyūdai&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間瀬 久大夫&lt;br /&gt;
|Mid-ranking&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguised as shop worker&lt;br /&gt;
|Kept surveillance role&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kuranaga Rihei&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|倉永 理兵衛&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Worked as craftsman&lt;br /&gt;
|Humble but faithful&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Maehara Tōzaemon&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|前原 桃左衛門&lt;br /&gt;
|Junior retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid in Edo&lt;br /&gt;
|Died loyally&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Teraoka Nobuyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|寺岡 信行&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Lived as servant&lt;br /&gt;
|Disguise loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Hazama Jūshirō&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|間 十四郎&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Blended into townsfolk&lt;br /&gt;
|Perseverance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yokogawa Hisayasu&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|横川 久安&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as farmer&lt;br /&gt;
|Symbol of persistence&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Horibe Taketsune (same family)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|堀部 武庸&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Trained discreetly&lt;br /&gt;
|Family line loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Ōishi Yoshitaka&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|大石 良隆&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid with other Oishi relatives&lt;br /&gt;
|Clan loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Yoshida Kanesada&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|吉田 兼貞&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Took low-level jobs&lt;br /&gt;
|Loyalty remembered&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Kayano Masanaga&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|茅野 政永&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Hid as townsman&lt;br /&gt;
|Enduring loyalty&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Okano Kanehide&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|岡野 包秀&lt;br /&gt;
|Retainer&lt;br /&gt;
|Broke off engagement (folk tale)&lt;br /&gt;
|Romantic figure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|&#039;&#039;&#039;Terasaka Kichiemon Nobuyuki&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
|寺坂 吉右衛門 信行&lt;br /&gt;
|Messenger&lt;br /&gt;
|Spared seppuku to spread news&lt;br /&gt;
|Only survivor, testified later&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=JBC_beers&amp;diff=219</id>
		<title>JBC beers</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=JBC_beers&amp;diff=219"/>
		<updated>2025-09-13T06:23:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: Created page with &amp;quot;== 2026 ==  === Hopozuna === Based in the Sumo fight that decided the ruler of Japan   When the heavenly gods (the Amatsukami) sought to extend their rule over the earth (the Ashihara no Nakatsukuni, “Central Land of Reed Plains”), they sent envoys down to secure the land. One of these envoys was Takemikazuchi-no-Kami (建御雷神) — a thunder and sword deity, fierce and unyielding. On earth, he was met by Takeminakata-no-Kami (建御名方神), a powerful local g...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== 2026 ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Hopozuna ===&lt;br /&gt;
Based in the Sumo fight that decided the ruler of Japan &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the heavenly gods (the Amatsukami) sought to extend their rule over the earth (the Ashihara no Nakatsukuni, “Central Land of Reed Plains”), they sent envoys down to secure the land. One of these envoys was Takemikazuchi-no-Kami (建御雷神) — a thunder and sword deity, fierce and unyielding. On earth, he was met by Takeminakata-no-Kami (建御名方神), a powerful local god of water, hunting, and agriculture (later strongly tied to rice and the countryside). To decide who would control the land, the two deities engaged in a test of strength — essentially the first sumo match in mythic history.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Takeminakata seized Takemikazuchi’s hand, but the thunder god’s arm transformed — first into a sword of ice, then into a sword of stone. Takeminakata could not hold it. When Takemikazuchi grasped Takeminakata’s hand in turn, he crushed it easily “like a reed,” showing overwhelming strength. Defeated and terrified, Takeminakata fled north to Shinano Province (modern Nagano).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In Shinano, Takeminakata begged for his life and submitted, swearing never to challenge the heavenly order again. Takemikazuchi’s victory secured the rule of the land for the heavenly line, leading to the foundation of the Japanese imperial dynasty. From then on, Takemikazuchi was enshrined at Kashima Shrine (Ibaraki) as a god of martial arts, thunder, and victory. Takeminakata was enshrined at Suwa Taisha (Nagano) as a powerful local deity of agriculture, water, and the hunt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Takemi Nigami (タケミ苦味) – West Coast IPA ====&lt;br /&gt;
Bitter, bold, thunderous — this spirit of hops entered the contest with unmatched strength. Like the storm-god who once seized the land, Takemi Nigami carries the sharp edge of West Coast bitterness, a power that reshaped the world of IPAs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Takemi Shizuku (タケミ雫) – NZIPA with Sake Yeast &amp;amp; Rice ====&lt;br /&gt;
Defeated in the great match, this spirit was sent into the countryside. There, among rice and yeast, Takemi Shizuku discovered balance and nuance. Subtle and refined, he returned not as a conqueror, but as a new presence — proof that beauty can be born even in loss.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 鳳梨のカイ (Hōri no Kai) – Pineapple &amp;amp; Sanshō Ale ===&lt;br /&gt;
Once a year, a rare spirit returns from beyond. Known as a no Kai, it takes form through fruit — this time as pineapple, bright and golden, touched with the spark of sanshō. Each return is a new face of the same eternal being, a fleeting chapter in the tale of the Horyokai.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Oboroyokai (朧妖怪) – Hazy IPA ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Moon God came in disguise, asking for offerings. The monkey brought yuzu, the fox brought grain, but the Horyokai had nothing to give. With only itself to offer, it leapt into the stew. Moved by this sacrifice, the Moon God carried it into the sky, where it became Oboroyokai — the spirit of hazy nights, glowing faintly whenever the Hop Moon veils the world in mist.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Yeast&amp;diff=218</id>
		<title>Yeast</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Yeast&amp;diff=218"/>
		<updated>2025-09-12T01:49:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Misc Tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;London ale&#039;&#039;&#039; adjusts to a cylindrical conical fv in about 2 generations. So they use fresh pitches on their American wheat (white nose) cause that will stress it a little and gives it a &#039;&#039;&#039;touch of banana&#039;&#039;&#039; CBB 316 - Uberbrews&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;S-05&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* What temp range do you recommend? I vaguely remember mid 60s = peach, closer to 70 = fruitier flavors&lt;br /&gt;
* Depends on the end goal. S05 (being Chico, after all!) does an excellent job of accentuating hop flavors and aromas. A solid 65F for primary with a ramp to 70F for D rest for 2-3 days at 2/3 atten. will give you a clean profile that lets the hops shine. 70F brings more tropical fruity esters, IMO. If you&#039;re going for &amp;quot;juicy&amp;quot; or using a sexy Southern hemisphere hop, bump that primary temp on up to 70F. Adjust D rest temp up accordingly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underpitch the &#039;&#039;&#039;Verdant&#039;&#039;&#039; and ferment a bit warmer that’ll help bring out some juicy peach notes to cut the pine/resin. We’ve been going at 72. We don’t dhop close to terminal. We’ve liked the results of getting to terminal and dropping tank to 55, getting yeast out then dry hopping. Many ways to do it tho! Good luck on the brew! (reddit) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Life Cycle ==&lt;br /&gt;
Fermentation Time Line - Chris White&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lag phase,  3-15 hours after pitching yeast:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When yeast is pitched into beer, it begins a process of acclimation to the environment. This is known as the &amp;quot;lag&amp;quot; phase. The yeast begins to uptake minerals and amino acids (nitrogen) from wort. Amino acids are used to build proteins. The amino acids that yeast can not obtain or get fast enough from wort need to manufactured by the yeast. Much the same way that humans need 100% of essential vitamins and minerals to make it through the day, yeast cells also need 100% of their vitamins and minerals (nutrients) to make it through a fermentation properly nourished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All-malt wort is an excellent source of nitrogen, minerals, and vitamins. Most of the vitamins yeast need for proper fermentation are supplied in wort. Some examples of necessary vitamins are riboflavin, inositol, and biotin. Important minerals are phosphorous, sulfur, copper, iron, zinc, potassium, and sodium. As the minerals and vitamins are taken up from the wort, yeast begins to manufacture enzymes necessary for growth. Wort can be supplemented with additional minerals and vitamins by using commercially available yeast nutrients, which will improve the health and performance of the yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Oxygen is rapidly absorbed from the wort during the lag phase. The yeast need this oxygen to grow in order to produce important cell wall constituents. It is important to provide enough oxygen into wort at the beginning of fermentation. By shaking the fermentor, a homebrewer is able to, at best, add about half the recommended level of 10 ppm oxygen into solution. This will produce satisfactory fermentation results, but to make sure a healthy fermentation will take place, oxygen can be added to the fermentor with several commercially available systems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The lag phase can be carried out at a higher temperature than the rest of fermentation because very little flavor compounds are produced. Ethanol production is also very limited, therefore ester formation is not a concern. Some brewers begin the lag phase for ales at 72-75F, and complete the fermentation at 68F. This can be done with success for lagers too, with starting the lag phase at 72-75F and lowering the fermentation temperature to 50-55F.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Brewers will not see any visible activity during the lag phase, hence the way it got its name. But this phase is very important in building new healthy cells that will be able to complete fermentation. If the wort is overpitched, this will decrease the lag phase, and each individual cell will not be as healthy at the end of fermentation. Although it may feel reassuring to a homebrewer to see fermentation activity within one hour of pitching yeast, it is not best for the yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Exponential growth phase:  1-4  days:&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As the yeast comes out of lag phase, it starts to consume the sugars in the solution. CO2 is produced, which starts to expel from the airlock and create a surface layer of foam on the beer. The exponential, or logarithmic, phase of yeast growth is now starting. During this phase, the cell count will increase rapidly, and ethanol and flavor compounds will be produced. Airlocks will bubble like crazy within this time frame. The aroma that escapes from the airlock of most neutral ale yeast fermentations has an &amp;quot;olive&amp;quot; smell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The exponential phase occurs because yeast rapidly consumes the sugar. Wort sugar is consumed by yeast in a certain pattern. Glucose is used first, then fructose and sucrose. These are simple sugars, and can be quickly shuttled into metabolism. The glucose concentration in wort is roughly 14% of wort sugars.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Maltose is the centerpiece sugar of  malt and is a very important flavor component. It makes up 59% of wort sugars, and its use by yeast gives beer its characteristic flavors. There are 1 to 5 genes in yeast DNA that &amp;quot;turn on&amp;quot; in response to maltose, allowing for fermentation by brewers yeast.  After maltose enters the cell through a special uptake mechanism, it is hydrolysed into glucose units by maltase enzymes. Glucose can then enter the normal metabolism cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Best Practices ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Zinc ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Best Practices - Zinc Addition (Escarpment)&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If not using a nutrient blend, most brewers will use a hydrated zinc salt such as zinc sulfate heptahydrate (ZnSO₄ x 7H₂O). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general, most brewers target between 0.1-1 ppm of elemental zinc in wort. In general lager yeasts need less zinc and ale yeasts need more. In both cases, While 1 ppm is technically an excessive amount, solubility of zinc additions in wort is often inefficient as the zinc can be precipitated in trub. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
How do I calculate how much zinc to add? Time for some math! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Zinc ions are 22.8% of the molecular weight of zinc sulfate heptahydrate (65.3 out of 287g/mol).&lt;br /&gt;
* To get to 1 ppm zinc, we need to add 1/0.228 = 4.39 mg/L (ppm) of zinc sulfate heptahydrate.&lt;br /&gt;
* So to get to our range of 0.1 - 1 ppm zinc, this would translate to a measurable quantity of between 0.04- 0.44 g per 1hL (100L). To shoot for the middle, 0.2 g per 1 hL would be appropriate. This translates to 2 g in 10 hL of wort. &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep in mind that zinc solubility is never 100% efficient, and this efficiency is not consistent between brewhouses. You may need to dial in the amount you add upward or downward based on the yeast performance you observe. &lt;br /&gt;
* Remember to factor in the zinc concentration of your source water. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Here is our recommended nutrient regime,&#039;&#039;&#039; including zinc addition. This especially works well to boost Lager yeast fermentation and repitching performance: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Zinc Sulfate Heptahydrate - 0.2g/hL, made into a sterile solution and added directly to the tank &lt;br /&gt;
* We recommend both Yeast Lightning and Zinc because they offer different benefits and are ideally added to the wort at different times in the process. &lt;br /&gt;
* Adding the zinc to the fermentor helps avoid the solubility problem mentioned above, since zinc added in the brewhouse will partially precipitate with the trub. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Expat Brewers&#039;&#039;&#039;…  What is an ingredient in your arsenal that often goes unnoticed or underappreciated? What do you like it in? &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* ​​Zinc sulfate in everything …. &lt;br /&gt;
* I’ve heard it’s good for pushing beers through fast and reducing acetaldehyde. &lt;br /&gt;
* how much Zinc Sulphate would you recommend? &lt;br /&gt;
* all depends on what kind of zinc sulphate you get. There&#039;s monohydrate and heptahydrate - the latter having 7 times the amount of water molecules and therefore ratio is different. …. &lt;br /&gt;
* I still use it with fresh yeast. whilst packed with nutrients it&#039;s still quite a traumatic process for yeast - and if you want to build a healthy second gen with beautiful healthy cell walls, then zinc is perfect. …. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Oxygen ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Oxygen Flow Rate (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* I know it’s generally supposed to be 8-10ppm dissolved oxygen for ales and more for lagers.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Gravity Points divided by 4 is a good starting point, for ppm for each batch - .044 / 4 = 11ppm. Lager yeasts needs extra and big beers above .052 need a boost. No meter equals guess work, which is where a lot of breweries start. Good luck! &lt;br /&gt;
* For my 7bbl, knocking out through a 1 inch hose, that’s 30 foot long at 68 degrees, with an 8 inch sintered stone from glacier tanks. I use a DO meter to get me in the range of 12-18ppm for ales. I inject at around 0.3 LPM for the duration of the 30-40 min knockout. Its imperative to have DO meter for measuring it. It’s super easy to inject oxygen amounts that are toxic to yeast and will affect fermentation performance.&lt;br /&gt;
* I have a 5 hL system and knockout at about 25 lpm / 22 C. Oxygen flow is about 0.15 lpm for duration of transfer, resulting in about 10-12 ppm. &lt;br /&gt;
* A while back I did a bunch of experiments. For our stone and knockout procedure, 1.5 LPM was the best set point to get turbulent mixing. Any lower and the oxygen just floated on top of the wort and any higher and it causes foaming and huge bubbles that also didn&#039;t dissolve.&lt;br /&gt;
== Harvesting ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Harvesting from the cone for late-fermentation dry hopping - Top Crop&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is the most effective time for harvesting, and definitely what we recommend: wait until you get a good harvest on the tank and then dry hop so you can reuse that yeast. When you’re already investing a lot in the hops, repitching your yeast is a good way to make those investments work for you and keep costs down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally you’ll want to time your harvest when viability is still high, and enough yeast has collected at the bottom of the cone. Close to terminal gravity is a great time to harvest from the cone. There is a sweet spot right as the fermentation is approaching terminal when you can harvest yeast and still dry hop when the yeast is active. This can help encourage hop creep to occur faster. Keep in mind that the initial burst of from the cone is trub and potentially a small amount of dead yeast cells — keep a close eye on the color and consistency of what’s coming down the line to make sure you grab the healthy yeast slurry, and be sure not to draw the slurry too quickly or you will punch through straight to beer.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Harvesting.png|frameless|419x419px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CBB 340 - Calusa:&#039;&#039;&#039; He’s 75 generations in with his yeast&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Soft crash to below 60 (15.5) as soon as beer is done and d-rest is done, and they saw viability increase by more than 10% (80s before, high 90’s after) as soon as VDK is done and they see a slight increase in pH they harvest.&lt;br /&gt;
* When they soft crash they put a few psi on the tank. &lt;br /&gt;
* (Grimm artisanal is over 200 generations)  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sunflower Oil ===&lt;br /&gt;
Matt Couch Brewmaster Lazarus Brewing Company &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sunflower oil.png|frameless|824x824px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Sake Yeast ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== BMK3 ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== From Maker ====&lt;br /&gt;
1本が１Lの培養液となります。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
現在、YPD培地と呼ばれる酵母の培養に一般的に使われている培地にて増殖させたものをお渡ししておりますが、希望がございましたら別途対応も可能です。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
菌数としては1～2×10^8 cells/mLの濃度でいますので、1L培養液には約10^11 cellsいることになります。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
〇BMK3について&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
簡単にBMK3の紹介をさせていただくと、通常の清酒酵母ではマルトースを発酵する能力が低く、ビール醸造に用いても発酵速度が遅く、満足に清酒酵母の特徴を引き出したビールにならないことが分かっております。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BMK3は遺伝的には清酒酵母「きょうかい10号」の近縁種で、清酒酵母のマルトースの発酵能力を回復した酵母です。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
発酵速度はアメリカンエール系の酵母と同等の発酵速度を示します。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
一方で、マルトトリオースの発酵能は有していませんので、その分、比重が残ります。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
清酒の吟醸香は「酢酸イソアミル」と「カプロン酸エチル」がよく注目されます。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
酢酸イソアミルはヴァイツェンのバナナ様の香気ですので、ビールでもなじみがあります。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
カプロン酸エチルはピルスナーではオフフレーバーとされていますが、清酒では「リンゴ様」「ハーブ様」といわれ、近年の高級酒の香りには欠かせない香気となっております。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BMK3は清酒酵母の中でも、このカプロン酸エチルを高生成する特徴を有しており、したがって、ビール醸造では他の酵母とは異なる、ユニークなエステル系の香気を示す酵母になっております&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
English:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One bottle contains 1 L of culture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We currently provide the culture grown in YPD medium, a medium commonly used for yeast cultivation, but we can accommodate special requests upon request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cell density is 1-2 x 10^8 cells/mL, meaning there are approximately 10^11 cells in 1 L of culture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
About BMK3&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To briefly introduce BMK3, regular sake yeast has a low ability to ferment maltose,and when used in beer brewing, the fermentation rate is slow, and the beer does not fully bring out the characteristics of sake yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BMK3 is genetically related to the sake yeast &amp;quot;Kyokai No. 10&amp;quot; and has restored the sake yeast&#039;s ability to ferment maltose.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Its fermentation rate is equivalent to that of American ale yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
However, it does not have the ability to ferment maltotriose, so the specific gravity remains.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When it comes to the ginjo aroma of sake, isoamyl acetate and ethyl caproate are often noted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isoamyl acetate has the banana-like aroma of Weizen, so it is also familiar in beer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ethyl caproate is considered an off-flavor in pilsner, but in sake it is said to have an &amp;quot;apple-like&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;herb-like&amp;quot; aroma, and has become an essential aroma in the aroma of high-end sake in recent years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Among sake yeasts, BMK3 has the characteristic of producing a high amount of ethyl caproate, and therefore, when brewing beer, it exhibits a unique ester-based aroma that is different from other yeasts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Our Brewing Method ====&lt;br /&gt;
I bought yeast 1 liter and put it in 15 liters of wort.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next day 150 liters of wort put in the yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7 days later I made 850 wort and put it in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you don’t wanna wait so long, you should buy more than 1 liter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I will buy 5 liters and put it in 100 liters next time.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Yeast]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Yeast&amp;diff=217</id>
		<title>Yeast</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Yeast&amp;diff=217"/>
		<updated>2025-09-12T00:42:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Misc Tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;London ale&#039;&#039;&#039; adjusts to a cylindrical conical fv in about 2 generations. So they use fresh pitches on their American wheat (white nose) cause that will stress it a little and gives it a &#039;&#039;&#039;touch of banana&#039;&#039;&#039; CBB 316 - Uberbrews&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;S-05&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* What temp range do you recommend? I vaguely remember mid 60s = peach, closer to 70 = fruitier flavors&lt;br /&gt;
* Depends on the end goal. S05 (being Chico, after all!) does an excellent job of accentuating hop flavors and aromas. A solid 65F for primary with a ramp to 70F for D rest for 2-3 days at 2/3 atten. will give you a clean profile that lets the hops shine. 70F brings more tropical fruity esters, IMO. If you&#039;re going for &amp;quot;juicy&amp;quot; or using a sexy Southern hemisphere hop, bump that primary temp on up to 70F. Adjust D rest temp up accordingly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underpitch the &#039;&#039;&#039;Verdant&#039;&#039;&#039; and ferment a bit warmer that’ll help bring out some juicy peach notes to cut the pine/resin. We’ve been going at 72. We don’t dhop close to terminal. We’ve liked the results of getting to terminal and dropping tank to 55, getting yeast out then dry hopping. Many ways to do it tho! Good luck on the brew! (reddit) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Life Cycle ==&lt;br /&gt;
Fermentation Time Line - Chris White&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lag phase,  3-15 hours after pitching yeast:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When yeast is pitched into beer, it begins a process of acclimation to the environment. This is known as the &amp;quot;lag&amp;quot; phase. The yeast begins to uptake minerals and amino acids (nitrogen) from wort. Amino acids are used to build proteins. The amino acids that yeast can not obtain or get fast enough from wort need to manufactured by the yeast. Much the same way that humans need 100% of essential vitamins and minerals to make it through the day, yeast cells also need 100% of their vitamins and minerals (nutrients) to make it through a fermentation properly nourished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All-malt wort is an excellent source of nitrogen, minerals, and vitamins. Most of the vitamins yeast need for proper fermentation are supplied in wort. Some examples of necessary vitamins are riboflavin, inositol, and biotin. Important minerals are phosphorous, sulfur, copper, iron, zinc, potassium, and sodium. As the minerals and vitamins are taken up from the wort, yeast begins to manufacture enzymes necessary for growth. Wort can be supplemented with additional minerals and vitamins by using commercially available yeast nutrients, which will improve the health and performance of the yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Oxygen is rapidly absorbed from the wort during the lag phase. The yeast need this oxygen to grow in order to produce important cell wall constituents. It is important to provide enough oxygen into wort at the beginning of fermentation. By shaking the fermentor, a homebrewer is able to, at best, add about half the recommended level of 10 ppm oxygen into solution. This will produce satisfactory fermentation results, but to make sure a healthy fermentation will take place, oxygen can be added to the fermentor with several commercially available systems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The lag phase can be carried out at a higher temperature than the rest of fermentation because very little flavor compounds are produced. Ethanol production is also very limited, therefore ester formation is not a concern. Some brewers begin the lag phase for ales at 72-75F, and complete the fermentation at 68F. This can be done with success for lagers too, with starting the lag phase at 72-75F and lowering the fermentation temperature to 50-55F.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Brewers will not see any visible activity during the lag phase, hence the way it got its name. But this phase is very important in building new healthy cells that will be able to complete fermentation. If the wort is overpitched, this will decrease the lag phase, and each individual cell will not be as healthy at the end of fermentation. Although it may feel reassuring to a homebrewer to see fermentation activity within one hour of pitching yeast, it is not best for the yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Exponential growth phase:  1-4  days:&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As the yeast comes out of lag phase, it starts to consume the sugars in the solution. CO2 is produced, which starts to expel from the airlock and create a surface layer of foam on the beer. The exponential, or logarithmic, phase of yeast growth is now starting. During this phase, the cell count will increase rapidly, and ethanol and flavor compounds will be produced. Airlocks will bubble like crazy within this time frame. The aroma that escapes from the airlock of most neutral ale yeast fermentations has an &amp;quot;olive&amp;quot; smell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The exponential phase occurs because yeast rapidly consumes the sugar. Wort sugar is consumed by yeast in a certain pattern. Glucose is used first, then fructose and sucrose. These are simple sugars, and can be quickly shuttled into metabolism. The glucose concentration in wort is roughly 14% of wort sugars.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Maltose is the centerpiece sugar of  malt and is a very important flavor component. It makes up 59% of wort sugars, and its use by yeast gives beer its characteristic flavors. There are 1 to 5 genes in yeast DNA that &amp;quot;turn on&amp;quot; in response to maltose, allowing for fermentation by brewers yeast.  After maltose enters the cell through a special uptake mechanism, it is hydrolysed into glucose units by maltase enzymes. Glucose can then enter the normal metabolism cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Best Practices ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Zinc ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Best Practices - Zinc Addition (Escarpment)&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If not using a nutrient blend, most brewers will use a hydrated zinc salt such as zinc sulfate heptahydrate (ZnSO₄ x 7H₂O). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general, most brewers target between 0.1-1 ppm of elemental zinc in wort. In general lager yeasts need less zinc and ale yeasts need more. In both cases, While 1 ppm is technically an excessive amount, solubility of zinc additions in wort is often inefficient as the zinc can be precipitated in trub. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
How do I calculate how much zinc to add? Time for some math! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Zinc ions are 22.8% of the molecular weight of zinc sulfate heptahydrate (65.3 out of 287g/mol).&lt;br /&gt;
* To get to 1 ppm zinc, we need to add 1/0.228 = 4.39 mg/L (ppm) of zinc sulfate heptahydrate.&lt;br /&gt;
* So to get to our range of 0.1 - 1 ppm zinc, this would translate to a measurable quantity of between 0.04- 0.44 g per 1hL (100L). To shoot for the middle, 0.2 g per 1 hL would be appropriate. This translates to 2 g in 10 hL of wort. &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep in mind that zinc solubility is never 100% efficient, and this efficiency is not consistent between brewhouses. You may need to dial in the amount you add upward or downward based on the yeast performance you observe. &lt;br /&gt;
* Remember to factor in the zinc concentration of your source water. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Here is our recommended nutrient regime,&#039;&#039;&#039; including zinc addition. This especially works well to boost Lager yeast fermentation and repitching performance: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Zinc Sulfate Heptahydrate - 0.2g/hL, made into a sterile solution and added directly to the tank &lt;br /&gt;
* We recommend both Yeast Lightning and Zinc because they offer different benefits and are ideally added to the wort at different times in the process. &lt;br /&gt;
* Adding the zinc to the fermentor helps avoid the solubility problem mentioned above, since zinc added in the brewhouse will partially precipitate with the trub. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Expat Brewers&#039;&#039;&#039;…  What is an ingredient in your arsenal that often goes unnoticed or underappreciated? What do you like it in? &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* ​​Zinc sulfate in everything …. &lt;br /&gt;
* I’ve heard it’s good for pushing beers through fast and reducing acetaldehyde. &lt;br /&gt;
* how much Zinc Sulphate would you recommend? &lt;br /&gt;
* all depends on what kind of zinc sulphate you get. There&#039;s monohydrate and heptahydrate - the latter having 7 times the amount of water molecules and therefore ratio is different. …. &lt;br /&gt;
* I still use it with fresh yeast. whilst packed with nutrients it&#039;s still quite a traumatic process for yeast - and if you want to build a healthy second gen with beautiful healthy cell walls, then zinc is perfect. …. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Oxygen ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Oxygen Flow Rate (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* I know it’s generally supposed to be 8-10ppm dissolved oxygen for ales and more for lagers.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Gravity Points divided by 4 is a good starting point, for ppm for each batch - .044 / 4 = 11ppm. Lager yeasts needs extra and big beers above .052 need a boost. No meter equals guess work, which is where a lot of breweries start. Good luck! &lt;br /&gt;
* For my 7bbl, knocking out through a 1 inch hose, that’s 30 foot long at 68 degrees, with an 8 inch sintered stone from glacier tanks. I use a DO meter to get me in the range of 12-18ppm for ales. I inject at around 0.3 LPM for the duration of the 30-40 min knockout. Its imperative to have DO meter for measuring it. It’s super easy to inject oxygen amounts that are toxic to yeast and will affect fermentation performance.&lt;br /&gt;
* I have a 5 hL system and knockout at about 25 lpm / 22 C. Oxygen flow is about 0.15 lpm for duration of transfer, resulting in about 10-12 ppm. &lt;br /&gt;
* A while back I did a bunch of experiments. For our stone and knockout procedure, 1.5 LPM was the best set point to get turbulent mixing. Any lower and the oxygen just floated on top of the wort and any higher and it causes foaming and huge bubbles that also didn&#039;t dissolve.&lt;br /&gt;
== Harvesting ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Harvesting from the cone for late-fermentation dry hopping - Top Crop&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is the most effective time for harvesting, and definitely what we recommend: wait until you get a good harvest on the tank and then dry hop so you can reuse that yeast. When you’re already investing a lot in the hops, repitching your yeast is a good way to make those investments work for you and keep costs down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally you’ll want to time your harvest when viability is still high, and enough yeast has collected at the bottom of the cone. Close to terminal gravity is a great time to harvest from the cone. There is a sweet spot right as the fermentation is approaching terminal when you can harvest yeast and still dry hop when the yeast is active. This can help encourage hop creep to occur faster. Keep in mind that the initial burst of from the cone is trub and potentially a small amount of dead yeast cells — keep a close eye on the color and consistency of what’s coming down the line to make sure you grab the healthy yeast slurry, and be sure not to draw the slurry too quickly or you will punch through straight to beer.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Harvesting.png|frameless|419x419px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CBB 340 - Calusa:&#039;&#039;&#039; He’s 75 generations in with his yeast&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Soft crash to below 60 (15.5) as soon as beer is done and d-rest is done, and they saw viability increase by more than 10% (80s before, high 90’s after) as soon as VDK is done and they see a slight increase in pH they harvest.&lt;br /&gt;
* When they soft crash they put a few psi on the tank. &lt;br /&gt;
* (Grimm artisanal is over 200 generations)  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sunflower Oil ===&lt;br /&gt;
Matt Couch Brewmaster Lazarus Brewing Company &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sunflower oil.png|frameless|824x824px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Sake Yeast ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== BMK3 ===&lt;br /&gt;
1本が１Lの培養液となります。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
現在、YPD培地と呼ばれる酵母の培養に一般的に使われている培地にて増殖させたものをお渡ししておりますが、希望がございましたら別途対応も可能です。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
菌数としては1～2×10^8 cells/mLの濃度でいますので、1L培養液には約10^11 cellsいることになります。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
〇BMK3について&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
簡単にBMK3の紹介をさせていただくと、通常の清酒酵母ではマルトースを発酵する能力が低く、ビール醸造に用いても発酵速度が遅く、満足に清酒酵母の特徴を引き出したビールにならないことが分かっております。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BMK3は遺伝的には清酒酵母「きょうかい10号」の近縁種で、清酒酵母のマルトースの発酵能力を回復した酵母です。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
発酵速度はアメリカンエール系の酵母と同等の発酵速度を示します。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
一方で、マルトトリオースの発酵能は有していませんので、その分、比重が残ります。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
清酒の吟醸香は「酢酸イソアミル」と「カプロン酸エチル」がよく注目されます。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
酢酸イソアミルはヴァイツェンのバナナ様の香気ですので、ビールでもなじみがあります。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
カプロン酸エチルはピルスナーではオフフレーバーとされていますが、清酒では「リンゴ様」「ハーブ様」といわれ、近年の高級酒の香りには欠かせない香気となっております。&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BMK3は清酒酵母の中でも、このカプロン酸エチルを高生成する特徴を有しており、したがって、ビール醸造では他の酵母とは異なる、ユニークなエステル系の香気を示す酵母になっております&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
English:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One bottle contains 1 L of culture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We currently provide the culture grown in YPD medium, a medium commonly used for yeast cultivation, but we can accommodate special requests upon request.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cell density is 1-2 x 10^8 cells/mL, meaning there are approximately 10^11 cells in 1 L of culture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
About BMK3&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To briefly introduce BMK3, regular sake yeast has a low ability to ferment maltose,and when used in beer brewing, the fermentation rate is slow, and the beer does not fully bring out the characteristics of sake yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BMK3 is genetically related to the sake yeast &amp;quot;Kyokai No. 10&amp;quot; and has restored the sake yeast&#039;s ability to ferment maltose.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Its fermentation rate is equivalent to that of American ale yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
However, it does not have the ability to ferment maltotriose, so the specific gravity remains.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When it comes to the ginjo aroma of sake, isoamyl acetate and ethyl caproate are often noted.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Isoamyl acetate has the banana-like aroma of Weizen, so it is also familiar in beer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ethyl caproate is considered an off-flavor in pilsner, but in sake it is said to have an &amp;quot;apple-like&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;herb-like&amp;quot; aroma, and has become an essential aroma in the aroma of high-end sake in recent years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Among sake yeasts, BMK3 has the characteristic of producing a high amount of ethyl caproate, and therefore, when brewing beer, it exhibits a unique ester-based aroma that is different from other yeasts.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Yeast]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Our_Beer_Notes&amp;diff=216</id>
		<title>Our Beer Notes</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Our_Beer_Notes&amp;diff=216"/>
		<updated>2025-09-12T00:39:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;=== Combustion – Smoked Porter ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Turned out really nice.&lt;br /&gt;
* Ended up with a very high finishing Plato (don’t remember the exact number, need to look it up).&lt;br /&gt;
* The sweetness from the higher finish actually worked well.&lt;br /&gt;
* If remaking: aim for a finish higher than the original plan, but not as high as this batch.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Southern Tides / Nomocraft Pale ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Our version was quite nice.&lt;br /&gt;
* Possible candidate for a remake.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Momonokai – Passion Fruit Peach ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Very well-received by HopHopka people.&lt;br /&gt;
* Test batch: used the nicer peach → much better.&lt;br /&gt;
* Full batch: used cheaper peach → not as good.&lt;br /&gt;
* Conclusion: always use the nicer peach.&lt;br /&gt;
* Yeast: used &#039;&#039;&#039;thiol yeast&#039;&#039;&#039; in the test batch but not in the full batch. Want to use that again, as it added something extra.&lt;br /&gt;
* Style/method: think it might have been a kettle sour? Not sure. Would like to do a kettle sour in the future.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== momono kai for big batch ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* ・白桃ピューレ（国産）　18.5㎏×3缶&lt;br /&gt;
* ・ベトナム産パッションフルーツジュース　18㎏×３缶&lt;br /&gt;
* ・YOKOKAWA　ピーチフレーバーB4541　1kg&lt;br /&gt;
* ・ゴールデンケリー　オーチャードピーチ　1kg&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== momono kai for small batch ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* ・キャップフリュイ　パッションフルーツピューレ　2㎏&lt;br /&gt;
* ・キャップフリュイ　ペーシュ（白桃）ピューレ　2㎏&lt;br /&gt;
* ・YOKOKAWA　ピーチフレーバーB4541&lt;br /&gt;
* ・ゴールデンケリー　オーチャードピーチ&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sake Yeast Beer Tests ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Helles + Sake Yeast:&#039;&#039;&#039;   Started as a nice variation, but over time the sake character disappeared and it ended up tasting like a regular helles.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Sake Yeast + Koji Rice in Fermenter:&#039;&#039;&#039;   Produced nice flavors, but balance is tricky — need the right alcohol level without thinning out the body too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Sancho Gose (World Beer Cup Winner):&#039;&#039;&#039;   Attempted to ferment with sake yeast → didn’t fully work.   After thinking it was finished, added koji rice in the fermenter.   Didn’t ferment much further, but improved the sake character.   → Idea: test adding sake rice/koji rice post-fermentation again.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;QA23 Wine Yeast + Sake Rice in Fermenter:&#039;&#039;&#039;   Came out really nice.   Flavor: phenolic, citrusy, farmhouse-style funk, but not unpleasant.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Berry Belly – Blueberry Beer ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Came out a little too thick.&lt;br /&gt;
* Would have preferred to kettle sour and lighten the body.&lt;br /&gt;
* Tonka beans were a highlight — nougat-like flavor.   → Want to reuse tonka beans in a different context, maybe a dark beer (brown ale, porter, etc.).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Nonic – English Pale Ale ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Really nice.&lt;br /&gt;
* Very cheap to make.&lt;br /&gt;
* Customers (especially taproom) really liked it.&lt;br /&gt;
* Clear demand for this style at the taproom.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Big Dreams ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* People really liked it.&lt;br /&gt;
* Personally, I thought it was just “meh.”&lt;br /&gt;
* Need to analyze what people responded to in it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Fancy a Cuppa – Earl Grey Beer ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Used &#039;&#039;&#039;5 kg of Earl Grey tea&#039;&#039;&#039; in a full batch.&lt;br /&gt;
* Tea added in the lauter tun; wort brought in from the bottom, mimicking traditional Japanese tea-making.&lt;br /&gt;
* Only ~10 minutes contact time with hot liquor.&lt;br /&gt;
* Result: very intensely tea-flavored, almost too much.&lt;br /&gt;
* Plan: try again with a different tea and/or a smaller amount.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Szechuan Lager ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Flavor was too strong at &#039;&#039;&#039;1.3 g/L Szechuan peppercorn&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* Nice red-tinged flavor profile, though.&lt;br /&gt;
* Idea: use in a &#039;&#039;&#039;red rye beer&#039;&#039;&#039; at a lower dosage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Voltage – English IPA with Sansho ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sansho paired really well with the English IPA base.&lt;br /&gt;
* Balance and integration worked nicely.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Watermelon Gose ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Didn’t have enough watermelon flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
* Added watermelon before fermentation finished → some fermented, produced an off flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
* Result wasn’t great.&lt;br /&gt;
* Percentage was only ~10% watermelon; probably need &#039;&#039;&#039;12–15%&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* Could also add another puree (e.g. strawberry, other melon) to boost flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sancho Lager ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Used too much sancho.&lt;br /&gt;
* Used non-premium “budo” sancho, which has a greener profile.&lt;br /&gt;
* Still a nice match overall, but needs refinement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Momochan (Peach Beer) ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Good reception, people seem to like it.&lt;br /&gt;
* If remade: would add vanilla to give a “peaches and cream” vibe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Might also thicken the body slightly.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Yeast&amp;diff=215</id>
		<title>Yeast</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Yeast&amp;diff=215"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T06:26:28Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Misc Tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;London ale&#039;&#039;&#039; adjusts to a cylindrical conical fv in about 2 generations. So they use fresh pitches on their American wheat (white nose) cause that will stress it a little and gives it a &#039;&#039;&#039;touch of banana&#039;&#039;&#039; CBB 316 - Uberbrews&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;S-05&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* What temp range do you recommend? I vaguely remember mid 60s = peach, closer to 70 = fruitier flavors&lt;br /&gt;
* Depends on the end goal. S05 (being Chico, after all!) does an excellent job of accentuating hop flavors and aromas. A solid 65F for primary with a ramp to 70F for D rest for 2-3 days at 2/3 atten. will give you a clean profile that lets the hops shine. 70F brings more tropical fruity esters, IMO. If you&#039;re going for &amp;quot;juicy&amp;quot; or using a sexy Southern hemisphere hop, bump that primary temp on up to 70F. Adjust D rest temp up accordingly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Underpitch the &#039;&#039;&#039;Verdant&#039;&#039;&#039; and ferment a bit warmer that’ll help bring out some juicy peach notes to cut the pine/resin. We’ve been going at 72. We don’t dhop close to terminal. We’ve liked the results of getting to terminal and dropping tank to 55, getting yeast out then dry hopping. Many ways to do it tho! Good luck on the brew! (reddit) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Life Cycle ==&lt;br /&gt;
Fermentation Time Line - Chris White&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lag phase,  3-15 hours after pitching yeast:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When yeast is pitched into beer, it begins a process of acclimation to the environment. This is known as the &amp;quot;lag&amp;quot; phase. The yeast begins to uptake minerals and amino acids (nitrogen) from wort. Amino acids are used to build proteins. The amino acids that yeast can not obtain or get fast enough from wort need to manufactured by the yeast. Much the same way that humans need 100% of essential vitamins and minerals to make it through the day, yeast cells also need 100% of their vitamins and minerals (nutrients) to make it through a fermentation properly nourished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All-malt wort is an excellent source of nitrogen, minerals, and vitamins. Most of the vitamins yeast need for proper fermentation are supplied in wort. Some examples of necessary vitamins are riboflavin, inositol, and biotin. Important minerals are phosphorous, sulfur, copper, iron, zinc, potassium, and sodium. As the minerals and vitamins are taken up from the wort, yeast begins to manufacture enzymes necessary for growth. Wort can be supplemented with additional minerals and vitamins by using commercially available yeast nutrients, which will improve the health and performance of the yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Oxygen is rapidly absorbed from the wort during the lag phase. The yeast need this oxygen to grow in order to produce important cell wall constituents. It is important to provide enough oxygen into wort at the beginning of fermentation. By shaking the fermentor, a homebrewer is able to, at best, add about half the recommended level of 10 ppm oxygen into solution. This will produce satisfactory fermentation results, but to make sure a healthy fermentation will take place, oxygen can be added to the fermentor with several commercially available systems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The lag phase can be carried out at a higher temperature than the rest of fermentation because very little flavor compounds are produced. Ethanol production is also very limited, therefore ester formation is not a concern. Some brewers begin the lag phase for ales at 72-75F, and complete the fermentation at 68F. This can be done with success for lagers too, with starting the lag phase at 72-75F and lowering the fermentation temperature to 50-55F.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Brewers will not see any visible activity during the lag phase, hence the way it got its name. But this phase is very important in building new healthy cells that will be able to complete fermentation. If the wort is overpitched, this will decrease the lag phase, and each individual cell will not be as healthy at the end of fermentation. Although it may feel reassuring to a homebrewer to see fermentation activity within one hour of pitching yeast, it is not best for the yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Exponential growth phase:  1-4  days:&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As the yeast comes out of lag phase, it starts to consume the sugars in the solution. CO2 is produced, which starts to expel from the airlock and create a surface layer of foam on the beer. The exponential, or logarithmic, phase of yeast growth is now starting. During this phase, the cell count will increase rapidly, and ethanol and flavor compounds will be produced. Airlocks will bubble like crazy within this time frame. The aroma that escapes from the airlock of most neutral ale yeast fermentations has an &amp;quot;olive&amp;quot; smell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The exponential phase occurs because yeast rapidly consumes the sugar. Wort sugar is consumed by yeast in a certain pattern. Glucose is used first, then fructose and sucrose. These are simple sugars, and can be quickly shuttled into metabolism. The glucose concentration in wort is roughly 14% of wort sugars.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Maltose is the centerpiece sugar of  malt and is a very important flavor component. It makes up 59% of wort sugars, and its use by yeast gives beer its characteristic flavors. There are 1 to 5 genes in yeast DNA that &amp;quot;turn on&amp;quot; in response to maltose, allowing for fermentation by brewers yeast.  After maltose enters the cell through a special uptake mechanism, it is hydrolysed into glucose units by maltase enzymes. Glucose can then enter the normal metabolism cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Best Practices ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Zinc ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Best Practices - Zinc Addition (Escarpment)&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If not using a nutrient blend, most brewers will use a hydrated zinc salt such as zinc sulfate heptahydrate (ZnSO₄ x 7H₂O). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In general, most brewers target between 0.1-1 ppm of elemental zinc in wort. In general lager yeasts need less zinc and ale yeasts need more. In both cases, While 1 ppm is technically an excessive amount, solubility of zinc additions in wort is often inefficient as the zinc can be precipitated in trub. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
How do I calculate how much zinc to add? Time for some math! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Zinc ions are 22.8% of the molecular weight of zinc sulfate heptahydrate (65.3 out of 287g/mol).&lt;br /&gt;
* To get to 1 ppm zinc, we need to add 1/0.228 = 4.39 mg/L (ppm) of zinc sulfate heptahydrate.&lt;br /&gt;
* So to get to our range of 0.1 - 1 ppm zinc, this would translate to a measurable quantity of between 0.04- 0.44 g per 1hL (100L). To shoot for the middle, 0.2 g per 1 hL would be appropriate. This translates to 2 g in 10 hL of wort. &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep in mind that zinc solubility is never 100% efficient, and this efficiency is not consistent between brewhouses. You may need to dial in the amount you add upward or downward based on the yeast performance you observe. &lt;br /&gt;
* Remember to factor in the zinc concentration of your source water. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Here is our recommended nutrient regime,&#039;&#039;&#039; including zinc addition. This especially works well to boost Lager yeast fermentation and repitching performance: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Zinc Sulfate Heptahydrate - 0.2g/hL, made into a sterile solution and added directly to the tank &lt;br /&gt;
* We recommend both Yeast Lightning and Zinc because they offer different benefits and are ideally added to the wort at different times in the process. &lt;br /&gt;
* Adding the zinc to the fermentor helps avoid the solubility problem mentioned above, since zinc added in the brewhouse will partially precipitate with the trub. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Expat Brewers&#039;&#039;&#039;…  What is an ingredient in your arsenal that often goes unnoticed or underappreciated? What do you like it in? &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* ​​Zinc sulfate in everything …. &lt;br /&gt;
* I’ve heard it’s good for pushing beers through fast and reducing acetaldehyde. &lt;br /&gt;
* how much Zinc Sulphate would you recommend? &lt;br /&gt;
* all depends on what kind of zinc sulphate you get. There&#039;s monohydrate and heptahydrate - the latter having 7 times the amount of water molecules and therefore ratio is different. …. &lt;br /&gt;
* I still use it with fresh yeast. whilst packed with nutrients it&#039;s still quite a traumatic process for yeast - and if you want to build a healthy second gen with beautiful healthy cell walls, then zinc is perfect. …. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Oxygen ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Oxygen Flow Rate (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* I know it’s generally supposed to be 8-10ppm dissolved oxygen for ales and more for lagers.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Gravity Points divided by 4 is a good starting point, for ppm for each batch - .044 / 4 = 11ppm. Lager yeasts needs extra and big beers above .052 need a boost. No meter equals guess work, which is where a lot of breweries start. Good luck! &lt;br /&gt;
* For my 7bbl, knocking out through a 1 inch hose, that’s 30 foot long at 68 degrees, with an 8 inch sintered stone from glacier tanks. I use a DO meter to get me in the range of 12-18ppm for ales. I inject at around 0.3 LPM for the duration of the 30-40 min knockout. Its imperative to have DO meter for measuring it. It’s super easy to inject oxygen amounts that are toxic to yeast and will affect fermentation performance.&lt;br /&gt;
* I have a 5 hL system and knockout at about 25 lpm / 22 C. Oxygen flow is about 0.15 lpm for duration of transfer, resulting in about 10-12 ppm. &lt;br /&gt;
* A while back I did a bunch of experiments. For our stone and knockout procedure, 1.5 LPM was the best set point to get turbulent mixing. Any lower and the oxygen just floated on top of the wort and any higher and it causes foaming and huge bubbles that also didn&#039;t dissolve.&lt;br /&gt;
== Harvesting ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Harvesting from the cone for late-fermentation dry hopping - Top Crop&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is the most effective time for harvesting, and definitely what we recommend: wait until you get a good harvest on the tank and then dry hop so you can reuse that yeast. When you’re already investing a lot in the hops, repitching your yeast is a good way to make those investments work for you and keep costs down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Generally you’ll want to time your harvest when viability is still high, and enough yeast has collected at the bottom of the cone. Close to terminal gravity is a great time to harvest from the cone. There is a sweet spot right as the fermentation is approaching terminal when you can harvest yeast and still dry hop when the yeast is active. This can help encourage hop creep to occur faster. Keep in mind that the initial burst of from the cone is trub and potentially a small amount of dead yeast cells — keep a close eye on the color and consistency of what’s coming down the line to make sure you grab the healthy yeast slurry, and be sure not to draw the slurry too quickly or you will punch through straight to beer.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Harvesting.png|frameless|419x419px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CBB 340 - Calusa:&#039;&#039;&#039; He’s 75 generations in with his yeast&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Soft crash to below 60 (15.5) as soon as beer is done and d-rest is done, and they saw viability increase by more than 10% (80s before, high 90’s after) as soon as VDK is done and they see a slight increase in pH they harvest.&lt;br /&gt;
* When they soft crash they put a few psi on the tank. &lt;br /&gt;
* (Grimm artisanal is over 200 generations)  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sunflower Oil ===&lt;br /&gt;
Matt Couch Brewmaster Lazarus Brewing Company &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sunflower oil.png|frameless|824x824px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Yeast]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hefeweizen&amp;diff=214</id>
		<title>Hefeweizen</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hefeweizen&amp;diff=214"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T06:26:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== BB Article ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Going Old School&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== malts ===&lt;br /&gt;
The grist for Schneider Weisse Original contains 60 percent wheat with Pilsner making up most of the barley malt. (Other breweries use up to 70 percent wheat, which can result in a stuck mash, and that’s why breweries may choose to mix rice hulls into the mash.) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== mash ===&lt;br /&gt;
Schneider’s step-and-decoction mash lasts about 3 hours, with rests at 95°F (35°C), 113°F (45°C), 122°F (50°C), and 147°F (64°C), at which point the brewers pull a one-third decoction. That is heated to 152°F (67°C) for 10 minutes, increased to 158°F (70°C) for 20 minutes, and then to 203°F (95°C) for 5 minutes. When the decoction is transferred back, the mash sets at 167°F (75°C). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A slightly simpler alternative works well at home and is inspired by a beer that once won an American Homebrewers Association Club-Only Competition for Bill Aimonetti. He begins mashing at 105°F (41°C), then raises the temperature to 112°F (44°C) for 25 minutes. Then comes a 40 percent decoction before the mash is heated to 160°F (71°C) for 15 minutes and brought to a boil for 20 minutes before it’s re-combined with the decoction at 147°F (64°C) for 20 minutes. The temperature is brought up to 160°F (71°C) for 30 minutes, then to 170°F (77°C) for mash-out. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The important rests to consider are the ones that Schneider does at 113°F (45°C) and 122°F (50°C). Aimonetti does not employ the latter, a protein rest, and Schneider keeps it short to avoid degrading the proteins, which will damage head retention.  The rest at 112°F (44°C) or 113°F (45°C), appropriately called a ferulic acid rest, is essential for creating 4-vinyl guaiacol. (clove and spice ) …... It is freed by water extraction and enzymatic activity and is maximized at 113°F (45°C) and a pH of 5.7. In contrast, mashing in at 131°F (55°C) rather than 113° F (45°C) lowers the 4-vinyl guaiacol content in a beer by 30 percent. …..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== tank shape ===&lt;br /&gt;
The variance between wheat beers fermented in different-shaped vessels can also be measured. German researchers discovered that cylindroconical tanks dramatically suppressed both esters and phenols, particularly when compared to open fermentation. They measured 5.1 mg/liter of isoamyl acetate in open tanks and 2.5 mg/l of 4-vinyl guaiacol, compared to 2.3 mg/l and 1.7 mg/l, respectively, in conicals. In upright closed tanks, isoamyl acetate was reduced to 3.5 mg/l and 4-vinyl guaiacol to 1.6.  …..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== ferm temps ===&lt;br /&gt;
Schneider pitches its yeast at 61−63°F (16−17°C), and the energy created during fermentation will push it to 72°F (22°C) after 5 days. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://beerandbrewing.com/traditional-hefeweizen-worth-the-trouble/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Banana ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Brewing considerations for the enhancement of banana flavors&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Open non-pressurized fermentation in combination with a suitable yeast like the classic W68 can already produce a sufficiently strong banana flavor. High OG or High-Gravity wort can promote the banana flavor further. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Higher mash in temperature reduces the clove flavor significantly and additionally promotes the banana flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The combined effect of fermentation temperature, aeration and pitch rate adjustments are more difficult to predict. While higher fermentation temperatures increase the amount of produced esters they also increase fusel alcohols and other by-products. Therefore, the sensory outcome is not always positive. It is best to start the fermentation at 17-18°C and let it rise freely during the fermentation. Some isoamyl acetate is lost to the air during the primary fermentation. Temperatures above 21°C increase the amount of isoamyl acetate during the secondary fermentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== pitch rate ===&lt;br /&gt;
Tinkering with the pitch rate or the aeration to force a banana flavor should be considered as a last resort treatment. While there can be obviously too little isoamyl acetate there can also be too much of it. In addition, some aromas like ethyl acetate in concentrations above 45mg/l mask the banana flavor and have a much higher shelf life in the resulting beer. If a Weissbier tastes fruity for a prolonged period of time but does not develop a banana flavor it does not automatically indicate a lack of isoamyl acetate. The desired banana flavor simply could have been masked by other flavors. To date there is no conclusive scientific evidence that a change of the pitch rate (normal: 5 mio. /ml) or the aeration forces a banana flavor. It is therefore advised to aim for a healthy, normal fermentation and to change the other parameters to influence banana character of the beer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Aim 2: 2 – 4 mg/l Isoamyl acetate, Ethyl acetate &amp;lt;45 mg/l&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Advice: High percentage of wheat, W68 yeast with 4-5 mio. /ml pitching rate. Pitch at 18°C, let temperature rise freely. After primary fermentation move to secondary and ferment warm for 2-3 weeks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://braumagazin.de/article/brewing-bavarian-weissbier-all-you-ever-wanted-to-know/  &#039;&#039;&#039;(Lots more details in this article)&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |&amp;gt;66 wheat malt&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |High Gravity&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |(55°C protein rest: 5-10 min)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
63°C maltose rest: 30-45 min&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
72°C saccharification rest: 30 min &lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |Do not aerate&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ferment @ 16-24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |alkalinity? 0-5°dH &lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |High residual alkalinities help the formation of ferulic acid at 45°C. Water treatment should potentially be carried out after this rest.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The impact on the banana flavor is discussed controversially. Analytically low pH increases banana flavor; sensory it is however reduced. &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== London ale ===&lt;br /&gt;
London Ale adjusts to a cylindrical conical fv in about 2 generations. So they use fresh pitches on their American wheat (white nose) cause that will stress it a little and gives it a &#039;&#039;&#039;touch of banana&#039;&#039;&#039; CBB 316 - Uberbrews&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Weldwerks ==&lt;br /&gt;
Hefe - more headspace makes more esters. Pushes the temps higher for esters - CBB 254       &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:German]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Styles]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hefeweizen&amp;diff=213</id>
		<title>Hefeweizen</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hefeweizen&amp;diff=213"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T06:22:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== BB Article ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Going Old School&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== malts ===&lt;br /&gt;
The grist for Schneider Weisse Original contains 60 percent wheat with Pilsner making up most of the barley malt. (Other breweries use up to 70 percent wheat, which can result in a stuck mash, and that’s why breweries may choose to mix rice hulls into the mash.) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== mash ===&lt;br /&gt;
Schneider’s step-and-decoction mash lasts about 3 hours, with rests at 95°F (35°C), 113°F (45°C), 122°F (50°C), and 147°F (64°C), at which point the brewers pull a one-third decoction. That is heated to 152°F (67°C) for 10 minutes, increased to 158°F (70°C) for 20 minutes, and then to 203°F (95°C) for 5 minutes. When the decoction is transferred back, the mash sets at 167°F (75°C). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A slightly simpler alternative works well at home and is inspired by a beer that once won an American Homebrewers Association Club-Only Competition for Bill Aimonetti. He begins mashing at 105°F (41°C), then raises the temperature to 112°F (44°C) for 25 minutes. Then comes a 40 percent decoction before the mash is heated to 160°F (71°C) for 15 minutes and brought to a boil for 20 minutes before it’s re-combined with the decoction at 147°F (64°C) for 20 minutes. The temperature is brought up to 160°F (71°C) for 30 minutes, then to 170°F (77°C) for mash-out. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The important rests to consider are the ones that Schneider does at 113°F (45°C) and 122°F (50°C). Aimonetti does not employ the latter, a protein rest, and Schneider keeps it short to avoid degrading the proteins, which will damage head retention.  The rest at 112°F (44°C) or 113°F (45°C), appropriately called a ferulic acid rest, is essential for creating 4-vinyl guaiacol. (clove and spice ) …... It is freed by water extraction and enzymatic activity and is maximized at 113°F (45°C) and a pH of 5.7. In contrast, mashing in at 131°F (55°C) rather than 113° F (45°C) lowers the 4-vinyl guaiacol content in a beer by 30 percent. …..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== tank shape ===&lt;br /&gt;
The variance between wheat beers fermented in different-shaped vessels can also be measured. German researchers discovered that cylindroconical tanks dramatically suppressed both esters and phenols, particularly when compared to open fermentation. They measured 5.1 mg/liter of isoamyl acetate in open tanks and 2.5 mg/l of 4-vinyl guaiacol, compared to 2.3 mg/l and 1.7 mg/l, respectively, in conicals. In upright closed tanks, isoamyl acetate was reduced to 3.5 mg/l and 4-vinyl guaiacol to 1.6.  …..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== ferm temps ===&lt;br /&gt;
Schneider pitches its yeast at 61−63°F (16−17°C), and the energy created during fermentation will push it to 72°F (22°C) after 5 days. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://beerandbrewing.com/traditional-hefeweizen-worth-the-trouble/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Banana ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Brewing considerations for the enhancement of banana flavors&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Open non-pressurized fermentation in combination with a suitable yeast like the classic W68 can already produce a sufficiently strong banana flavor. High OG or High-Gravity wort can promote the banana flavor further. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Higher mash in temperature reduces the clove flavor significantly and additionally promotes the banana flavor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The combined effect of fermentation temperature, aeration and pitch rate adjustments are more difficult to predict. While higher fermentation temperatures increase the amount of produced esters they also increase fusel alcohols and other by-products. Therefore, the sensory outcome is not always positive. It is best to start the fermentation at 17-18°C and let it rise freely during the fermentation. Some isoamyl acetate is lost to the air during the primary fermentation. Temperatures above 21°C increase the amount of isoamyl acetate during the secondary fermentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== pitch rate ===&lt;br /&gt;
Tinkering with the pitch rate or the aeration to force a banana flavor should be considered as a last resort treatment. While there can be obviously too little isoamyl acetate there can also be too much of it. In addition, some aromas like ethyl acetate in concentrations above 45mg/l mask the banana flavor and have a much higher shelf life in the resulting beer. If a Weissbier tastes fruity for a prolonged period of time but does not develop a banana flavor it does not automatically indicate a lack of isoamyl acetate. The desired banana flavor simply could have been masked by other flavors. To date there is no conclusive scientific evidence that a change of the pitch rate (normal: 5 mio. /ml) or the aeration forces a banana flavor. It is therefore advised to aim for a healthy, normal fermentation and to change the other parameters to influence banana character of the beer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Aim 2: 2 – 4 mg/l Isoamyl acetate, Ethyl acetate &amp;lt;45 mg/l&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Advice: High percentage of wheat, W68 yeast with 4-5 mio. /ml pitching rate. Pitch at 18°C, let temperature rise freely. After primary fermentation move to secondary and ferment warm for 2-3 weeks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://braumagazin.de/article/brewing-bavarian-weissbier-all-you-ever-wanted-to-know/  &#039;&#039;&#039;(Lots more details in this article)&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |&amp;gt;66 wheat malt&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |High Gravity&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |(55°C protein rest: 5-10 min)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
63°C maltose rest: 30-45 min&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
72°C saccharification rest: 30 min &lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |Do not aerate&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ferment @ 16-24&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |alkalinity? 0-5°dH &lt;br /&gt;
| valign=&amp;quot;Top&amp;quot; |High residual alkalinities help the formation of ferulic acid at 45°C. Water treatment should potentially be carried out after this rest.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The impact on the banana flavor is discussed controversially. Analytically low pH increases banana flavor; sensory it is however reduced. &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &#039;&#039;&#039;London ale&#039;&#039;&#039; ===&lt;br /&gt;
London Ale adjusts to a cylindrical conical fv in about 2 generations. So they use fresh pitches on their American wheat (white nose) cause that will stress it a little and gives it a &#039;&#039;&#039;touch of banana&#039;&#039;&#039; CBB 316 - Uberbrews&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Weldwerks ==&lt;br /&gt;
Hefe - more headspace makes more esters. Pushes the temps higher for esters - CBB 254       &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:German]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Styles]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Whirlpool&amp;diff=212</id>
		<title>Whirlpool</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Whirlpool&amp;diff=212"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:59:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Tight cones ==&lt;br /&gt;
Achieving a Tighter Trub Cone in a Whirlpool - LM Notebook&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Whirlpool Design and Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Optimal Dimensions&#039;&#039;&#039;: Aim for a height to diameter ratio (H/D) of 0.5-1.0, with newer installations favoring lower values. This ratio promotes faster settling due to the larger diameter and reduced height.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Control Wort Entry Velocity:&#039;&#039;&#039; The entering wort stream volume should be proportional to the H/D ratio. The entry velocity should be 3.5-5 m/sec, injected at a 20-30° angle to the vessel tangent, about 1 m from the vessel floor for maximum energy conversion efficiency. A flow rate below 2.4 m/sec during transfer from the kettle helps minimize trub floc break-up.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Appropriate Base Design:&#039;&#039;&#039; Shallow, conical bases with angles around 30° are favorable for trub cone formation.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Minimize Secondary Eddies:&#039;&#039;&#039; Install an annular, horizontal metal grid or rings to disrupt undesirable eddy currents that interfere with trub sedimentation.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Control Wort Withdrawal:&#039;&#039;&#039; Slow down wort withdrawal as the trub cone becomes exposed to prevent slumping and spreading. Consider multiple wort draw-off points at varying heights to allow for drawing off clearer wort as the vessel empties.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Upstream Brewing Practices ===&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Grist Composition and Milling:&#039;&#039;&#039; A coarser grist with a larger husk particle size improves lauter grain bed permeability and ultimately contributes to better trub formation.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Mashing Process:&#039;&#039;&#039; Avoid excessive shear forces during mashing to prevent the formation of gelled proteins, which can hinder trub formation.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Wort Transfer:&#039;&#039;&#039; Minimize shear forces during wort transfer from the kettle to the whirlpool by using a slow-running pump with an open-throated impeller and maintaining a transfer velocity below 1.3 m/s. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hot Side]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=211</id>
		<title>Hops</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hops&amp;diff=211"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:54:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Mash Hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park - Janish mash hops 2lbs in 10bbls just to get iron content down (for oxidation) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Thiols - R&#039;&#039;&#039;:&#039;&#039;&#039; Done a bunch of brews with mash hopping combined with Thiolized yeast and the results are fascinating.... &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Saaz mash hop at a rate of 5kg/25hL batch resulted in a beer bursting with grapefruit notes, &lt;br /&gt;
* Cascade mash hop at the same rate (in essentially the same malt and kettle hop profile) was bursting with guava notes.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hop Varietal Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Misc: ===&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
** good “base” hop, &#039;&#039;&#039;NZ&#039;&#039;&#039; Is good for top note (CBB - Firestone)&lt;br /&gt;
** CBB 321 - Varietal: El dorado is a great supporting hop, but not on its own&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Bravo Hops&#039;&#039;&#039; (Brulosophy Hop Chronicles)&lt;br /&gt;
** I couldn’t agree more with the results from blind participants, Bravo imparted a deliciously pungent citrus flavor balanced nicely by notes of tropical fruit and a hint of floral character that I think would work just as beautifully in a liberally hopped IPA as it would a less aggressive Amber Ale or Saison. And on top of all that, the bitterness quality was smooth and enjoyable. Bravo is an absolute winner in my book&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Zappa&#039;&#039;&#039; Hop Tips: (from CLS farms) &lt;br /&gt;
** Kettle: Maximize on herbal and spice qualities.&lt;br /&gt;
** Whirlpool: Introduce the wider and multifaceted aromas of Zappa.&lt;br /&gt;
** Dry Hop: Elicit the hop’s more tropical notes of passion fruit and mango, grape, or fruity pebbles.​​&lt;br /&gt;
** &#039;&#039;&#039;Complementary Hops:&#039;&#039;&#039; Dependent on which part of the aromatic spectrum you want to focus on. Maximize Zappa®’s tropical notes by combining with El Dorado®, Mosaic or Strata; for red fruits and berries look to Cashmere or Idaho Gem; for citrus a combination of Centennial, Cascade, and Chinook would play well.&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Sabro&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
**CBB 340 - Calusa uses Sabro at about 20% to keep it dialed back (also Sabro has mouthfeel)&lt;br /&gt;
**We found that &#039;&#039;&#039;Talus&#039;&#039;&#039; gives a lot more coconut taste is used in the whirlpool vs dry hop, I assume Sabro is the same&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== C-Hops: ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually dry hop is less than/around 25%&lt;br /&gt;
* Blending the c-hops with the sexy hops makes the aroma stick around more (chinook, Columbus)&lt;br /&gt;
* He thinks it’s something about the oils that makes the aromas stick around more.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Southern Hemisphere ===&lt;br /&gt;
Wibby Loves &#039;&#039;&#039;Waiti hops&#039;&#039;&#039; cause low alpha and high oils and you can add tons to the whirlpool. Adds a new dimension to his hop program.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Breakside - &#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039; needs a very short contact time (48 hours or left)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bitterness ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 192 Burke Gilliam: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Mid boil - chinook, strata, have nice complicated bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Warrior has good citrus piney bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246 Slice. Keep aware of the hops; IBU isn’t IBU. C-hops are more assertive (more co-humulone for example) so you can’t just change recipes. He makes c-hop beers have less IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Most single IPAs beers 40-60 IBUs&lt;br /&gt;
* Example: c-Hops would be 10-15% of the kettle and the rest would be other hop varieties (just to give some bite), mainly whirlpool&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusual hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;What&#039;s the most unorthodox hop you&#039;ve used in a dry-hop? (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Calypso&#039;&#039;&#039; also has an extremely high quantity of thiols that work well with Berkeley Yeast&#039;s Tropics yeast and OYL&#039;s Cosmic Punch. &lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop an APA with &#039;&#039;&#039;Fuggles&#039;&#039;&#039;, Blew my mind. &lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Strisselspalt&#039;&#039;&#039;. Used it in a Sencha IPA. Paired it with Liberty and Vic Secret. I really liked the outcome. &lt;br /&gt;
* We just dry hopped a Vienna Pils with &#039;&#039;&#039;Saphir.&#039;&#039;&#039; Not sure if that counts or not. …. Not really, I mean, that&#039;s what Firestone Walker Pivo Pils is dry hopped with, right? &lt;br /&gt;
* We’ve thrown &#039;&#039;&#039;saaz&#039;&#039;&#039; in the dry hopping mix at twice the dosing rate to some new world varietals for a pale and we got pretty interesting matcha green tea vibes, was pretty cool, definitely a one off concept.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Don’t sleep on Idaho Gem.&#039;&#039;&#039; Idaho gem and strata, that is a combo made in heaven and then you get a better idea what gem is like.  I always go heavy Idaho gem so I’d say 60-40. whirlpool: it also has a good amount of survivable flavors/aromas similar to Idaho 7  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Experience with new Styrian hop varieties? (Dragon, Wolf, Eagle, etc.) (Reddit)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian wolf is fantastic. Very fruity when used for dry hop. &lt;br /&gt;
** Styrian Cardinal is pretty cool. Definitely has the apple/strawberry thing as advertised as well as some apricot noble spice. &lt;br /&gt;
** Just used Styrian wolf in a saison during whirlpool. The aromatics and flavours are quite distinct; elderflower and tropical fruits are present but I feel they are complimented by a nice Noble hope spice which brings a full flavoured feel to the finished product.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unusng Hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Brewer&#039;s Perspectives: Unsung Hops (Beer and Brewing Sean Buchan )&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“In supporting roles, we tend to use a good amount of &#039;&#039;&#039;El Dorado&#039;&#039;&#039;,” says Sean Buchan of Cerebral Brewing, “but in small amounts—10–20 percent of the hops bill. It can get excessively sweet on you really quick, especially if you combine it with other hops that have that perceived sweetness, so we tend to use it in conjunction with other hops that will tame that back a bit. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“We’ve been using a lot more Huell Melon and Hallertau Blanc in IPAs, and the &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Huell Melon/Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; combo has worked really well for us. It tends to bring out more of the melon notes already there in Galaxy, and we get more pineapple and honeydew melon. Similarly, &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Hallertau Blanc and Motueka&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; work well together to complement bright hops, and we use it with Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy as well.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Our Remote Island IPA is &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy, Hallertau Blanc, and Motueka,&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; with Galaxy being 50 percent and the other two the remaining 50 percent. They work really well to provide a lot more depth and bring out more of the bright pineapple and a hint of lemongrass that I always enjoy. It adds a bit of complexity to the hops bill, so it’s not just one big fruit note.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
“I love Columbus, and it works well with Citra at about &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;80 percent Citra, 20 percent Columbus&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;. We use heavier Columbus in the whirpool, then flip the ratio in the dry hop. The Citra lot we have right now is bright with a ton of lychee, passionfruit, and other fun acidic fruits. But in everything we do, I don’t want the fruit to dominate everything else, so Columbus brings that back a bit with a touch of classic citrus and a little bit of dank. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dosage Rates ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== American IPA and Hazy IPA ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reddit- Curious what everyone&#039;s dry hop ratio is per bbl based on their standard American IPA and Hazy IPA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* For us, we do 2.5lbs/bbl for American IPA and 3.5lbs/bbl for our Hazy IPA&lt;br /&gt;
* Diminishing returns are real. That said, go 4-5# per barrel on a 2 stage DH for hazys. Whirlpool hop extracts and cryo/t-45s can be great too.&lt;br /&gt;
* After working somewhere that did upwards of #6.5/bbl on hazy I&#039;ve found the sweet spot between #2-#3/bbl. At #2.2/bbl my Citra hazy is just as juicy and hop forward as the #4.5/bbl beer I use to have to brew.&lt;br /&gt;
* We go with 3#/bbl. Though when we get into 2-stage/double dry hopping it&#039;s generally around 5#/bbl&lt;br /&gt;
* Typically around 5lb/bbl on our hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* Around 5 for hazy, around 3-4 for anything else&lt;br /&gt;
* Usually 3 for west coast, 6+ for hazies. Hotside usually looks like 1.5-2.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.75-2.25 - East/West Coast 2.25-2.75 – Hazy&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5kg (3.3lbs)/bbl for hazies, 1kg (2.2lbs)/bbl other IPAs&lt;br /&gt;
* American or west coast we are around 2#/bbl. For hazy our standard is 6# (flagship is 4 and we’ve gone up to 10)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 1.5lb in the kettle, 3lbs dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
* Biggest positive effect I’ve seen on our proverbial bang-per-buck is doing the (now almost industry standard it seems) soft crash to 55F for 1-2 days, harvesting yeast after first 14 hours, doing initial dump, then a second dump day 2, then dry-hopping at that 55F. Haven’t noticed too much difference between holding the beer on those dry hops for 2 days vs 5 days, even with twice daily CO2 rousing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Varietal:&#039;&#039;&#039;1.5-2lbs/bbl for whirlpool. Usually 2-3 varieties - CBB 321&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Parish:&#039;&#039;&#039; No hops in bbl. About 1lb/bbl at flameout Then cool below 180 and add 3lb/bbl for whirlpool (takes about 30 minutes to get to 180) - CBB 349&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Sapwood:&#039;&#039;&#039;Whirlpool is close to 2lbs/bbl - CBB 270&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lawson:&#039;&#039;&#039; 1-2lbs/bbl dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Breakside -&#039;&#039;&#039; if they don’t dry hop twice then they felt like lots of hops don’t matter. Low dry hop amounts for each charge. Citra is always good for the second or late hop, for the top notes&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CBB Hazy Now:&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Green Cheek - 165 coolpool. Don’t go over 1lb/bbl in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* North Park - also 1lb/bbl due to constrictions&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park&#039;&#039;&#039; - Fidens - does 2lb/bbl whirlpool, dry hops in small quantities over a few days. And they don’t rouse&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;360 Burlington&#039;&#039;&#039;: 30bbl: w.pool - 22lb (9.9kg).  dry hop - 143 lb (64kg - 18 g/L)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hop saturation point: R -&#039;&#039;&#039; The general wisdom seems to be the higher the abv the more you can saturate the beer with hops. We’ve got great results at 5-6g/L on a 5% beer but we’re at 8g/L IPAs and pretty much double that for DIPA’s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== WC PILS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Firestone? Does about 1.5lb/bbl dry hop and higher abv (5.9%) for balance (lager yeast you don’t get esters to fill out the profile) Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Survivables ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Survivables.png|none|frame]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Reverse Engineering Cryo Pop ===&lt;br /&gt;
(TRI-2304CR) Blend (thirdleap brewing&#039;&#039;&#039;)&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A blend of 46% Idaho 7 / 25% Citra / 24% Loral / 5% Talus is closest to TRI-2304CR &lt;br /&gt;
* a blend of 65% Idaho 7 / 33% Mosaic / 2% Citra maximizes each “survivable” compound level.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Misc Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;CBB 270 - sapwood&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hops dry hopped at a lower ph have a generic hoppines but using more potent hops like Nelson or riwaka can stand up to it more&lt;br /&gt;
*  Dry hop sub 40 degrees F (they started warmer but studies show warmer pulls out stuff like myrcene)&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=West_Coast_Pilsner&amp;diff=210</id>
		<title>West Coast Pilsner</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=West_Coast_Pilsner&amp;diff=210"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:54:05Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== WC pils round table ==&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 257&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== malts ===&lt;br /&gt;
Everyone has moved away from German Pilsner towards domestic Pilsner &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Not as robust as a German malt, little richer, &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Timbo (h.land park) 45% Rahr 2-row, 45% weyerman Floor malted vo(?) pils, 10% Carafoam &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Domestic is less overwhelming &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== fermentation ===&lt;br /&gt;
Can ferment a little warmer cause it doesn’t need to be as clean as a lager. Knockout at 54 (12), ferment at 56(13) dry hop as hot as possible, in the 60’s (H.Park) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sam- little warmer, 16ppm oxygen (vs lager which is 8-9ppm) be careful with cold ferms, high sulfur hops can clash with the sulfur in the low temp lager term.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nick- goes a little cooler &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
Lower abv so they build structure in the body to hold up to the hops&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Timbo is 3.5+ lb/bbl&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other guy (Firestone?) does about 1.5lb/bbl dry hop and higher abv (5.9%) for balance (lager yeast you don’t get esters to fill out the profile) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nick- 1-1.5 lbs/bbl dry hop (doesn’t over saturate)ops: sam- start with noble in the boil, get that traditional German flavor as a bottom layer. &#039;&#039;&#039;Mandarin and melon&#039;&#039;&#039; they really like (new German hops) spalt select in boil&#039;&#039;&#039;. Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; is good on these beers, always tries to get some of that. And &#039;&#039;&#039;citra&#039;&#039;&#039; is good with lager ferms. He’s a little more careful with mosaic. Their core wcpils is &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039; hot side, dry hop with &#039;&#039;&#039;mosaic/nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;. They save the nobles for Italian Pilsners &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bob - low alpha hops on hot side, recently noble heritage but US grown, instead of 1lb of high alpha they use 3lb low alpha cause that high vegetal matter gives it a little weight and structure. Cold side- lager kicks more sulfur for sure. Can play well or not. Bright tropical high tone citrus zest hops play well with sulfur; &#039;&#039;&#039;citra, mosaic, Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039;. Maybe those old school hops help build thiol stuff that works well with the sulfur in the lager yeast. They do 69/30/10 and whirlpool to build layers of texture. The varietals they like are Adina, super saaz f/michigan, they like floral delicate citrus and not so much herbal, Crosby sterling, &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firestone doesn’t layer so much in the kettle &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other guy - Calista may be a good one for boil and whirlpool &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== dangers ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== dank overload ====&lt;br /&gt;
Lager ferment already leads to dank/weed. So too much danky hops can lead to garlic or too danky&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== hop creep ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Hop creep is scary cause lager yeast works at low temps. They found that 60 is good. If they go below 55 they get a kind of gourd flavor from hop creep. They get a full Plato, if shooting for Timbo to be 2.7 then they plan for 3.5 and it will creep down&lt;br /&gt;
* Other guy sees very little hop creep cause they do a faster fermentation and maybe cause if their yeast strain (it’s very flocculant) (welcome to la). They get down to 1.8-2 Plato before dry hopping &lt;br /&gt;
* Switching away from German malt maybe helps cause they kind of hit the enzyme limit (?) &lt;br /&gt;
* German hops have a lot of hop creep potential &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
They dry hop at about 60 (15.5)  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wibby ==&lt;br /&gt;
Loves &#039;&#039;&#039;Waiti hops&#039;&#039;&#039; cause low alpha and high oils and you can add tons to the whirlpool. Adds a new dimension to his hop program. CBB 185  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== North Park ==&lt;br /&gt;
When &#039;&#039;&#039;testing new hops&#039;&#039;&#039; the make west coast Pilsner and &#039;&#039;&#039;dry hop at about 2lbs/bb&#039;&#039;&#039;l  CBB 386 Fidens, Sapwood, and North Park&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hop_combos&amp;diff=209</id>
		<title>Hop combos</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Hop_combos&amp;diff=209"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:52:07Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hop Combinations that Emulate Fruit Flavors ==&lt;br /&gt;
https://patspints.com/2022/06/29/hop-combinations-that-emulate-fruit-flavors/&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dan Shaffer, head brewer at Land Grant Brewing Company&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Citrus Fruits&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* · Orange Juice – Mosaic, Amarillo, Centennial&lt;br /&gt;
* · Orange Rind – Bravo&lt;br /&gt;
* · Grapefruit – Simcoe, Amarillo&lt;br /&gt;
* · Lemon – Lemondrop, Citra, Centennial, Loral Cryo&lt;br /&gt;
* · Lime – Motueka&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Tropical Fruits&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* · Mango – Simcoe, Citra&lt;br /&gt;
* · Passionfruit – Strata, Citra&lt;br /&gt;
* · Pineapple – Sultana, Azacca, Citra&lt;br /&gt;
* · Coconut – Sabro&lt;br /&gt;
* · Guava – Still searching for the right combination&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Berries and Stone Fruits&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* · Peaches – El Dorado, Azacca&lt;br /&gt;
* · Strawberries – Huell Melon, Strata or alternatively Belma&lt;br /&gt;
* · Blueberries – Mosaic&lt;br /&gt;
* · Black Currants – Brambling Cross&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Blending Bangers -  Hop Butcher ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Brewer’s Perspective: CBB Magazine.&#039;&#039;&#039;  The safest way for us to really get to know a hop is to pair it with things we know that work. We know what Citra brings to a beer at 7.5 percent versus 5.75 percent…. We’ll use a hop like Motueka and read that it has a 0.8 oil content, and we want to pair it with Citra which has a range of 1.8 to 2.5, so we start to take into consideration that if we want to dry hop with 2.5 to 3 pounds per barrel, we need to consider the hops we’re using and what their oil contents are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Recently, we got our hands on some Sabro and paired it with some Citra. We went 60 percent Citra and 40 percent Sabro; the net result was that the Sabro just punched its way through. It was the more intense of the two. So we asked, “How the hell did that happen? We used 60 percent Citra, and it’s the banger here.” Then we looked at the oil content, and Sabro is a 3.8 at max, and Citra is maybe a 2.5. That’s why this beer netted out as it did.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the next beer, we did a Mosaic beer with Sabro, and we took a look at the oil contents and said, “We know what the variable was like with Citra and Sabro at 60/40. Let’s keep the variables consistent and just replace Citra with Mosaic, and learn what’s going on with Sabro.” The Sabro was intense, but not nearly as intense as it was with Citra. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then when you rub certain hops in Cryo form, it can change your perception of those hops. One of those hops for us was Ekuanot. It’s a hop we liked using in smaller amounts because the classic T-90 pellet version contains a decent amount of vegetal/green-pepper characteristics. When we use it in large amounts, that starts to come out and can get a little overbearing. However, when you use Ekuanot Cryo, that vegetal matter is nonexistent. It’s straight tropical fruit to the highest extent. It’s like “Where was this hop my whole life? Why can’t I use this all the time?”  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Misc. Pairings ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Apricot/Pineapple&#039;&#039;&#039;:  R- I’ve used &#039;&#039;&#039;YQH-1320&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;(Elani)&#039;&#039;&#039; with a 50/50 blend of eldo and 1320 and it was apricot/pineapple juice. Def a big fan and am going to be using it more. It was a hazy dipa. Just a couple ibus introduced in the whirlie introduced by .15 lbs per bbl of Idaho 7. Then a big dry hop of 4lbs per bbl split between 1320 and Eldo.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yakima Valley Hops website - &#039;&#039;&#039;Top Hops for Hazy IPAs:&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;Chinook + Columbus + Nugget:&#039;&#039;&#039; This is a classic hop combo that is often overlooked for modern hazies. It might not be as flashy as other combos with newer varieties, but it still hangs with the best of them. Chinook and Nugget together offer up many of the key biotransformation precursors and thiols present in the current superstar Citra. Columbus also offers up the highly sought-after linalool and comes packed with ripe orange aromas. Together, this combo is greater than the sum of its parts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Chinook:&#039;&#039;&#039; This is our favorite sleeper variety that often gets overlooked. Chinook offers the perfect aroma that is packed with biotransformation compounds like Geraniol and Linalool, as well as a little bit of 4-MMP. Hotside, whirlpool, or dry hop, Chinook has amazing things to offer. So basically, just use it in all your beers. &lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Nugget:&#039;&#039;&#039; Another classic variety that has found new life and meaning in hazies. Nugget is packed with biotransformation compounds like Geraniol and 4-MMP and works well on the hotside. Paired up with Chinook, this duo stands toe to toe with even the best modern varieties. &lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;CTZ:&#039;&#039;&#039; Another variety that often gets overlooked, but it is a certifiable banger in Hazy IPAs. Columbus is loaded with Linalool for biotransformation as well as aromas of ripe oranges. Columbus often gets a bad rap as an alpha variety, but when Columbus is picked as an aroma variety, it is bright, beautiful, and fits perfectly in your hazy.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== US ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Dip Hopping&#039;&#039;&#039;-  Who knew you could use &#039;&#039;&#039;chinook and centennial&#039;&#039;&#039; to make a beer that tastes like pineapple and mangoes with no dank, weed, drippy shit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 349 &#039;&#039;&#039;- Parish:&#039;&#039;&#039; Ghost is big on &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe and Cascade&#039;&#039;&#039; on the hot side. Dry hop is mostly Citra with a little cascade&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 374 &#039;&#039;&#039;Fair State&#039;&#039;&#039; - did a 5:1 &#039;&#039;&#039;Strata:Columbus Cry&#039;&#039;&#039;o that was great&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CBB Hazy now&#039;&#039;&#039;:&#039;&#039;&#039; 75% &#039;&#039;&#039;citra&#039;&#039;&#039; 25% &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; is good  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Burke Gilliam CBB 192&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Idaho 7 and galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039; play well together, especially with mosaic&lt;br /&gt;
* Too much Idaho 7 can be have a harsh bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
* W.pool do a 3:1 ratio &#039;&#039;&#039;citra to Idaho&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Citra and mosaic&#039;&#039;&#039; amplify each other and then when you add a &#039;&#039;&#039;touch of galaxy or Idaho&#039;&#039;&#039; it just gets boosted &lt;br /&gt;
Burlington: Hard to be a wizard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 65-70% &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* round out with &#039;&#039;&#039;Idaho 7&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* touch of &#039;&#039;&#039;chinoook&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* early harvest simcoe and idaho 7 are fruitiest&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== NZ ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Sorachi ace and Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; combo, I don’t recall where that combo was recommended  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 246&#039;&#039;&#039;– Slice :&#039;&#039;&#039;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Blending NZ/US hops are fun&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Nelson/Riwaka/Mosaic/Simcoe cryo&#039;&#039;&#039;  Was a fun one&lt;br /&gt;
* Mosaic simcoe only in w.pool&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry hop was even split (4.4lb/bbl so 1.2lb/bbl each)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
likes &#039;&#039;&#039;nectaron&#039;&#039;&#039; a lot and says it rips in a west coast IPA    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Hoppy Lager - R:&#039;&#039;&#039; We’ve done the same base hoppy lager a few times and switched up the hop combos. Favorite so far was &#039;&#039;&#039;Mandarina/Nelson/Nectaron&#039;&#039;&#039;. All 3 in the dry hop. Nelson/Necataron at a 170 degree whirlpool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Nectaron hops - R -&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Used it with &#039;&#039;&#039;Mosaic, Talus, Nelson&#039;&#039;&#039; and got a real tropical coconut vibe. &lt;br /&gt;
* Used it with &#039;&#039;&#039;Kohatu and Wai-iti&#039;&#039;&#039; and it&#039;s all pineapple.&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 439, Noble Savage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Peacharine + Riwaka&#039;&#039;&#039; is his favorite blend — they balance each other out well since they’re opposites.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=West_Coast_IPA&amp;diff=208</id>
		<title>West Coast IPA</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=West_Coast_IPA&amp;diff=208"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:50:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== CBB 309 - Breakside, Firestone Walker, Lawson- west coast ipa ==&lt;br /&gt;
Matt - Firestone, Sean - Lawsons, Ben - Breakside &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ben - 2.2-2.7 is their finishing gravity &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
He puts a little Vienna or Munich just to &#039;&#039;&#039;push the hops from green hop flavor to fruit/over ripe fruit&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== when hop ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Matt - cryo for mid-ferm, sometimes t90 is too gritty for mid term&lt;br /&gt;
* Sean - post fermentation&lt;br /&gt;
* Ben - they leave open during dry hop to get hop creep finished early&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== dosage ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sean - 1-2lbs/bbl dry hop&lt;br /&gt;
* Ben - if they don’t dry hop twice then they felt like lots of hops don’t matter. Low dry hop amounts for each charge. Citra is always good for the second or late hop, for the top notes&lt;br /&gt;
* Firestone - el dorado is good “base” hop, NZ Is good for top note&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ben- doesn’t recirculate cause it picks up too many undesirables  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 286 - WCIPA now! == &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Kelsey - &#039;&#039;&#039;N.Park&#039;&#039;&#039;, Vinnie - &#039;&#039;&#039;R. River&#039;&#039;&#039;,  Evan- &#039;&#039;&#039;Green Cheek&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Malt ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Kelsey- when started used a lot of rahr with a dash of c-40. They’ve reworked it and now they use basically just a really pale Pilsner malt. Hops are the star. Weyerman extra pale is his fave &lt;br /&gt;
* Someone- weyerman has a nice crack to it when using their cheap mill and they get a great extract amount from it&lt;br /&gt;
* Malt COAs are made for 8 Plato beers so if you have a 16 Plato beer you need to double things like FAN amounts &lt;br /&gt;
* Vinnie still uses stuff that has more color, something about Rahr having a mix?&lt;br /&gt;
* Liquor:grist is important: thinner mash gives a drier beer &lt;br /&gt;
* Kelsey- goes softer with water last couple of years. Sulfur to chloride is 2:1 but total calcium is around 50. Total ppm is low, 100 sulfate, 50 chloride. His WCIPA finished around 2.5 Plato  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Fermentation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Vinnie - knockout at 60, ferment 62&lt;br /&gt;
* High ph is bad for hop creep cause low ph helps stop diacytl &lt;br /&gt;
* If 4.3 ph at dry hop they’ll lower it with phosphoric acid &lt;br /&gt;
* Try to finish around 4.4 (under 4.6)&lt;br /&gt;
* Sometimes (someone) does low ph to get low utilization to get more fullness from hops&lt;br /&gt;
* Sometimes low finishing gravity beers they finish a pitter higher ph for more body &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Hops ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Have a grinder next to the scale so you can grind a small handful for smelling. &lt;br /&gt;
* Dump the cone 24 hours after knockout to help stop mercaptan&lt;br /&gt;
* Dump cone 1-3 days after dry hop. Helps with hop creep also&lt;br /&gt;
* Evan- There’s a hop Lilly pad that can form with dry hopping. &lt;br /&gt;
** They dry hop at the end of the day and leave the blowoff open. &lt;br /&gt;
** The next day they put 15psi on the tank, let sit for 1 hour, then blow if off again, then they check from the top at 99% of the hops are in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== WCIPA roundtable ==&lt;br /&gt;
WCIPA panel w/breakside (B) Firestone walker (F) and Lawson’s (L) hosted by Russian River (R) &#039;&#039;&#039;CBB&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;309&#039;&#039;&#039;  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
B- &#039;&#039;&#039;Galaxy&#039;&#039;&#039; needs a very short contact time (48 hours or left)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
B- sweet spot for dry hopping is when there’s about 30,000,000 cells still in suspension. It’s right after they harvest. It’s day 5  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Podcasts ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Green bench, Burial, Russian River ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 385&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Flowables 1kg for 15bbl. 1/2 oz to oz replaces 1lb/bbl dry hop. Purge the bottle after &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Russian River—mixes Pilsner and 2-row.. or 2-row and wheat. Just Pilsner leaves it too flat (8% ish) and uses sugar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Burke Gilliam ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 192:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mid boil - chinook, strata, have nice complicated bitterness, Warrior has good citrus piney bitterness&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hazies he does 5-10 IBUS beginning of boil cause it helps hops shine &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Idaho 7 and galaxy play well together, especially with mosaic. Too much Idaho 7 can be have a harsh bitterness &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
W.pool do a 3:1 ratio citra to Idaho &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Citra and mosaic amplify each other and then when you add a touch of galaxy or Idaho it just gets boosted&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Burlington Beer ===&lt;br /&gt;
CBB 360&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At Fiedens their lower abv beers finish at a higher gravity, higher abv finish at a lower&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Burlington - double IPAs finish higher, like 4 so you get the fluffiness, pale ale finished aroun 2.7-2.8. IPAs finishing at about 3.5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
don&#039;t drop temps in w.pool cause they can&#039;t &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hard to be a Wizard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 65-70% &#039;&#039;&#039;Simcoe&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* round out with &#039;&#039;&#039;Idaho 7&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* touch of &#039;&#039;&#039;chinoook&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
early harvest simcoe and idaho 7 are fruitiest&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
longer on the bine gets more dank&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;NZ Hops&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Uses Whirlpool for lower alpha ones (&#039;&#039;&#039;moutere, kohatu&#039;&#039;&#039; work well in whirlpool)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dry hop with higher alpha&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
They don&#039;t do fermentation hops because after tests they realized they needed to harvest yeast and it made no difference&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== dosage ===&lt;br /&gt;
30bbl &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* w.pool - 22 lb&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* d. hop - 143 lb (18 g/L)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Water&amp;diff=207</id>
		<title>Water</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Water&amp;diff=207"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:44:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Basics ==&lt;br /&gt;
The following minerals found naturally in water are the ones we adjust in brewing:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Calcium (Ca)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Essentially flavour neutral. Promotes clarity and flavour stability of the final beer. Affects enzymatic activity in the mash, protein coagulation during the boil and benefits yeast health. Typical brewing range is 50-150 ppm.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Magnesium (Mg)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds a sour, astringent flavour. An important yeast nutrient, required at a level of least 5 ppm. Levels above 125 ppm have a laxative effect (fun times).Typical brewing range is 5-40 ppm.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Sodium (Na)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Rounds out flavours and accentuates sweetness. Lower concentration tends to produce a cleaner flavour. May taste salty above 150 ppm and harsh / sour above 250 ppm. Typical brewing range is 0-50 ppm, but some special styles (like Gose) may go as high as 250 ppm.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Chloride (Cl)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Accentuates flavour by making a beer fuller bodied, rounder, and to appear sweeter. May taste salty above 250 ppm and will affect yeast health above 300 ppm. Typical brewing range is 0-250 ppm.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Sulfate (SO4)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Accentuates hop bitterness / dryness / crispness. May become astringent above 400 ppm. Typical brewing range is 50-350 ppm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding these minerals to our brewing water is unfortunately not as simple as buying a bottle of each and adding a pinch of this and a dash of that. Through the wonders of nature (we promised no chemistry here!) many of these minerals cannot safely exist on their own, in a stable form. Pure sodium (Na), for example, is a toxic metal that explodes if it comes in contact with water which would make for a very bad brew day. But combine sodium (Na) with chloride (Cl) and we create a stable salt, in this case regular table salt (NaCl). So when we add minerals to our water, we&#039;re usually forced to do so two at a time using readily available and stable salts. Adding salts also happens to affect pH, but more on that later.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The salts we use to adjust the mineral content of our water are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Gypsum / Calcium sulfate (CaSO4)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Ca and SO4, lowers pH.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Calcium chloride (CaCl2)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Ca and Cl, lowers pH.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Pure epsom salt / magnesium sulfate (MgSO4), unscented&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Mg and SO4, lowers pH (very slightly).&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Chalk / Calcium carbonate (CaCO3)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Ca, raises pH.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Baking soda (NaHCO3)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Na, raises pH.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Non-iodized salt (NaCl), also known as pickling salt / kosher salt / cheese salt&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Na and Cl, raises pH.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Out of these six salts, the first three are the ones we use the most. We will sometimes use chalk with dark beers where we want to increase Ca without affecting other minerals. We have yet to use baking soda or non-iodized salt after many years of brewing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== SO4-S vs SO4. ===&lt;br /&gt;
My water report has sulfate as SO4-S instead of SO4. Is that the same thing?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nope. You probably received a water report from Ward Labs who reports sulfate as SO4-S instead of of SO4. To convert to SO4 you need to multiply by 3. For example, if your water report indicates that you have 6 ppm of SO4-S, you have 18 ppm of SO4. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Residual Alkalinity ===&lt;br /&gt;
What about alkalinity / residual alkalinity? I read that it was really important in brewing!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;The short answer:&#039;&#039; Ignore it. While it&#039;s important, we don&#039;t deal with it directly when adjusting water to target specific flavour profiles.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;The long answer:&#039;&#039; Alkalinity refers to how effectively water is able to resist a change in pH, in other words, how well it is able to neutralize or &#039;buffer&#039; acids before the pH changes. The higher the alkalinity or &#039;buffering capacity&#039; of the water, the more acids or salts we need to add to lower the pH in order to achieve a proper mash pH. Most city water has a pH of 7.0 or higher but the pH range we want for our mash and finished beer is considerably lower. Hard water (water full of minerals such as Ca and Mg) is highly alkaline.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bru&#039;n Water Reddit talk ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A: Bru&#039;n Water consistently predicts lower pH for pale beers than real life&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
B: It’s been pretty much spot on for me across styles. I scale up from our 10gal pilot to 20bbl batches using it and it’s nearly linear. Usually just a minor adjustment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We add our chemicals at the beginning of mash in fwiw&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A: When mash-in was taking 30 minutes for 20bbl+ it seemed natural to add the chems in increments, but I can see why adding it all in the beginning also makes sense. I will give this a go for the next brew.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
C: Did you notice a difference doing this? We do the same as yourself, incrementally thinking that it spreads them through the process evenly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A: Yes. Adding them all up front got me within 0.05pH of target.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
C: Are you able to elaborate on why this is the case please?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
D: With Bru&#039;nWater, you&#039;re making the water before you brew with it. This is not like cooking where you are seasoning at every point along the way. There are pH buffering effects which will not be realized if you don&#039;t add all the salts and acid to the water up front as calculated, ideally before it even touches your malt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[category: Water]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Water&amp;diff=206</id>
		<title>Water</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Water&amp;diff=206"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:43:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Basics ==&lt;br /&gt;
The following minerals found naturally in water are the ones we adjust in brewing:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Calcium (Ca)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Essentially flavour neutral. Promotes clarity and flavour stability of the final beer. Affects enzymatic activity in the mash, protein coagulation during the boil and benefits yeast health. Typical brewing range is 50-150 ppm.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Magnesium (Mg)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds a sour, astringent flavour. An important yeast nutrient, required at a level of least 5 ppm. Levels above 125 ppm have a laxative effect (fun times).Typical brewing range is 5-40 ppm.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Sodium (Na)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Rounds out flavours and accentuates sweetness. Lower concentration tends to produce a cleaner flavour. May taste salty above 150 ppm and harsh / sour above 250 ppm. Typical brewing range is 0-50 ppm, but some special styles (like Gose) may go as high as 250 ppm.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Chloride (Cl)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Accentuates flavour by making a beer fuller bodied, rounder, and to appear sweeter. May taste salty above 250 ppm and will affect yeast health above 300 ppm. Typical brewing range is 0-250 ppm.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Sulfate (SO4)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Accentuates hop bitterness / dryness / crispness. May become astringent above 400 ppm. Typical brewing range is 50-350 ppm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adding these minerals to our brewing water is unfortunately not as simple as buying a bottle of each and adding a pinch of this and a dash of that. Through the wonders of nature (we promised no chemistry here!) many of these minerals cannot safely exist on their own, in a stable form. Pure sodium (Na), for example, is a toxic metal that explodes if it comes in contact with water which would make for a very bad brew day. But combine sodium (Na) with chloride (Cl) and we create a stable salt, in this case regular table salt (NaCl). So when we add minerals to our water, we&#039;re usually forced to do so two at a time using readily available and stable salts. Adding salts also happens to affect pH, but more on that later.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The salts we use to adjust the mineral content of our water are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Gypsum / Calcium sulfate (CaSO4)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Ca and SO4, lowers pH.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Calcium chloride (CaCl2)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Ca and Cl, lowers pH.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Pure epsom salt / magnesium sulfate (MgSO4), unscented&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Mg and SO4, lowers pH (very slightly).&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Chalk / Calcium carbonate (CaCO3)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Ca, raises pH.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Baking soda (NaHCO3)&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Na, raises pH.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;Non-iodized salt (NaCl), also known as pickling salt / kosher salt / cheese salt&#039;&#039;&#039;: Adds Na and Cl, raises pH.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Out of these six salts, the first three are the ones we use the most. We will sometimes use chalk with dark beers where we want to increase Ca without affecting other minerals. We have yet to use baking soda or non-iodized salt after many years of brewing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== My water report has sulfate as SO4-S instead of SO4. Is that the same thing? ===&lt;br /&gt;
Nope. You probably received a water report from Ward Labs who reports sulfate as SO4-S instead of of SO4. To convert to SO4 you need to multiply by 3. For example, if your water report indicates that you have 6 ppm of SO4-S, you have 18 ppm of SO4. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== What about alkalinity / residual alkalinity? I read that it was really important in brewing! ===&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;The short answer:&#039;&#039; Ignore it. While it&#039;s important, we don&#039;t deal with it directly when adjusting water to target specific flavour profiles.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;The long answer:&#039;&#039; Alkalinity refers to how effectively water is able to resist a change in pH, in other words, how well it is able to neutralize or &#039;buffer&#039; acids before the pH changes. The higher the alkalinity or &#039;buffering capacity&#039; of the water, the more acids or salts we need to add to lower the pH in order to achieve a proper mash pH. Most city water has a pH of 7.0 or higher but the pH range we want for our mash and finished beer is considerably lower. Hard water (water full of minerals such as Ca and Mg) is highly alkaline.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Bru&#039;n Water Reddit talk ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A: Bru&#039;n Water consistently predicts lower pH for pale beers than real life&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
B: It’s been pretty much spot on for me across styles. I scale up from our 10gal pilot to 20bbl batches using it and it’s nearly linear. Usually just a minor adjustment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We add our chemicals at the beginning of mash in fwiw&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A: When mash-in was taking 30 minutes for 20bbl+ it seemed natural to add the chems in increments, but I can see why adding it all in the beginning also makes sense. I will give this a go for the next brew.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
C: Did you notice a difference doing this? We do the same as yourself, incrementally thinking that it spreads them through the process evenly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A: Yes. Adding them all up front got me within 0.05pH of target.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
C: Are you able to elaborate on why this is the case please?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
D: With Bru&#039;nWater, you&#039;re making the water before you brew with it. This is not like cooking where you are seasoning at every point along the way. There are pH buffering effects which will not be realized if you don&#039;t add all the salts and acid to the water up front as calculated, ideally before it even touches your malt.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[category: Water]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Thiols&amp;diff=205</id>
		<title>Thiols</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Thiols&amp;diff=205"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:42:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Hops and Thiols ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Citra and Hallertau Blanc&#039;&#039;&#039; have the highest odour unit of free 3SHA  (Fermentis seminar)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Thiol_in_Hops_Chart.png|frameless|900x900px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Thiols ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Nerol&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A monoterpene alcohol with a rose and citrus aroma. An isomer of geraniol. Not usually detectable by YCH analysis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;β-citronellol&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A monoterpene alcohol with an aroma similar to citronella candles. Not thought to be found in hops, but has been detected in beer. It is believed that this compound is produced by metabolism of geraniol by yeast during fermentation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;SULFUR-CONTAINING COMPOUNDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sulfur compounds represent an increasingly important area of study in hop aroma science. They are difficult to detect using a traditional GC-MS and are usually found in extremely small concentrations in hops, potentially two orders of magnitude less than terpenes (ASBC). However, the human nose is excellent at detecting sulfur compounds. An example: the aroma threshold for myrcene is about 20ppb, while 4MMP (a common sulfur compound found in hops) is detectable at around 0.05ppb, or about 400 times less (ASBC)! Sulfur-containing compounds are now thought to be an integral part of the aroma profile of a beer, incentivizing brewers to harness their power in the brewing process. Common confusion surrounds the prefixes mercapto and sulfanyl, which are generally interchangeable. Using mercapto- is not now suggested by the IUPAC. However, much of previously completed research on sulfur-containing compounds use the mercapto- prefix, along with much of modern brewer parlance. In the following descriptions, the sulfanyl- prefix will be used in text, but the mercapto- abbreviation will also be listed.&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Polyfunctional Thiol or Thiol&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Polyfunctional Thiol or Thiol&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In chemistry, a blanket term for an organic compound containing a sulfhydryl functional group(-SH). In the brewing world, it is a broad term covering a group of compounds, often contributing positive beer flavor and aroma.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;4-methyl-4-sulfanylpentan-2one (4MSP or 4MMP)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A polyfunctional thiol, and one of the better-known sulfur compounds in the brewing world. Research suggests that 4MSP is not present in European varieties (Kishimoto, Morimoto, Kobayashi,Yako, &amp;amp; Wanikawa, 2008). 4MSP is usually described as having a blackcurrant aroma. At higher concentrations the aroma can become unpleasant, expressing as a “catty” or cat-urine-like.&lt;br /&gt;
* Interestingly, the threshold at which 4MSP becomes unpleasant varies substantially among individuals, similar to the flavor perception of cilantro. When dissolved in a beer matrix, it is thought to add tropical and wine grape-like flavors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3-sulfanylhexan-1-ol (3SH or 3MH)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A polyfunctional thiol commonly found in hops. It has a tropical and grapefruit aroma. 3SH can be converted by yeast into 3SHA (3MHA).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3-sulfanylhexyl acetate (3SHA or 3MHA)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* This compound is found readily in hoppy beers, but not usually found in hops (Kishimoto, Morimoto, Kobayashi, Yako, &amp;amp; Wanikawa, 2008) . Like its relative 3SH, it has a grapefruit and tropical aroma. When present in high concentrations it can provide a passionfruit flavor. Whirlpool and activefermentation dry hopping additions containing varieties high in 3SH are thought to maximize the potential for 3SHA by maximizing contact time between hop compounds and actively fermenting yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3-sulfanyl-4-methylpentyl acetate (3S4MPA or 3M4MPA)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A polyfunctional thiol with a rhubarb and grapefruit aroma. In a study by Takoi Et al. on Sauvignon Blanc wines, it was concluded that 3S4MP and 3S4MPA worked synergistically to enhance flavor (Takoi, et al., 2009).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;3-sulfanyl-4-methylpentan-1-ol (3S4MP or 3M4MP)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A polyfunctional thiol with an aroma of rhubarb and grapefruit. It has an extremely low odor threshold of 0.07ppb. Like 3SHA, its concentration increases during fermentation (ASBC).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;ESTERS AND KETONES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2-methylbutyl isobutyrate&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* An ester derived from hops which typically survives the brewing process. Like most esters, it lends a fruity aroma, specifically apricot.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2-nonanone&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A ketone with a variety of different aromas. It can range from sweet and fruity to cheesy, buttery, and waxy.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Methyl geranate&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* A methyl ester derived from hops which typically survives the brewing process into finished beer. It lends a fruity and floral aroma and is usually the only hop-derived methyl ester that survives into beer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Butanoic acid 3-methylbutyl ester&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* An ester derived from hops which typically survives the brewing process. It lends a fruity, sweet, and tropical aroma.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Averado and Berkley yeast tests ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Thiol Test Recipes ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cold Pressed Hazy IPA ====&lt;br /&gt;
* 2-Row Malt for Base, 25% malted wheat &amp;amp; oats make up the grist.&lt;br /&gt;
* Mash Hopping with High Precursor Motueka Lot from Freestyle Hops, just 0.25 lbs / bbl.&lt;br /&gt;
* Whirlpool at 175, 0.75 lbs / bbl same Motueka lot.&lt;br /&gt;
* Ferment with Tropics yeast at 68 deg.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry Hop 2.75 lbs / bbl with 40% HBC 586, 40% El Dorado, 20% Sabro Cryo.&lt;br /&gt;
* Centrifuged to less than 200 EBC&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA ====&lt;br /&gt;
* 2-Row Malt for Base, 25% all wheat, incl. high protein red wheat from Mecca Grade.  Mash Hopping with US Cascade Hops&lt;br /&gt;
* Whirlpool at 175, 2 Kg of Idaho 7 Full Spectrum Plasma &amp;amp; 0.5 lbs. / bbl Simcoe&lt;br /&gt;
* Ferment with Tropics yeast at 68 deg.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry Hop 5 lbs / bbl with blend of Mosaic, Citra Cryo, Waimea &amp;amp; Nelson hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Takeaways – Brewing Process&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; ===&lt;br /&gt;
* High-Precursor hops in Mash &amp;amp; Whirlpool (cooled to 175)&lt;br /&gt;
* Thiol Yeast for Fermentation (Tropics used in these examples).&lt;br /&gt;
* Moderate Dry Hop seems to prevent decrease of 3MH, although difference between 2.75 and 5 lbs was 2,000 ng/L – moderately perceptible. More efficiency with raw materials&lt;br /&gt;
* Comparing with Berkeley’s lab trials (unhopped): these beers were tested after packaging (3-4 weeks old), vs. Fresh and in the lab. Likely higher at packaging.&lt;br /&gt;
* At what point is the thiol threshold so far beyond perception that there’s little difference between x and y? (i.e. the “100 IBU” fatigue example). Odor Activity Values!&lt;br /&gt;
* Vengeful Barbarian shows importance / reliance of monoterpene alcohols to generate hop flavor. Thiols just part of the story.&lt;br /&gt;
* We know we’re going to get a TON of 3MH concentration from using thiol releasing yeast, focus on good hops to do the rest of the work.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Incorporating Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpenes in Recipes&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Results from VB show us that Thiols are only part of the story. Must take into account:&lt;br /&gt;
* Presence of Monoterpene Alcohols: Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol&lt;br /&gt;
* Ester compounds found in hops like 2MIB&lt;br /&gt;
* Knowing Free Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpene Alcohol Concentrations, a brewer can extrapolate when planning dry hops.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 Nelson hops / bbl = 1300 ng/L of potential 3S4MP if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 Sabro Cryo hops / bbl = 497.84 ppm of potential Geraniol if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* Thinking about how much ”special sauce” could be going into your DH, rather than a blind lbs / bbl benchmark.&lt;br /&gt;
* Establish Odor Activity Values for various compounds, then determine how to get there with hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Trials with Thiol Yeast ==&lt;br /&gt;
Brewed a series of 5 bbl pilot batches to understand implications of bound thiols. First renditions to determine on sensory level the contribution of precursors from grain and minimal hopping. Amazing aromatic properties but unbalanced, “hollow” profile and unstable haze.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tried a regular Hazy IPA recipe, not what we expected. Thiols took a back seat in the aroma, dry hop dominated &amp;amp; had a scrubbing effect. Complex flavor profile, could pick up the thiols on the palate. How do we front load wort with Thiol Precursors from hop products?  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Thiols.png|frameless|990x990px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Lager Yeast and Thiols ==&lt;br /&gt;
Malt and Hop as Sources of Thiol S Conjugates: Thiol-Releasing Property of Lager Yeast during Fermentation[[File:Lager thiol.png|left|frameless|373x373px]]&lt;br /&gt;
ABSTRACT: The contribution of polyfunctional thiols (PFTs) to the overall flavor of a lager beer has been well documented, but their origin remains unclear. In comparison with Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains previously investigated (same conditions: 7 days at 24 °C, 3 days at 4 °C), we examined how Saccharomyces pastorianus yeasts are able to produce these PFTs from cysteinylated (Cys-) and glutathionylated (G-) conjugates. Up to 0.35% release was observed from G-conjugates against less than 0.08% for all yeasts studied so far. Lowering the wort nitrogen level and the fermentation temperature (12 °C) strongly increased the release efficiency and the ester/alcohol ratio from Cys-conjugates. However, it did not improve the release from G-conjugates and even prevented the yeast from producing any acetate. Although poor in free PFTs and their Cys-precursors, both Saaz hop and pale malt (classical ingredients for premium lager beers) confirmed to be significant sources of G-conjugates (especially those of 3-sulfanylhexanol and 3-sulfanyl-4-methylpentanol). …….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Yeasts. Four lager yeast strains (BRAS37, BRAS25, BRAS51a, and BRAS45; propagation in YPS liquid media at 28 °C) from the INBR UCLouvain collection (Louvain-la-Neuve, Belgium) and three active dry yeasts (SafLager S-23, SafLager W34-70, and SafLager S-189; hereinafter referred to as S23, W3470, and S189) from Fermentis Lesaffre (Marcq-en-Barœul, France) were used for fermentation trials …&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After 7 days at 24 °C and additional 3 days at 4 °C, SafAle K-97 yeast reached the highest release efficiencies (up to 0.45 and 0.08% release from Cys- and Gconjugates, respectively). Significant differences were observed between yeast strains, especially in terms of the acetate ratio [released acetate/released (alcohol + acetate), varying from 0 to 80%]. This ratio was also greatly affected by wort density (higher esterification at 17 °Plato than at 15 and 12 °Plato).23 As for the nitrogen level of wort, known to greatly affect the ability of yeasts to release thiols in the oenological process (nitrogen catabolite repression of the gene for β-lyase Irc7p), the influence of this parameter has not been assessed under brewing conditions ….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ability of Lager Yeasts to Release Thiols from SGlutathionylated Conjugates. Depending on the thiol nature, up to five of the lager yeasts (S23, W3470, BRAS25, BRAS51a, and BRAS45) were found to release free thiols from glutathionylated conjugates even more efficiently than SafAle K-97 (up to 0.36%)23 (Figure 2d−f). Surprisingly, no correlation emerged between the release from Cys-conjugates and the release from G-conjugates (e.g., S23 acted the most efficiently on Cys-conjugates and BRAS45 on G-conjugates). Yeasts BRAS37 and BRAS45 even exhibited a higher release efficiency with G-conjugates than with Cys-conjugates (also the case of BRAS25 for 3SPol conjugates). Yeast BRAS45 definitely stood out from the others, with release efficiencies reaching 0.36% for 3SPol + 3SPA, 0.23% for 3S4MPol + 3S4MPA, and 0.20% for 3SHol + 3SHA. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BRAS37, BRAS25, and BRAS45 showed a preference for 3SPol release; S23, W3470, and S189 for 3S4MPol release; and BRAS51a for 3SHol release. While some yeasts released these three thiols with similar efficiency, others exhibited a strong preference for one structure (e.g., BRAS25 released 0.34% 3SPol but less than 0.05% 3S4MPol and 3SHol) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
……&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Because the fermentation temperature for lager beers is usually around 10−15 °C, trials at 24 °C (see above) were compared with the ones at 12 °C. As illustrated in Figure 3a−c, lowering the fermentation temperature significantly improved (up to sixfold) the release from Cys-conjugates. Although acetate ratios were lower for 3S4MPA and 3SHA at 12 °C (Table 1), absolute acetate levels were much higher. The results for G-conjugates were quite different (Figure 3d−f): lowering the fermentation temperature to 12 °C caused only a slight (1.5-fold) increase in 3SPol and 3SHol concentrations, and no trace of the corresponding sulfanylalkyl acetates was detected. At 24 °C, release from G-conjugates was up to eightfold higher than from Cys-conjugates, whereas at 12 °C, release efficiencies for Cys- and G-conjugates were similar &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
…… &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Complex Case of Thiols ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;https://beerandbrewing.com/the-complex-case-of-thiols/&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4-mercapto-4-methylpentant-2-one (4MMP), smells and tastes of box tree, black currant, and ribes. It is also known as 4-methyl-4-sulfanylpentan-2-one (4MSP). Another, 3-mercaptohexan-1-ol (3MH), is often described as exotic, smelling of rhubarb and citrus. And the third, 3-mercaptohexyl acetate (3MHA), is reminiscent of passion fruit and guava. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
…..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As reported in “Hops Oils &amp;amp; Aroma: Uncharted Waters” (Craft Beer &amp;amp; Brewing Magazine®, March/April 2016), a team at Sapporo Breweries in Japan conducted a study in 2012 in which they compared the compositions of monoterpene alcohols in various hops, examining the behavior of geraniol and citronellol under various hopping and hops-blend conditions. Among other things, their experiments demonstrated that the co-existence of linalool, geraniol, and citronellol could increase the perception of “citrus” in a model solution. Anecdotally, using this information, adventurous brewers combined hops high in linalool (such as Bravo or Nugget) with others rich in geraniol (for instance, Chinook) to brew beers they described as fruity, sometimes tropical. But it turns out linalool, geraniol, and citronellol may not have been totally responsible for those flavors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Following additional research, the team from Sapporo has a new hypothesis. In their experiments, sensory panelists rated various aroma attributes of a solution dosed with 4MMP, scoring it two (out of four) for “tropical.” Similarly, a solution dosed with a mixture of linalool, geraniol, and citronellol scored less than two for tropical. However, when all four were blended, the tropical score jumped to a full four. (That may be what happens when brewers use Chinook because not only is it geraniol-rich, it also contains 4MMP.) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Malts ==&lt;br /&gt;
Escarpment found that with their Thiol Libre yeast if you use pilsner malt, especially N.American pilsner, it can have an unpleasant ester. Also when ferm temps get above 22 it becomes Belgiany  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Thiols and Oxidation ==&lt;br /&gt;
The team at Deschutes Brewery ran a shelf life study using dry-hopped Thiolized beer in an effort to discover whether the presence of thiols had any impact on the perception of oxidation, hop flavor, and fruit flavor. What they found was that when compared to a fresh sample, dry-hopped Thiolized beer maintained its stability after two months. It decreased in sulfur character after 0 – 1 month (from BBT to 1month-old cans). It increased in fruit scoring from 0 – 2 months (from BBT to 2month-old cans).  &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Deschutes Thiol Test.png|center|thumb|900x900px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Thiols&amp;diff=204</id>
		<title>Thiols</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Thiols&amp;diff=204"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:42:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
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&lt;div&gt;__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
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== Hops and Thiols ==&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Citra and Hallertau Blanc&#039;&#039;&#039; have the highest odour unit of free 3SHA  (Fermentis seminar)&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Thiol_in_Hops_Chart.png|frameless|900x900px]]&lt;br /&gt;
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== Thiols ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Nerol&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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* A monoterpene alcohol with a rose and citrus aroma. An isomer of geraniol. Not usually detectable by YCH analysis.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;β-citronellol&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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* A monoterpene alcohol with an aroma similar to citronella candles. Not thought to be found in hops, but has been detected in beer. It is believed that this compound is produced by metabolism of geraniol by yeast during fermentation.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;SULFUR-CONTAINING COMPOUNDS&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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Sulfur compounds represent an increasingly important area of study in hop aroma science. They are difficult to detect using a traditional GC-MS and are usually found in extremely small concentrations in hops, potentially two orders of magnitude less than terpenes (ASBC). However, the human nose is excellent at detecting sulfur compounds. An example: the aroma threshold for myrcene is about 20ppb, while 4MMP (a common sulfur compound found in hops) is detectable at around 0.05ppb, or about 400 times less (ASBC)! Sulfur-containing compounds are now thought to be an integral part of the aroma profile of a beer, incentivizing brewers to harness their power in the brewing process. Common confusion surrounds the prefixes mercapto and sulfanyl, which are generally interchangeable. Using mercapto- is not now suggested by the IUPAC. However, much of previously completed research on sulfur-containing compounds use the mercapto- prefix, along with much of modern brewer parlance. In the following descriptions, the sulfanyl- prefix will be used in text, but the mercapto- abbreviation will also be listed.&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Polyfunctional Thiol or Thiol&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Polyfunctional Thiol or Thiol&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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In chemistry, a blanket term for an organic compound containing a sulfhydryl functional group(-SH). In the brewing world, it is a broad term covering a group of compounds, often contributing positive beer flavor and aroma.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;4-methyl-4-sulfanylpentan-2one (4MSP or 4MMP)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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* A polyfunctional thiol, and one of the better-known sulfur compounds in the brewing world. Research suggests that 4MSP is not present in European varieties (Kishimoto, Morimoto, Kobayashi,Yako, &amp;amp; Wanikawa, 2008). 4MSP is usually described as having a blackcurrant aroma. At higher concentrations the aroma can become unpleasant, expressing as a “catty” or cat-urine-like.&lt;br /&gt;
* Interestingly, the threshold at which 4MSP becomes unpleasant varies substantially among individuals, similar to the flavor perception of cilantro. When dissolved in a beer matrix, it is thought to add tropical and wine grape-like flavors.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;3-sulfanylhexan-1-ol (3SH or 3MH)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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* A polyfunctional thiol commonly found in hops. It has a tropical and grapefruit aroma. 3SH can be converted by yeast into 3SHA (3MHA).&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;3-sulfanylhexyl acetate (3SHA or 3MHA)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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* This compound is found readily in hoppy beers, but not usually found in hops (Kishimoto, Morimoto, Kobayashi, Yako, &amp;amp; Wanikawa, 2008) . Like its relative 3SH, it has a grapefruit and tropical aroma. When present in high concentrations it can provide a passionfruit flavor. Whirlpool and activefermentation dry hopping additions containing varieties high in 3SH are thought to maximize the potential for 3SHA by maximizing contact time between hop compounds and actively fermenting yeast.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;3-sulfanyl-4-methylpentyl acetate (3S4MPA or 3M4MPA)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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* A polyfunctional thiol with a rhubarb and grapefruit aroma. In a study by Takoi Et al. on Sauvignon Blanc wines, it was concluded that 3S4MP and 3S4MPA worked synergistically to enhance flavor (Takoi, et al., 2009).&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;3-sulfanyl-4-methylpentan-1-ol (3S4MP or 3M4MP)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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* A polyfunctional thiol with an aroma of rhubarb and grapefruit. It has an extremely low odor threshold of 0.07ppb. Like 3SHA, its concentration increases during fermentation (ASBC).&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;ESTERS AND KETONES&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;2-methylbutyl isobutyrate&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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* An ester derived from hops which typically survives the brewing process. Like most esters, it lends a fruity aroma, specifically apricot.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;2-nonanone&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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* A ketone with a variety of different aromas. It can range from sweet and fruity to cheesy, buttery, and waxy.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Methyl geranate&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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* A methyl ester derived from hops which typically survives the brewing process into finished beer. It lends a fruity and floral aroma and is usually the only hop-derived methyl ester that survives into beer.&lt;br /&gt;
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&#039;&#039;&#039;Butanoic acid 3-methylbutyl ester&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
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* An ester derived from hops which typically survives the brewing process. It lends a fruity, sweet, and tropical aroma.&lt;br /&gt;
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== Averado and Berkley yeast tests ==&lt;br /&gt;
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=== Thiol Test Recipes ===&lt;br /&gt;
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==== &#039;&#039;&#039;Cold Pressed Hazy IPA&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
* 2-Row Malt for Base, 25% malted wheat &amp;amp; oats make up the grist.&lt;br /&gt;
* Mash Hopping with High Precursor Motueka Lot from Freestyle Hops, just 0.25 lbs / bbl.&lt;br /&gt;
* Whirlpool at 175, 0.75 lbs / bbl same Motueka lot.&lt;br /&gt;
* Ferment with Tropics yeast at 68 deg.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry Hop 2.75 lbs / bbl with 40% HBC 586, 40% El Dorado, 20% Sabro Cryo.&lt;br /&gt;
* Centrifuged to less than 200 EBC&lt;br /&gt;
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==== &#039;&#039;&#039;Contains No Juice Hazy IIPA&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
* 2-Row Malt for Base, 25% all wheat, incl. high protein red wheat from Mecca Grade.  Mash Hopping with US Cascade Hops&lt;br /&gt;
* Whirlpool at 175, 2 Kg of Idaho 7 Full Spectrum Plasma &amp;amp; 0.5 lbs. / bbl Simcoe&lt;br /&gt;
* Ferment with Tropics yeast at 68 deg.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dry Hop 5 lbs / bbl with blend of Mosaic, Citra Cryo, Waimea &amp;amp; Nelson hops.&lt;br /&gt;
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=== &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Takeaways – Brewing Process&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; ===&lt;br /&gt;
* High-Precursor hops in Mash &amp;amp; Whirlpool (cooled to 175)&lt;br /&gt;
* Thiol Yeast for Fermentation (Tropics used in these examples).&lt;br /&gt;
* Moderate Dry Hop seems to prevent decrease of 3MH, although difference between 2.75 and 5 lbs was 2,000 ng/L – moderately perceptible. More efficiency with raw materials&lt;br /&gt;
* Comparing with Berkeley’s lab trials (unhopped): these beers were tested after packaging (3-4 weeks old), vs. Fresh and in the lab. Likely higher at packaging.&lt;br /&gt;
* At what point is the thiol threshold so far beyond perception that there’s little difference between x and y? (i.e. the “100 IBU” fatigue example). Odor Activity Values!&lt;br /&gt;
* Vengeful Barbarian shows importance / reliance of monoterpene alcohols to generate hop flavor. Thiols just part of the story.&lt;br /&gt;
* We know we’re going to get a TON of 3MH concentration from using thiol releasing yeast, focus on good hops to do the rest of the work.&lt;br /&gt;
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=== &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Incorporating Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpenes in Recipes&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; ===&lt;br /&gt;
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* Results from VB show us that Thiols are only part of the story. Must take into account:&lt;br /&gt;
* Presence of Monoterpene Alcohols: Geraniol, Linalool, Citronellol&lt;br /&gt;
* Ester compounds found in hops like 2MIB&lt;br /&gt;
* Knowing Free Thiols &amp;amp; Monoterpene Alcohol Concentrations, a brewer can extrapolate when planning dry hops.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 Nelson hops / bbl = 1300 ng/L of potential 3S4MP if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* 1 Kg T90 Sabro Cryo hops / bbl = 497.84 ppm of potential Geraniol if 100% extraction occurs.&lt;br /&gt;
* Thinking about how much ”special sauce” could be going into your DH, rather than a blind lbs / bbl benchmark.&lt;br /&gt;
* Establish Odor Activity Values for various compounds, then determine how to get there with hops.&lt;br /&gt;
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== Trials with Thiol Yeast ==&lt;br /&gt;
Brewed a series of 5 bbl pilot batches to understand implications of bound thiols. First renditions to determine on sensory level the contribution of precursors from grain and minimal hopping. Amazing aromatic properties but unbalanced, “hollow” profile and unstable haze.&lt;br /&gt;
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Tried a regular Hazy IPA recipe, not what we expected. Thiols took a back seat in the aroma, dry hop dominated &amp;amp; had a scrubbing effect. Complex flavor profile, could pick up the thiols on the palate. How do we front load wort with Thiol Precursors from hop products?  &lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Thiols.png|frameless|990x990px]]&lt;br /&gt;
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== Lager Yeast and Thiols ==&lt;br /&gt;
Malt and Hop as Sources of Thiol S Conjugates: Thiol-Releasing Property of Lager Yeast during Fermentation[[File:Lager thiol.png|left|frameless|373x373px]]&lt;br /&gt;
ABSTRACT: The contribution of polyfunctional thiols (PFTs) to the overall flavor of a lager beer has been well documented, but their origin remains unclear. In comparison with Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains previously investigated (same conditions: 7 days at 24 °C, 3 days at 4 °C), we examined how Saccharomyces pastorianus yeasts are able to produce these PFTs from cysteinylated (Cys-) and glutathionylated (G-) conjugates. Up to 0.35% release was observed from G-conjugates against less than 0.08% for all yeasts studied so far. Lowering the wort nitrogen level and the fermentation temperature (12 °C) strongly increased the release efficiency and the ester/alcohol ratio from Cys-conjugates. However, it did not improve the release from G-conjugates and even prevented the yeast from producing any acetate. Although poor in free PFTs and their Cys-precursors, both Saaz hop and pale malt (classical ingredients for premium lager beers) confirmed to be significant sources of G-conjugates (especially those of 3-sulfanylhexanol and 3-sulfanyl-4-methylpentanol). …….&lt;br /&gt;
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Yeasts. Four lager yeast strains (BRAS37, BRAS25, BRAS51a, and BRAS45; propagation in YPS liquid media at 28 °C) from the INBR UCLouvain collection (Louvain-la-Neuve, Belgium) and three active dry yeasts (SafLager S-23, SafLager W34-70, and SafLager S-189; hereinafter referred to as S23, W3470, and S189) from Fermentis Lesaffre (Marcq-en-Barœul, France) were used for fermentation trials …&lt;br /&gt;
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After 7 days at 24 °C and additional 3 days at 4 °C, SafAle K-97 yeast reached the highest release efficiencies (up to 0.45 and 0.08% release from Cys- and Gconjugates, respectively). Significant differences were observed between yeast strains, especially in terms of the acetate ratio [released acetate/released (alcohol + acetate), varying from 0 to 80%]. This ratio was also greatly affected by wort density (higher esterification at 17 °Plato than at 15 and 12 °Plato).23 As for the nitrogen level of wort, known to greatly affect the ability of yeasts to release thiols in the oenological process (nitrogen catabolite repression of the gene for β-lyase Irc7p), the influence of this parameter has not been assessed under brewing conditions ….&lt;br /&gt;
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Ability of Lager Yeasts to Release Thiols from SGlutathionylated Conjugates. Depending on the thiol nature, up to five of the lager yeasts (S23, W3470, BRAS25, BRAS51a, and BRAS45) were found to release free thiols from glutathionylated conjugates even more efficiently than SafAle K-97 (up to 0.36%)23 (Figure 2d−f). Surprisingly, no correlation emerged between the release from Cys-conjugates and the release from G-conjugates (e.g., S23 acted the most efficiently on Cys-conjugates and BRAS45 on G-conjugates). Yeasts BRAS37 and BRAS45 even exhibited a higher release efficiency with G-conjugates than with Cys-conjugates (also the case of BRAS25 for 3SPol conjugates). Yeast BRAS45 definitely stood out from the others, with release efficiencies reaching 0.36% for 3SPol + 3SPA, 0.23% for 3S4MPol + 3S4MPA, and 0.20% for 3SHol + 3SHA. &lt;br /&gt;
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BRAS37, BRAS25, and BRAS45 showed a preference for 3SPol release; S23, W3470, and S189 for 3S4MPol release; and BRAS51a for 3SHol release. While some yeasts released these three thiols with similar efficiency, others exhibited a strong preference for one structure (e.g., BRAS25 released 0.34% 3SPol but less than 0.05% 3S4MPol and 3SHol) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
……&lt;br /&gt;
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Because the fermentation temperature for lager beers is usually around 10−15 °C, trials at 24 °C (see above) were compared with the ones at 12 °C. As illustrated in Figure 3a−c, lowering the fermentation temperature significantly improved (up to sixfold) the release from Cys-conjugates. Although acetate ratios were lower for 3S4MPA and 3SHA at 12 °C (Table 1), absolute acetate levels were much higher. The results for G-conjugates were quite different (Figure 3d−f): lowering the fermentation temperature to 12 °C caused only a slight (1.5-fold) increase in 3SPol and 3SHol concentrations, and no trace of the corresponding sulfanylalkyl acetates was detected. At 24 °C, release from G-conjugates was up to eightfold higher than from Cys-conjugates, whereas at 12 °C, release efficiencies for Cys- and G-conjugates were similar &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
…… &lt;br /&gt;
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== The Complex Case of Thiols ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;https://beerandbrewing.com/the-complex-case-of-thiols/&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
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4-mercapto-4-methylpentant-2-one (4MMP), smells and tastes of box tree, black currant, and ribes. It is also known as 4-methyl-4-sulfanylpentan-2-one (4MSP). Another, 3-mercaptohexan-1-ol (3MH), is often described as exotic, smelling of rhubarb and citrus. And the third, 3-mercaptohexyl acetate (3MHA), is reminiscent of passion fruit and guava. &lt;br /&gt;
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…..&lt;br /&gt;
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As reported in “Hops Oils &amp;amp; Aroma: Uncharted Waters” (Craft Beer &amp;amp; Brewing Magazine®, March/April 2016), a team at Sapporo Breweries in Japan conducted a study in 2012 in which they compared the compositions of monoterpene alcohols in various hops, examining the behavior of geraniol and citronellol under various hopping and hops-blend conditions. Among other things, their experiments demonstrated that the co-existence of linalool, geraniol, and citronellol could increase the perception of “citrus” in a model solution. Anecdotally, using this information, adventurous brewers combined hops high in linalool (such as Bravo or Nugget) with others rich in geraniol (for instance, Chinook) to brew beers they described as fruity, sometimes tropical. But it turns out linalool, geraniol, and citronellol may not have been totally responsible for those flavors.&lt;br /&gt;
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Following additional research, the team from Sapporo has a new hypothesis. In their experiments, sensory panelists rated various aroma attributes of a solution dosed with 4MMP, scoring it two (out of four) for “tropical.” Similarly, a solution dosed with a mixture of linalool, geraniol, and citronellol scored less than two for tropical. However, when all four were blended, the tropical score jumped to a full four. (That may be what happens when brewers use Chinook because not only is it geraniol-rich, it also contains 4MMP.) &lt;br /&gt;
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== Malts ==&lt;br /&gt;
Escarpment found that with their Thiol Libre yeast if you use pilsner malt, especially N.American pilsner, it can have an unpleasant ester. Also when ferm temps get above 22 it becomes Belgiany  &lt;br /&gt;
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== Thiols and Oxidation ==&lt;br /&gt;
The team at Deschutes Brewery ran a shelf life study using dry-hopped Thiolized beer in an effort to discover whether the presence of thiols had any impact on the perception of oxidation, hop flavor, and fruit flavor. What they found was that when compared to a fresh sample, dry-hopped Thiolized beer maintained its stability after two months. It decreased in sulfur character after 0 – 1 month (from BBT to 1month-old cans). It increased in fruit scoring from 0 – 2 months (from BBT to 2month-old cans).  &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Deschutes Thiol Test.png|center|thumb|900x900px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
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[[Category:Hops]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Terpene&amp;diff=203</id>
		<title>Terpene</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Terpene&amp;diff=203"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:40:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== CBB 420 ==&lt;br /&gt;
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=== Highland Park – Use of Terpenes (Brew Gas) ===&lt;br /&gt;
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* Uses &#039;&#039;&#039;brew gas&#039;&#039;&#039; in hop water at &#039;&#039;&#039;~7 grams per barrel&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* Described as &#039;&#039;&#039;just a small touch&#039;&#039;&#039;—adds subtle complexity.&lt;br /&gt;
* You &#039;&#039;&#039;can’t really pick it out&#039;&#039;&#039;, but it enhances the overall profile.&lt;br /&gt;
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=== Terpene Types Used ===&lt;br /&gt;
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* &#039;&#039;&#039;Pineapple Express&#039;&#039;&#039;: Very &#039;&#039;&#039;tropical and fruity&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* &#039;&#039;&#039;King Louie&#039;&#039;&#039;: Very &#039;&#039;&#039;weed-like&#039;&#039;&#039;, &#039;&#039;&#039;dank&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
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=== Timing of Terpene Addition ===&lt;br /&gt;
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* &#039;&#039;&#039;Highland Park and Abstracts&#039;&#039;&#039; both said it’s &#039;&#039;&#039;best after a week&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* Highland Park &#039;&#039;&#039;used to add it after carbonation&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* Now they add it &#039;&#039;&#039;earlier&#039;&#039;&#039;, even &#039;&#039;&#039;before dry hopping&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Sours&amp;diff=202</id>
		<title>Sours</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Sours&amp;diff=202"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:40:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Sourvisiae Blending ==&lt;br /&gt;
Reddit:  I have read using Sourvisiae on its own ends up producing too much lactic acid and heard pitching a small amount of traditional sacc. helps control the lactic acid production. If anyone has experience with how much traditional yeast to Sourvisiae I should be pitching. Saw a post a while back mention that Lallemand has a chart to assist but haven’t been able to get a response yet. It will be an amber base at about 14 Plato. Thanks for any help in advance! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
u/Oregonbrewer - We would do a 50/50 blend of SV and US-05 for fruited sour bases. Pitch 05 24 hours after the SV, pH would stop around 3.35-3.4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
….&lt;br /&gt;
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Anecdotally we started cutting it at 10% by weight with 05. It still finished low 3.2pH. We’re up to about 20% and finishing low-mid 3.3’s. Our base finishes pretty dry, and I like it a little more aggressively sour (depending on the fruit) so this works for me. YMMV &lt;br /&gt;
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== Storing Lacto ==&lt;br /&gt;
Probrewer forum: We have a culture we bought a year ago still going. For 9 bbls in the kettle we pitch 3 to 5 gallons depending on how much we want to drop the ph. We&#039;re seeing a drop to a ph of 3.25 to 3.5 overnight. We harvest off the bottom of the kettle into a corny keg. It sits for a month in the walkin between kettle sours routinely. We haven&#039;t noticed any drift yet. We do not feed it or decant. We do give it a good shake before pitching and always purge the vessel be4 and after harvest. Also a flow meter hooked up to a co2 line works wonders for trickling co2 into the kettle overnight. Lastly, when cooling down the wort before pitching we started running co2 through our oxygen stone.&lt;br /&gt;
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I attach a short sanitized hose from the dump valve on the kettle into a purged corny keg once we reach our desired ph. I just put the hose right in the top of the corny and fill from the bottom. Dump a little off before collecting to make sure you are harvesting what was in the kettle and not what was in the piping. Purge a few more times after putting the lid on and store. &lt;br /&gt;
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== Helveticus ==&lt;br /&gt;
Herbe Yogurt uses Helveticus bacteria&lt;br /&gt;
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== Philly Sour Co-Pitch ==&lt;br /&gt;
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[[File:Philly sour.png|702x702px]]&lt;br /&gt;
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[[Category:Sour]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Sours&amp;diff=201</id>
		<title>Sours</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Sours&amp;diff=201"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:39:52Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;Sourvisiae&#039;&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&#039;Blending&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
Reddit:  I have read using Sourvisiae on its own ends up producing too much lactic acid and heard pitching a small amount of traditional sacc. helps control the lactic acid production. If anyone has experience with how much traditional yeast to Sourvisiae I should be pitching. Saw a post a while back mention that Lallemand has a chart to assist but haven’t been able to get a response yet. It will be an amber base at about 14 Plato. Thanks for any help in advance! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
u/Oregonbrewer - We would do a 50/50 blend of SV and US-05 for fruited sour bases. Pitch 05 24 hours after the SV, pH would stop around 3.35-3.4&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anecdotally we started cutting it at 10% by weight with 05. It still finished low 3.2pH. We’re up to about 20% and finishing low-mid 3.3’s. Our base finishes pretty dry, and I like it a little more aggressively sour (depending on the fruit) so this works for me. YMMV &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Storing Lacto ==&lt;br /&gt;
Probrewer forum: We have a culture we bought a year ago still going. For 9 bbls in the kettle we pitch 3 to 5 gallons depending on how much we want to drop the ph. We&#039;re seeing a drop to a ph of 3.25 to 3.5 overnight. We harvest off the bottom of the kettle into a corny keg. It sits for a month in the walkin between kettle sours routinely. We haven&#039;t noticed any drift yet. We do not feed it or decant. We do give it a good shake before pitching and always purge the vessel be4 and after harvest. Also a flow meter hooked up to a co2 line works wonders for trickling co2 into the kettle overnight. Lastly, when cooling down the wort before pitching we started running co2 through our oxygen stone.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I attach a short sanitized hose from the dump valve on the kettle into a purged corny keg once we reach our desired ph. I just put the hose right in the top of the corny and fill from the bottom. Dump a little off before collecting to make sure you are harvesting what was in the kettle and not what was in the piping. Purge a few more times after putting the lid on and store. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Helveticus ==&lt;br /&gt;
Herbe Yogurt uses Helveticus bacteria&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Philly Sour Co-Pitch ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Philly sour.png|702x702px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Sour]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Process&amp;diff=200</id>
		<title>Process</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Process&amp;diff=200"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:39:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Reducing Process Time (Cellar) ==&lt;br /&gt;
Here is my tried and true method for 14-day turnarounds (sometimes way less!) for everything except lagers:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;nowiki/&amp;gt;*Source: I am a former Senior Brewer, former Head of Cellar and former Sr NPD at BrewDog, former Director of Production and Operations at Magic Rock Brewing, current Director of Technical Solutions at YCH Hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== (Day 1) Wort nutrition and YEAST HEALTH ===&lt;br /&gt;
Your yeast must be healthy going in. Not just viable, but healthy. Ensure that your wort always has enough oxygen, ergosterol, medium chain fatty acids (MCFAs) zinc, amino acids and vitamins for the mother cells to produce healthy daughters and for all cells to have healthy membranes and intracellular reserves after fermentation has finished. For a 50hl batch, using British malt (low FAN compared to German and EEU and US malt) I found the sweet spot to be the following:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 20gm ZnSO4(7H20) for a total Zn2 &#039;&#039;supplementation&#039;&#039; of 2.5ppm&lt;br /&gt;
* 10kg medium thick spent yeast slurry (at ~30% solids) for MCFA, ergosterol and B vitamins. &lt;br /&gt;
* 333gm 2:1:1 BCAA mix of Leucine, Isoleucine and Valine (to reduce alpha-acetolactate synthesis)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Oxygen to 12ppm for &amp;lt;8% beers, 15ppm for 8-10% beers and lagers, up to 20ppm for stupidly big beers. For multiple batches into 1 FV, oxygenation is volume and time dependent: For 2 batches, oxygenate both the same, for 3-5 batches in under 24 hours, first 3 batches at 1x regular O2 levels (e.g. 12ppm) if doing 3, but if doing more, divide the O2 up among the first 3 batches then stop. Example: For 4 &amp;lt;8% brews, oxygenate the first 3 at 1.33x regular rate, or 16ppm. For 5 &amp;lt;8% brews, you could either add O2 normally to the first batch, and then supercharge the next two, or do 1.5x, 1.5x then 2x. For 5-10 batches it gets tricky. You can either add the total O2 required for the final total wort volume in the first 50% of brews, but you’ll lose a lot when it breaks out of solution into the headspace. A way around this is to oxygenate the first batch at regular level, then gradually increase the volume of O2 going into subsequent batches until you hit the total volume required. The theory being that the hydrostatic pressure and existing volume in the tank will provide enough back pressure and liquid volume for the O2 to dissolve into solution. I would never add oxygen after 20 hours for fear of flavour impact. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pitch 1 million live cells per ml per degree Plato of TOTAL WORT VOLUME (into the first batch if doing multiples) for &amp;lt;8% beer, 1.25-1.5 million/ml/degree P for bigger beers and lagers, up to 2million/ml for really big beers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Enough calcium for good flocculation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ramp up your nutrient management by getting wort analyses done and you can fine tune this further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== TEMPERATURE MANAGEMENT: ===&lt;br /&gt;
Manage your temperatures carefully. This is strain dependent, but as an example for WLP001/1056/US05 and many of the common strains:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* (Day 1) Pitch cold (17C for ales fermenting at 18C, 8C for lagers fermenting at 10C).&lt;br /&gt;
* (Day 2-3) At 50% attenuation, let the beer rise to 23C (for ales, for lagers go to 15-16C, Saisons… I’ve gone as high as 28C) and finish out. For anything over 7% ABV I tend to wait until 70% of attenuation so as not to create too many estery and phenolic notes.&lt;br /&gt;
* (Day 3-5) Once FG has stabilized and the pH has risen, put on 0.2barg of top pressure with inert gas, open the cooling on the top jacket(s) and drop the temp by 5C.&lt;br /&gt;
* As soon as the vessel is at 18C, turn off the top cooling and open the cooling to the Cone for at MOST 8 hours.&lt;br /&gt;
* (Day 4-6) Keep your top pressure on, and harvest and dump your yeast and take a sample for VDK testing (we used the forced diacetyl method until we got GC). The yeast in the cone isn’t doing anything for diacetyl reuptake, and there will still be plenty in suspension. If you’re worried, do a cell count. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== ​​(Day 4-7) DRYHOPPING, or recirculation is king (18C): ===&lt;br /&gt;
Setup: I had tanks specially made with tangential inlets at various points up the cylinder, but you can also recirculate by coming out of the total outlet and going up a stand pipe or movable racking arm. If the latter, angle the racking arm to about 135-150 degrees off horizontal. For regular T90s, I recommend beginning the recirculation in reverse, to mix the hops into suspension and prevent clogging your pump. Reversible or Star/Delta pumps are amazing for this. This isn’t as big an issue for Cryo. Anyway, get the pump spinning your beer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Release the top pressure on your tank and get your hops in using your normal method. As anoxic as possible, and get the inert top pressure back on your tanks.&lt;br /&gt;
* Let the pellets dissolve (takes about an hour for regular T90s, minutes for Cryo), then switch your recirculation back so it’s coming out of the total outlet and in the riser/racking arm/recirc ports. If you have to move hoses, and switch ports, use valved Ts in this situation so you can clean the set up in place and manoeuvre the setup hygienically.&lt;br /&gt;
* Recirculate your tank to keep the hops in suspension for 12 hours. You will see a temperature rise of about 2C. This is a good thing for hop oil absorption, yeast final fermentation and diacetyl uptake. We saw no positive flavour development after 12 hours, and tried recirculations (constant and staggered) all the way up to 48 hours. This method was tested against standard dryhopping (dumping in and let settle), and dump &amp;amp; bump roused dry hops.&lt;br /&gt;
* Shut off the pump, turn your cooling back on to bring the tank down to 18C, and let the hops settle (8-12 hours).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== (Days 4-14) CONDITIONING AND MATURATION: ===&lt;br /&gt;
Begin dumping your hops – dump as long as its fairly thick and you’re not wasting too much beer. Take your final VDK test. If it passes, continue on, if not, you may want to give it a wee bump with CO2 or other inert gas through the riser or racking arm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cool as you like. I’ve found no real benefit from staggering cooling for standard dryhopped ales, so I crash it straight to -1C after VDK pass if my cooling system can deal with it. YMMV. For best results, use the top jacket(s) until it hits the inversion state at 5C, then open them all. Its &#039;&#039;&#039;crucial&#039;&#039;&#039; that you keep your top pressure on during this phase to prevent sucking in air. If you’re using CO2 as a top gas, you’ll also get some nice carbonation developing. (If using finings, don’t cool past 6C until you’ve dosed them in and they had time to work.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Continue gradually removing the hops twice a day until you’re ready to spin/filter/fine/transfer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== EQUIPMENT &amp;amp; TRICKS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Some things that can speed up your day:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Inline carbonation can save many hours/days over top pressure and carbstones.&lt;br /&gt;
* Separators are great, but expensive. It may be worth it for yields and time savings. Do the ROI.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quick, sacrificial 5-10 second blasts of 2%NaOH spaced about 5-10 minutes apart can really get rid of the caked on krauesen in your tank faster than a regular caustic cycle. Start your CIP cycle with some caustic shots, then go on to your normal routine and you can sometimes shave 30 minutes or more off of a cleaning cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Hot Caustic (85C, 2% NaOH for 30 min), Rinse, ATP, PAA at appropriate level works just fine. You can use phosphoric if you want.&lt;br /&gt;
* You only need to &#039;&#039;&#039;clean&#039;&#039;&#039; a vessel if there is messy soiling. If your BBTs only held finished beer, you can easily get away with a low DO rinse (De-aerated liquor or water hotter than 82C) and sanitization via chemicals or temperature (hot DAL/water). This reduces cleaning time and consumption, and also reduces the amount of time spent purging the gas from the vessels and pressurizing them.&lt;br /&gt;
* Purge vessels from the bottom in bursts. This is vastly more time and gas efficient than a gradual purge over time, due to the inevitable mixing caused by the convection currents created by the incoming purge gas. Read up on the ideal gas law to understand why. Pressurize up to 0.5bar with CO2, then release all the pressure from the top outlet. &#039;&#039;&#039;WARNING:&#039;&#039;&#039; This is &#039;&#039;&#039;VERY&#039;&#039;&#039; loud. At minimum, everyone needs ear protection, and even better to have a sound muffler you can connect to the top outlet line. Takes about 3 blasts and dumps to get a 160bbl BBT to &amp;lt;15ppb O2 at the sprayball/top outlet, then a gentle pressurization up the bottom to 0.5bar brings it down below 7ppb (the lower resolution of the units we use to test this).&lt;br /&gt;
* Audit your process flow speeds. Look for delays and pinchpoints/bottlenecks. Some common ones I see are beer being held up in tank because it was taking too long to de-hop or de yeast. Installing a spent yeast tank and using pumps can really speed this up. As an example, we modified our waste setup so we could dump all the hops and trub down the drains into our sump, then the sump pumped over a run-down screen that filtered out solids, separating the liquid stream into the pH balancing and fine solids settling tank, and the solids slid down into skips. This saved a LOT of time for cellar peeps and also reduced manual handling. Another common issue is being unable to cool fast enough… maybe upgrade your chiller or change the glycol temperature? Packaging was slower than cellar capability… maybe another set of hands or another kegger would help you empty your tanks faster? Hell, the placement of raw material storage is a factor. Track how long it takes to walk over to your hop storage and get the hops, bring them back and add them to the tank for dryhopping. Consider pack size changes!&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Process]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Process&amp;diff=199</id>
		<title>Process</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Process&amp;diff=199"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:38:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Reducing Process Time (Cellar) ==&lt;br /&gt;
Here is my tried and true method for 14-day turnarounds (sometimes way less!) for everything except lagers:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;nowiki/&amp;gt;*Source: I am a former Senior Brewer, former Head of Cellar and former Sr NPD at BrewDog, former Director of Production and Operations at Magic Rock Brewing, current Director of Technical Solutions at YCH Hops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1) (Day 1) Wort nutrition and YEAST HEALTH ===&lt;br /&gt;
Your yeast must be healthy going in. Not just viable, but healthy. Ensure that your wort always has enough oxygen, ergosterol, medium chain fatty acids (MCFAs) zinc, amino acids and vitamins for the mother cells to produce healthy daughters and for all cells to have healthy membranes and intracellular reserves after fermentation has finished. For a 50hl batch, using British malt (low FAN compared to German and EEU and US malt) I found the sweet spot to be the following:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 20gm ZnSO4(7H20) for a total Zn2 &#039;&#039;supplementation&#039;&#039; of 2.5ppm&lt;br /&gt;
* 10kg medium thick spent yeast slurry (at ~30% solids) for MCFA, ergosterol and B vitamins. &lt;br /&gt;
* 333gm 2:1:1 BCAA mix of Leucine, Isoleucine and Valine (to reduce alpha-acetolactate synthesis)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Oxygen to 12ppm for &amp;lt;8% beers, 15ppm for 8-10% beers and lagers, up to 20ppm for stupidly big beers. For multiple batches into 1 FV, oxygenation is volume and time dependent: For 2 batches, oxygenate both the same, for 3-5 batches in under 24 hours, first 3 batches at 1x regular O2 levels (e.g. 12ppm) if doing 3, but if doing more, divide the O2 up among the first 3 batches then stop. Example: For 4 &amp;lt;8% brews, oxygenate the first 3 at 1.33x regular rate, or 16ppm. For 5 &amp;lt;8% brews, you could either add O2 normally to the first batch, and then supercharge the next two, or do 1.5x, 1.5x then 2x. For 5-10 batches it gets tricky. You can either add the total O2 required for the final total wort volume in the first 50% of brews, but you’ll lose a lot when it breaks out of solution into the headspace. A way around this is to oxygenate the first batch at regular level, then gradually increase the volume of O2 going into subsequent batches until you hit the total volume required. The theory being that the hydrostatic pressure and existing volume in the tank will provide enough back pressure and liquid volume for the O2 to dissolve into solution. I would never add oxygen after 20 hours for fear of flavour impact. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pitch 1 million live cells per ml per degree Plato of TOTAL WORT VOLUME (into the first batch if doing multiples) for &amp;lt;8% beer, 1.25-1.5 million/ml/degree P for bigger beers and lagers, up to 2million/ml for really big beers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Enough calcium for good flocculation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ramp up your nutrient management by getting wort analyses done and you can fine tune this further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2) TEMPERATURE MANAGEMENT: ===&lt;br /&gt;
Manage your temperatures carefully. This is strain dependent, but as an example for WLP001/1056/US05 and many of the common strains:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* (Day 1) Pitch cold (17C for ales fermenting at 18C, 8C for lagers fermenting at 10C).&lt;br /&gt;
* (Day 2-3) At 50% attenuation, let the beer rise to 23C (for ales, for lagers go to 15-16C, Saisons… I’ve gone as high as 28C) and finish out. For anything over 7% ABV I tend to wait until 70% of attenuation so as not to create too many estery and phenolic notes.&lt;br /&gt;
* (Day 3-5) Once FG has stabilized and the pH has risen, put on 0.2barg of top pressure with inert gas, open the cooling on the top jacket(s) and drop the temp by 5C.&lt;br /&gt;
* As soon as the vessel is at 18C, turn off the top cooling and open the cooling to the Cone for at MOST 8 hours.&lt;br /&gt;
* (Day 4-6) Keep your top pressure on, and harvest and dump your yeast and take a sample for VDK testing (we used the forced diacetyl method until we got GC). The yeast in the cone isn’t doing anything for diacetyl reuptake, and there will still be plenty in suspension. If you’re worried, do a cell count. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== ​​3) (Day 4-7) DRYHOPPING, or recirculation is king (18C): ===&lt;br /&gt;
Setup: I had tanks specially made with tangential inlets at various points up the cylinder, but you can also recirculate by coming out of the total outlet and going up a stand pipe or movable racking arm. If the latter, angle the racking arm to about 135-150 degrees off horizontal. For regular T90s, I recommend beginning the recirculation in reverse, to mix the hops into suspension and prevent clogging your pump. Reversible or Star/Delta pumps are amazing for this. This isn’t as big an issue for Cryo. Anyway, get the pump spinning your beer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Release the top pressure on your tank and get your hops in using your normal method. As anoxic as possible, and get the inert top pressure back on your tanks.&lt;br /&gt;
* Let the pellets dissolve (takes about an hour for regular T90s, minutes for Cryo), then switch your recirculation back so it’s coming out of the total outlet and in the riser/racking arm/recirc ports. If you have to move hoses, and switch ports, use valved Ts in this situation so you can clean the set up in place and manoeuvre the setup hygienically.&lt;br /&gt;
* Recirculate your tank to keep the hops in suspension for 12 hours. You will see a temperature rise of about 2C. This is a good thing for hop oil absorption, yeast final fermentation and diacetyl uptake. We saw no positive flavour development after 12 hours, and tried recirculations (constant and staggered) all the way up to 48 hours. This method was tested against standard dryhopping (dumping in and let settle), and dump &amp;amp; bump roused dry hops.&lt;br /&gt;
* Shut off the pump, turn your cooling back on to bring the tank down to 18C, and let the hops settle (8-12 hours).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 4) (Days 4-14) CONDITIONING AND MATURATION: ===&lt;br /&gt;
Begin dumping your hops – dump as long as its fairly thick and you’re not wasting too much beer. Take your final VDK test. If it passes, continue on, if not, you may want to give it a wee bump with CO2 or other inert gas through the riser or racking arm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cool as you like. I’ve found no real benefit from staggering cooling for standard dryhopped ales, so I crash it straight to -1C after VDK pass if my cooling system can deal with it. YMMV. For best results, use the top jacket(s) until it hits the inversion state at 5C, then open them all. Its &#039;&#039;&#039;crucial&#039;&#039;&#039; that you keep your top pressure on during this phase to prevent sucking in air. If you’re using CO2 as a top gas, you’ll also get some nice carbonation developing. (If using finings, don’t cool past 6C until you’ve dosed them in and they had time to work.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Continue gradually removing the hops twice a day until you’re ready to spin/filter/fine/transfer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 5) EQUIPMENT &amp;amp; TRICKS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Some things that can speed up your day:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Inline carbonation can save many hours/days over top pressure and carbstones.&lt;br /&gt;
* Separators are great, but expensive. It may be worth it for yields and time savings. Do the ROI.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quick, sacrificial 5-10 second blasts of 2%NaOH spaced about 5-10 minutes apart can really get rid of the caked on krauesen in your tank faster than a regular caustic cycle. Start your CIP cycle with some caustic shots, then go on to your normal routine and you can sometimes shave 30 minutes or more off of a cleaning cycle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Hot Caustic (85C, 2% NaOH for 30 min), Rinse, ATP, PAA at appropriate level works just fine. You can use phosphoric if you want.&lt;br /&gt;
* You only need to &#039;&#039;&#039;clean&#039;&#039;&#039; a vessel if there is messy soiling. If your BBTs only held finished beer, you can easily get away with a low DO rinse (De-aerated liquor or water hotter than 82C) and sanitization via chemicals or temperature (hot DAL/water). This reduces cleaning time and consumption, and also reduces the amount of time spent purging the gas from the vessels and pressurizing them.&lt;br /&gt;
* Purge vessels from the bottom in bursts. This is vastly more time and gas efficient than a gradual purge over time, due to the inevitable mixing caused by the convection currents created by the incoming purge gas. Read up on the ideal gas law to understand why. Pressurize up to 0.5bar with CO2, then release all the pressure from the top outlet. &#039;&#039;&#039;WARNING:&#039;&#039;&#039; This is &#039;&#039;&#039;VERY&#039;&#039;&#039; loud. At minimum, everyone needs ear protection, and even better to have a sound muffler you can connect to the top outlet line. Takes about 3 blasts and dumps to get a 160bbl BBT to &amp;lt;15ppb O2 at the sprayball/top outlet, then a gentle pressurization up the bottom to 0.5bar brings it down below 7ppb (the lower resolution of the units we use to test this).&lt;br /&gt;
* Audit your process flow speeds. Look for delays and pinchpoints/bottlenecks. Some common ones I see are beer being held up in tank because it was taking too long to de-hop or de yeast. Installing a spent yeast tank and using pumps can really speed this up. As an example, we modified our waste setup so we could dump all the hops and trub down the drains into our sump, then the sump pumped over a run-down screen that filtered out solids, separating the liquid stream into the pH balancing and fine solids settling tank, and the solids slid down into skips. This saved a LOT of time for cellar peeps and also reduced manual handling. Another common issue is being unable to cool fast enough… maybe upgrade your chiller or change the glycol temperature? Packaging was slower than cellar capability… maybe another set of hands or another kegger would help you empty your tanks faster? Hell, the placement of raw material storage is a factor. Track how long it takes to walk over to your hop storage and get the hops, bring them back and add them to the tank for dryhopping. Consider pack size changes!&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Process]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=PH&amp;diff=198</id>
		<title>PH</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=PH&amp;diff=198"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:38:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category:Water]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Braukaiser ==&lt;br /&gt;
In mashing we tend to target the mash pH to optimize the effectiveness of the most important mash enzymes: the amylases which convert starch into sugar. In room temperature tests the pH optima for alpha amylase has been found at 5.3 and for the beta amylase it is between 5.1 and 5.3 [Briggs, 2004] (see pH and brewing water in Starch Conversion). But when their activity is evaluated at mashing temperatures and the pH of a cooled mash sample is measured it shows their pH optima at 5.7 and 5.4-5.6 respectively. This is the result of a pH shift in the mash that takes place when the mash is heated. In addition to that, the pH optimum of the enzyme is likely to shift as well. As a result, at common starch conversion temperatures (65C/150F) the pH of the mash appears 0.35 units lower than that of a room temperature mash sample [Briggs, 2004]. This needs to be taken into account when looking at pH optima for various mash enzymes. Most commonly, however, the pH optima that are reported in the literature were determined by testing cooled mash samples. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A commonly accepted optimal range for mash pH is 5.2 - 5.7 with 5.5 being optimal for starch conversion activity but many authors report wort and beer quality benefits if the pH is lowered into the 5.2 - 5.4 range [Kunze, 2007][Narziss, 2005]. Kunze in particular lists the following benefits for a mash pH as low as 5.2. Since it is a good and fairly comprehensive list I cited it here. Some of these benefits listed will be explained in the following sections [Kunze, 2007]:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The enzymatic activity in the mash is increased as all important enzymes get activated. (except for alpha amylase which starts to suffer at a pH below 5.6)&lt;br /&gt;
* More zinc, an essential yeast nutrient, goes into solution&lt;br /&gt;
* The extract yield (efficiency) is improved&lt;br /&gt;
* The protein coagulation and precipitation is improved (improved break formation)&lt;br /&gt;
* The redox potential is improved which results in a lower susceptibility to oxygen.&lt;br /&gt;
* The run-off speed is improved&lt;br /&gt;
* The color increase during the wort boil is reduced&lt;br /&gt;
* Better trub precipitation and faster pH drop lead to faster fermentation and greater attenuation of the beer.&lt;br /&gt;
* Lover viscosity improves filterability&lt;br /&gt;
* The taste of the beer is more rounded, fuller and softer. The beer is crisper, more fresh and shows more character.&lt;br /&gt;
* The hop bitterness is more pleasant and doesn&#039;t linger&lt;br /&gt;
* The foam is more stable and denser&lt;br /&gt;
* The color of the beer is lighter&lt;br /&gt;
* Mash oxidation is reduced since the main culprit, the lipoxigenase enzyme, doesn&#039;t work well at low mash pH conditions&lt;br /&gt;
* Haze stability is improved&lt;br /&gt;
* Beer digestion is stimulated. This is a positive effect of the lactic acid&lt;br /&gt;
* Susceptibility to microbial spoilage is reduced through&lt;br /&gt;
* Lower beer pH: beer spoilage organism don&#039;t grow below a pH of 4.4&lt;br /&gt;
* Higher attenuation&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Even a pH between 5.2-5.4 is already suboptimal for mashes with large amounts of enzymatic weak malts like Munich type malts. Those mashes are better done with a mash pH above 5.4 which will be closer to the pH optimum of the alpha amylase enzyme. In addition to that, when decoction mashing is used the mash pH should not be lower than 5.4 [Kunze, 2007]. While Kunze doesn&#039;t give a reason I assume that it is because boiling of the decoctions lowers their pH which may lead to too low of a mash pH for the already enzymatically weakened decoction mash. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
While the targeted mash pH is generally not determined by enzymes other than the amylase enzymes it also has an effect on other enzymes which may be considered in certain mashing schedules.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a ferulic acid rest is held at 35-40C (95-105F) the release of ferulic acid is reduced if the pH is below 5.7 [Narziss, 2005]. Because of that it is advisable to add any acidulated malt, which may be part of the grist for pH correction, after that rest has been completed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/How_pH_affects_brewing]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Electric Brewery ==  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In brewing, &#039;residual alkalinity&#039; (RA) is actually what we care about (indirectly) as adding grain and salts will already lower the alkalinity and the buffering power we&#039;re left with is called the &#039;residual&#039; alkalinity. Some books and articles will insist that RA is the most important water parameter when it comes to brewing. They will tell you to target a specific RA for the colour of beer you want to produce. The usual recommendation is that a low RA is best for lighter coloured beers, and higher is better for darker beers. The calculations are complicated and often calculators or nomographs (a type of fancy 2D diagram) are provided. Worrying about RA however is backwards, as &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;RA is not something we target&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;. What matters are the salts (for adjusting the flavour) and the mash pH (for proper starch to sugar conversion). If we do not achieve a proper mash pH after we&#039;ve added our flavour salts, we simply add some acid to lower the mash pH into the proper range (more on this in a later step). The amount of acid required is usually minimal as we know the water cannot have been highly alkaline (hard), as otherwise we would have not have been able to hit our mineral targets in the first place as some of our starting water mineral levels would have been very high. Highly alkaline water is full of minerals and usually needs to be cut with RO or distilled water first in order to hit our mineral targets &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;before&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; we even begin to worry about mash pH.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
…..&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If desired, after allowing a few minutes for the salts to dissolve and mix in the boil, take a sample and measure the wort pH using the &#039;&#039;&#039;pH meter&#039;&#039;&#039;. It should be around 5.0 to 5.5 (measured at mash temperature). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/water-adjustment]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Setting the Record Straight on Mash pH - BYO == &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Bamforth’s range is: 5.3 to 5.8 (mashtemp) / 5.55 to 6.05 (room temp)&lt;br /&gt;
* Briggs’ range is: 5.2 to 5.4 (mash temp) / 5.45 to 5.65 (room temp)&lt;br /&gt;
* Kunze’s range is: 5.25 to 5.35 (mash temp) / 5.5 to 5.6 (room temp)&lt;br /&gt;
* Lewis’ statement: 5.2 to 5.5 (mash temp) / 5.45 to 5.75 (room temp)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Kunze temperature reference is anecdotal because his textbook does not reference temperature, and Palmer bases his temperature reference on a conversation he had with Dr. Ludwig Narziss (Weihenstephan Center of Life and Food Science’s former head of brewing science for over 40 years).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When I look at these data, I see two things. The first is that there seems to be a “lost in translation” effect in play, where one camp is arguing a moot point against the opposing camp because of the difference in reference temperature. The second thing is that these ranges are all pretty similar.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Palmer discusses mash pH and beer flavor in his presentation, and distinguishes between optimal pH ranges for extract yield/enzymatic activity and optimal pH ranges for beer flavor. As it turns out the two brewing objectives are not always satisfied by the same mash pH. Go figure! That is another discussion for another day. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://byo.com/mr-wizard/setting-record-straight-mash-ph/]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== PH Raise from hops ==&lt;br /&gt;
Calculate how many pounds per barrel your dry hop load is, t90 pellets usually sit around a .1-.15ph increase per lb/bl. Take a ph reading before hand, say you’re at 4.2 and you’re dry hopping with 2lbs:bbl, you can usually expect to finish around 4.4-4.5. We use lactic acid to adjust PH cold side, and it’s usually around 100ml of lactic to counteract .1ph increase from dry hopping, but I’m sure that would vary depending on suppliers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== pH in Mash Tun and Kettle ==&lt;br /&gt;
pH: Also, here&#039;s information from a slide of a PowerPoint on Pilsner production (The Brewing of Pilsner Beers by Alan Taylor Braumeister, VLB Widmer Brothers Brewing Co.) that I found useful:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
· &#039;&#039;&#039;Target in Mash Tun: 5.4 to 5.6&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a compromise between the optimal pH ranges for glucanase (5.0) protease (4.5 to 4.7) and amylase (5.1 to 5.8) enzymes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reduces: Wort and beer viscosity,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increases: Wort color increase, Conversion time, Lautering time, Foam stability, Flavor stability.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Brewhouse efficiency, Attenuation, Perceived hop flavor quality. Fermentation and lagering time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
· &#039;&#039;&#039;Target in Kettle: 5.1 to 5.2&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Reduces: Alpha acid isomerization, resulting in a &amp;quot;smoother bitterness. Wort color increase during boiling Possibility of microbiological infection&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increases: Polyphenol-protein trub formation, which leads to better hot and cold breaks&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hope it helps!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Just to be clear. You are talking pH at 68F?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Correct&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Enzymes ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Enzymes and pH.png|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
Very lightly kilned malts contain the enzyme phytase which is able to release phosphate from phytin present in the malt [deLange, 2004]. That release of phosphate serves to lower the mash pH during the so called acid rest. It not only lowers the mash pH, it also increases the buffer capacity of the mash. This increased buffer capacity may make it later more difficult for the yeast to lower the beer pH [Kolbach, 1953]. The enzyme has a pH optimum of about 5.0 which is the reason for increased buffer capacity of worts produced from lightly kilned malts (e.g. Pilsner malt) with lower pH mashes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The β-glucanase, which is most active between 40 and 50 C (104 – 122 F) and degrades beta β-glucanes, likes it a little more acidic. It’s pH optimum is between 4.7 and 5.0.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
High mash pH also favors the release of colored malt compounds into the mash [Lewis&amp;amp;Bamforth, 2006]. This is yet another reason why it is beneficial to mash lighter beers at the lower end of the optimal mash pH range &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== conclusion ====&lt;br /&gt;
A number of enzymes are active in the mash and many of them have different pH optima which makes it sometimes confusing to choose the proper mash pH. To reduce that confusion, here are some simple guidelines that can be followed when determining which mash pH should be targeted or deciding if the current mash pH needs adjustment:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Mash pH numbers are given for room temperature (20-25 C/ 70-80 F) mash samples&lt;br /&gt;
* Any mash pH between 5.3 and 5.8 should be sufficient for most mashes&lt;br /&gt;
* A mash pH between 5.2 and 5.5 is well suited for infusion mashes with enzymatic strong malts&lt;br /&gt;
* A mash pH above 5.4 should be used for decoction mashes and/or enzymatic weak mashes (i.e. large amounts of Munich malt or adjuncts)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Clarity and pH ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Protein coagulation ===&lt;br /&gt;
The iso-electric point of wort proteins is around 4.9 [BrewingTechniques, 1993]. But a common boil pH of 5.2 – 5.4 (room temperature sample) does not reach a pH that low and therefore the protein coagulation is not as good as it could be [Narziss, 2005]. While it is possible to lower the boil pH through the addition of acids, it is generally not done because the level of protein coagulation that is achieved at a pH of 5.2 is sufficient and reduction of the boil pH further reduces the hop alpha acid utilization.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Clarity and Calcium ==&lt;br /&gt;
Is your water high in calcium? Also remember CaCl increases.... calcium. Calcium causes clarification  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Optimal pH ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Best Mash pH ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 5.3-5.5 for pake beers&lt;br /&gt;
* 5.4-5.6 is good for less body. best for beta&lt;br /&gt;
* 5.6-5.8 for more body. best for alpha&lt;br /&gt;
* stay below 5.6-5.8 during sparge to avoid tannins&lt;br /&gt;
* 5.2-5.4 is best in the boil. Proteins coagulate and there’s more haze stability&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Knockout pH - Reddit ===&lt;br /&gt;
What’s every body’s idea KO Ph? I usually shoot for 5.2 on lagers and 5 ish on clear hop forward styles, and 4.6-4.7 on hazies (I have found a much more stable haze at this ph with a little more punch to hop flavor, and no I have no science to show why, just my experience). As crispy boi season arrives, I have been especially wondering if any one starts ferment lower for a crispier crispy boi.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* our numbers are super close to yours, we go a little lower on our light lager, around 5.0 or 4.9 sometimes. i think the science behind knocking out sub 5.0ph on hazy/hoppy beer (we do this for our house IPA that is clear) is lowering the PH at knockout helps that initial PH drop that comes with fermentation. for instance if we knock out a beer at 4.7ph, after we pitch yeast I see our first drop of PH when fermentation begins go down as low as 4.2ph. once we start dry hopping that beer we see the final PH hover closer to 4.5 or 4.6, leaving a nice citrusy hop characteristic- it’s when we get final PHs in the 4.7, 4.8+ range after a healthy dry hop that the beer begins to taste vegetal and herbal.&lt;br /&gt;
* 5.0 on hazies, 5.1-5.2 on wc IPA&#039;s, 5.2-5.3 on lagers/Pilsners.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Diaceytl ==&lt;br /&gt;
MBAA 217: 2:15 Mark. pH under 4.5 cleans Diacetyl quicker&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Oxygen&amp;diff=197</id>
		<title>Oxygen</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Oxygen&amp;diff=197"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:37:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Wort Oxygen ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The Mad Fermentationis&#039;&#039;&#039;t (Reddit) At the brewery we have one and it worked out to &#039;&#039;&#039;25 min at 1.5 L/min to get 20 PPM in 310 gallons of bee&#039;&#039;&#039;r (about the same either in-line or directly into the tank).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Nose Goblin&#039;&#039;&#039; Double IPA: I target 16 ppm of dissolved oxygen (DO). That takes about &#039;&#039;&#039;3 liters per minute&#039;&#039;&#039; (LPM) on our system.        &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Oxygen.png|frameless|500x500px]]  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Process]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
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	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Mash&amp;diff=196</id>
		<title>Mash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Mash&amp;diff=196"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:36:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Improving Efficiency ==&lt;br /&gt;
Podcast: Improving Brewhouse Efficiency by Adjusting Mash Thickness and Lauter and Sparge Volumes &amp;quot;Our friends from Saint Arnold Brewing Company in Houston describe how they reduced lauter times, decreased their grain bills by 5%, and increased average brewhouse efficiency from 89.3% to 95.5%.&amp;quot;  [https://www.masterbrewerspodcast.com/044]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Temps ==&lt;br /&gt;
Usually we mash in at about 60-63 C. We can start as low as we need for different mashes though. For stuff with raw wheat, flaked ingredients, oats etc. we may start at 55C and hold for 15-30 minutes for a protein rest. For most beers, we deal with:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 63 “simple sugar” rest. Up to 1 hour to get as much mono and disaccharide as possible in the wort.&lt;br /&gt;
* 68 theoretically fastest time to conversion. Balances alpha and beta amylase timing. For us, this rest is 30 min max.&lt;br /&gt;
* 73 saccharification rest convert anything remaining to fermentables, 15- 25 minutes or until iodine check.&lt;br /&gt;
* 78 mash out, destroys enzymes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use these points as levers to adjust your FG. If you want dry, you stay lower (63-68) for longer. If you want some more residual sugar, you go to the higher end (73) quicker so you don’t get as much simple sugars. Our water to malt ratio is from 2.75:1- 4:1 depending on the recipe. This will also affect how quickly you convert your sugars. Thicker mash goes slower than thinner.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Mash in at 62-65 depending on the current gelatinization temperature Rest for 45 minutes. Step up to 72. Rest for 15 minutes.  Step up to 76 because I want to keep some residual enzymes active to take care of residual starch but still reduce viscosity and then pump over to lauter tun.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Mash Steps.png|frameless|657x657px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Steps ==&lt;br /&gt;
Protein Rest: If the malt has too much protein or not enough FAN, I&#039;ll throw in a protein rest.  If the beta glucans are too high, I&#039;ll mash in at 40 and rest there for 20 minutes.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Wayfinder:&#039;&#039;&#039; He like multi infusion. If you do single infusion you are breaking into sugars but you are leaving longer chain b-dextrins that could be broken down into more maltose. The more maltose you make the better the yeast health.  Maltose is healthy food, glucose and fructose are like desserts. If you give yeasts lots of the desserts they won&#039;t eat the healthy food and they’ll pass out early. &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;small&amp;gt;CBB Podacast # 175 Kevin Davey– Wayfinder&amp;lt;/small&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Decoction ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Firestone Walker ===&lt;br /&gt;
Direct Fire: Decoctions &amp;amp; Adjuncts: CBB Firestone Walker&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
we actually mash in [for] a protein rest at 122°F (50°C). One, you get to take advantage of proteolytic enzyme activity. There may be some other enzyme activity that’s at work there, but it also allows you the ability to get all in below [saccharification] temperature, and then ramp up and control your complete conversion program—whatever that might be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most of the lager we brew these days—even our Oaktoberfest—we want to be pretty dry. And often we’re mashing for maximum fermentability or attenuation. So, we would then ramp up to 145°F (63°C) in our program, and we would adjust the timing there. For Pivo, [for example,] we’re standing at about 45 minutes. And then I like to ramp up to some place north of 155°F (68°C), so that we can finish conversion. What we find with some of the European pilsner malts is that they like an even higher temperature—something closer to 162°F (72°C). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
…&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So, we always do step mashes. We’ve integrated this protein [rest] in just about every one of the lagers we do. I think you could legitimately argue that there isn’t a lot of need for a protein rest, especially with modern malts, and that quite possibly you’re doing a little bit of damage to foam-positive proteins. However, it’s always worked for us, and we’ve been able to make these really lean and elegant lager beers that way. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Human Robot Hallertrau pils decocotion ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Mash in at 62, hold for about 20 minutes (sometimes as low as 5 minutes)&lt;br /&gt;
* Pull half to the kettle and raise to 72, hold for 15 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
* Boil that for 20 minutes. Take half of that and add it to the lauter, that will raise it to 70-72&lt;br /&gt;
* Boil the rest for another 20 minutes. It will bring the lauter up to 76-78&lt;br /&gt;
* The longer decoction will add more aroma (some beers they decocot for a lot shorter if they are looking only for mouthfeel)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Dovetail? Alagast? I forgot the podcast ===&lt;br /&gt;
* Kolsch - step mash (little wheat)&lt;br /&gt;
* Helles - single decoction - thin mash &lt;br /&gt;
* Pilsner - triple decoction  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Grains]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
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	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Main_Page&amp;diff=195</id>
		<title>Main Page</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Main_Page&amp;diff=195"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:31:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Special:Categories]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Special:AllPages]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Consult the [[mediawikiwiki:Special:MyLanguage/Help:Contents|User&#039;s Guide]] for information on using the wiki software.&lt;br /&gt;
== Getting started ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Configuration_settings Configuration settings list]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:FAQ MediaWiki FAQ]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://lists.wikimedia.org/postorius/lists/mediawiki-announce.lists.wikimedia.org/ MediaWiki release mailing list]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Localisation#Translation_resources Localise MediaWiki for your language]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Special:MyLanguage/Manual:Combating_spam Learn how to combat spam on your wiki]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
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	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Lager&amp;diff=194</id>
		<title>Lager</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.malakagawa.work/index.php?title=Lager&amp;diff=194"/>
		<updated>2025-09-11T05:31:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;NomoAdmin: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Human Robot ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Hallertrau pils decocotion method ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Mash in at 62, hold for about 20 minutes (sometimes as low as 5 minutes) &lt;br /&gt;
* Pull half to the kettle and raise to 72, hold for 15 minutes&lt;br /&gt;
* Boil that for 20 minutes. Take half of that and add it to the lauter, that will raise it to 70-72&lt;br /&gt;
* Boil the rest for another 20 minutes. It will bring the lauter up to 76-78&lt;br /&gt;
* The longer decoction will add more aroma (some beers they decocot for a lot shorter if they are looking only for mouthfeel)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Czech 10 ===&lt;br /&gt;
* knockout at 5.5c, sit for 24 hours. Then set the temp at 10c, takes about 3 days to get to 10. &lt;br /&gt;
* when it hits 10 its usually at 6.5p and they spund starting there. &lt;br /&gt;
* Then they start slowly reducing the temp back to 5.5c. Usually they hit FG at 7 days and its usually 6.5c.&lt;br /&gt;
** If its sluggish they leave it there, if its fermenting strong they keep stepping it down. &lt;br /&gt;
* Then they leave it at 5c for 3 weeks. &lt;br /&gt;
* Hard crash to 0 and package less than a week later. (they just basically drop everything, transfer to BT and  package)   &lt;br /&gt;
* 4-5 weeks grain to glass. They use clarex in the FV but that’s it for this beer (they use biofine on the hallertau pils). &lt;br /&gt;
* Most big Czech breweries don’t do the big vd rest. They condition at 5c because it gives you a long window to see when the flavor is perfect (sulfur balance, etc…) If the beer is fermented warmer you miss the window too quickly. In Czech the cold rooms are 5c and it takes weeks for the beers to cool down to that temp so he’s trying to mimic that. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Hallertau Pils - ===&lt;br /&gt;
* knock out at 7.5c, sit for 24 hours. Set temp to 9 and let it ferment to 7p. &lt;br /&gt;
* Cap it at that point to 15psi cause it goes to a higher temp. &lt;br /&gt;
* let it go up to 12c let it ferment out. (blows off more sulfur earlier and knocks out vd earlier).  &lt;br /&gt;
* Main fermentation is about 6 days. &lt;br /&gt;
* Sit at 12 about 2 weeks, then hard crash to 0, sit for about a week and package. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== misc ===&lt;br /&gt;
Adds about 1kg of hops to the mash when boiling the decoction. Not a huge difference but adds a layer. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
They have 3 fermentation profiles  (use 34/70 for everything):&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For stronger beers - KO 7.5, set to 9, leave until about day 21, cold condition a week or two and then package&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Czech approach is more rustic profile, pils approach is cleaner with a touch of sulfur, other is somewhere in the middle. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cold knock out is more important than decoction because the yeast won’t triple and get yeasty flavors.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In Europe long rests at 0 aren’t the norm. In the US we use it as a substitute for filtering (which is valid) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== From article CBB recipe “Recipe: Human Robot Polotmavy 12°”.. ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* For decoction: A 3:1 water-grain ratio is a good place to start. &lt;br /&gt;
* Target a mash pH of 5.2–5.4; we use lactic acid to adjust. &lt;br /&gt;
* If you need to use American or German pils malt instead of floor-malted, shorten the first mash rest to 10 minutes.  &lt;br /&gt;
* After the boil, chill to about 43°F (6°C), aerate the wort, and pitch the yeast. &lt;br /&gt;
* Ferment at 43°F (6°C), allowing a rise to 48–51°F (9–10.5°C) as fermentation peaks. &lt;br /&gt;
* If you have a spunding valve, attach it and set to 12–13 psi, conditioning at 39–41°F (4–5°C) for about 3 weeks—by that point, the beer should be fully carbonated and free of diacetyl. &lt;br /&gt;
* Crash to 32°F (0°C) for a few days  &#039;&#039;(says the same on the podcast)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Fast Lager ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Rules to a Faster Lager - How to Stop Worrying &amp;amp; Lager—Drew Beechum&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I’ve used a variant of the following schedule for years with a number of lager strains. If this is your first time, I’d suggest using Fermentis SafLager W-34/70. It might be both the most used and most forgiving lager strain in the world. In fact, the strain makes decent beers at ale temperatures (though I feel that they lack a certain lagery crispness).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Brew beer as normal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* When chilling, make sure you get the wort to pitching temperature (about 50°F/10°C) before adding the yeast. (I find this reduces ester production.).&lt;br /&gt;
* Pitch the yeast at 50°F (10°C) and ferment for three days.&lt;br /&gt;
* Raise the temperature to 55°F (13°C) and ferment for three more days.&lt;br /&gt;
* Raise the temperature to 60°F (16°C); ferment two more days.&lt;br /&gt;
* Raise the temperature to 65°F (18°C); ferment two more days.&lt;br /&gt;
* Check the beer’s gravity and, if ready, proceed to packaging. If not, allow to sit two more days and check again. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Salted Lager ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Lager with salt - R&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* I brewed a Mexican lager with sea salt and lime that was a huge hit this year. .5 pounds in 5.5 barrels. It was evident but not overwhelming.&lt;br /&gt;
* 4lbs sea salt for a 30bbl batch on a Mexican lager. Seems to be the sweet spot for us.&lt;br /&gt;
* Try 2lb salt .5lb msg and adjust mash pH a little higher, I think you&#039;ll get more of what your looking for and higher repeat orders&lt;br /&gt;
* I use 3/4# pink sea salt in a 3.5 bbl batch. I just dissolve it in some hot liquor and put it in the brite tank before transferring. My batch yield is usually around 100 gallons +/- 2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Amount of salt for a salt lime lager - R&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 65g/bbl of sea salt in a light lager is where we start. You can add what you think after, but you can&#039;t take it back.&lt;br /&gt;
* 72g/bbl in a light lager&lt;br /&gt;
* I usually do 0.5g/L for a noticeable but you&#039;d never say it was salty&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:German]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Styles]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Lager]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>NomoAdmin</name></author>
	</entry>
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